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Old 05-15-2014, 10:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I use paper model techniques with 4mm Coroplast for my bike fairings. I make a lap joint and use nylon zip ties to attach the pieces.

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Old 05-16-2014, 12:52 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Basically any plastic can be thermoformed.
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Old 05-16-2014, 03:18 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Basically any plastic can be thermoformed.
Yes, but how do you maintain the fluting?
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Old 05-16-2014, 04:10 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Basically any plastic can be thermoformed.
Not thermosets.
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Old 05-16-2014, 07:58 AM   #15 (permalink)
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The fluting tends to collapse. You can only do a 2D bend, conical or cylindrical. I heat the outside and bend with the grain. This way the compression side does no buckle as easy. Time also works, I have a full sheet curving in the garage with weights on it since winter. I move them down a little at a time.
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:05 AM   #16 (permalink)
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You can do compound curves. I did it on fender skirts.
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Old 05-16-2014, 02:10 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Show me.

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You can do compound curves. I did it on fender skirts.
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Old 05-16-2014, 02:34 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The dog ate my homework?

Seriously, my camera was stolen a week ago and I haven't replaced it yet.

Think about it though- when the concave side is heated it gets all wrinkly in both directions thus allowing compound curvature. It ain't pretty, but coro never is.
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Old 05-16-2014, 05:12 PM   #19 (permalink)
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The lower edge of the picture I posted qualifies as 3D, but it was accidental or incidental.

Planning a purposeful 3D shape to an exacting shape with any precision will be a challenge, but I suppose it can be done.

It will not be pretty as others have pointed out.

In any case it's best to remember this material has some memory, so you want to over curve as it tends to spread back out while cooling/hardening.

If anyone can suggest a glue or caulk/sealant for the joints I for one would appreciate it.
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Old 05-17-2014, 09:15 AM   #20 (permalink)
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