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Old 12-03-2020, 07:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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DIY Murphy bed and desk

I put in another loft bed and had my mattress on the floor until I could make the frame sturdy enough. I threw out my back on Friday and didn't want to wake up with a stiff back and fall off the ladder.

I flipped my mattress out of the way and figured that it was so easy I should build a Murphy bed under my loft, which I will use for storage once it is adequately stable.

People apparently pay $1,000 - $4,000 for commercial loft beds and many make their own for $1,000 - $1,500 using a commercial hardware kit with hinges, gas struts, and one leg that you fold over when you put the bed away.

Some people claim they made their own between $100 and $250, but those are often plain wooden boxes with visible legs.

Or this weird trend, fixed legs that look like one or two shallow shelves. You can put a few decorations on them, but not too many, because you need to take them down to actually use the bed.

Or make the top of each shelf out of sheet metal, perhaps with laminate over them, put magnets on the bottoms of your decorations, and they stay put!


That desk is pretty useless, too, but I am always thinking about leg room.

I think that it is as wide as the leg shelf.

I had not noticed those drawers! What are they good for?!

Ha!

Absolutely nothing!

It seems like nobody puts a back on it, just one board to screw to the wall; it looks weird to me to see the bare wall.

I also think that it is Pinterest nonsense to put shelves next to the bed.

I have zero decorations in my room, nor space for them. I would put in normal-sized drawers with shelves behind doors on top.

Or a loft with storage...

Some people build Murphy beds between Ikea shelves and\or in an Ikea cabinet, but I see zero reason to believe that you can buy an adequate cabinet for $100 like one person claimed.

One project build included $600 in Ikea cabinets and totaled $1,500.

I have seen some with shelves that move out of the way, but this is the first one with normal shelves, although it never seems like you can access all of the storage with the bed out:


The first designs used boat seat swivels. One said they were $7 and another said $10, but Amazon says $14.17.

Ah. This one. I actually got my hopes up and thought this was a vaguely-similar, but actually good one.

No, it is the one that I hate!
He made a good frame, but PVC legs, and then tied it to the wall.

Clearly I didn't look at the thumbnail.

Someone suggested using Lazy Susan bearings. They are similar to boat seat swivels, but slimmer. This one is $10.72 on Amazon.

Many people use hinges. I have seen as few as two hinges, 4 or 5, and piano hinges.

I like this one, although those legs are weird. Yes, like all of the other ones, gravity pulls them down, but they look too easy to bump.
I have seen different designs to lock the legs into place. Maybe you need to pay extra for leg locks.

The thing is, this was $3,800 when it was in-stock!

You just have a redheaded stepchild unscrew these legs [that apostrophe doesn't belong there]:


I like the table, but I still think that it should be bigger

Right. Build a base with 2x4s, build a box over it, and I cannot see the hardware, but it looks like it pivots a few inches from the back, so the top of the box hangs over the bed.

The platform may be plywood with 1x2s around the edge, 1x2s supporting the mattress, straps holding the mattress in place, and... is that a weird headboard?

It looks like the table pivots under the back edge. That is nice-looking hardware, but I think that piano hinges would work for both the table and the bed.

Did I miss anything?

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Old 12-04-2020, 04:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I think that I hate this video as much as the other one. It has aggravating music, but she keeps talking, so I cannot just mute it. She uses doorstops as legs, which don't seem like they would hold, and they are not quite long enough. Instead of installing one or more slide bolts or drilling holes to slide bolts to secure the bed she cuts pieces of leather, except it clearly isn't leather, loops it, nails it to the underside, and uses that to secure the door stops.

It is not leather. It is not going to hold.

The nails could come out.

She supposedly based this on something she found, except allegedly she could only find one picture, without any information.

However, she did not share the picture, not directly, she shared a picture that she took, probably with her phone, which looked like garbage.

Here is the real one:
This is the post that I found about it: Ikea hack! Side murphy bed / dog bed…again?!

They found this $100 39x93 Ikea cabinet, for some reason marked down to $49, cut a piece of plywood, nailed trim to the front, attached it with a piano hinge, installed a slide bolt, and nobody worries about having a 24" top less than 36" above a mattress that is only 38" wide, probably because this is a bed for dogs.

This lady bought a twin frame off of Craigslist, turned it on its side, and did unspeakable things to it: Lowe's made a video last year similar to one that Bob of I Like to Make Stuff made recently, but it wasn't a long ad for a Murphy bed hardware supplier [with free hardware provided by the company]. They screwed flange ends to the end of the frame, drilled holes in the frame, screwed in small sections of pipe, and then screwed caps onto the ends.

They cut pieces of trim to fit over the gap and secured it with velco.

My favorite part was when she said "You probably covered up an electrical outlet, which isn't code, so you need to create an access panel: DIY Murphy bunk bed! I would try to figure out how to do this in the shed so my niece and nephews could sleep there, but the side walls are only about 50" tall.

I could make a twin Murphy bed that folds into the wall and another that folds into the ceiling.

I could put a Queen or full on one side and a twin as high as possible on the other.

We will see if my sister ever visits again, though.

This is the hardware they used:
They epoxied flange bearing into each pivot point and installed cap bolts with coupling nuts with thread locker.

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