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Old 06-27-2012, 10:09 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BHarvey View Post
The problem with this method, is, say you have a 11 gallon tank.... and you have a +/-.25 gallon error
200/5=40mpg
200/5.25=38.1
200/4.75=42.1

VS.
400/10=40mpg
400/10.25=39mpg
400/9.75=41mpg

See the difference? Half the error when doing full tank.
Was I at least right in saying that the first half tank is the most efficient or was this an error?

Also, I tried accelerating briskly as others mentioned here and it still dropped my mpg even with the above mentioned margin/error in mind.

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Old 06-28-2012, 04:13 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HilseeJ View Post
Was I at least right in saying that the first half tank is the most efficient or was this an error?
No.The second half tank is more efficient because the vehicle is lighter. That's been my experience, anyway. And twice as many trips to the fuel station waste more time and fuel.
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The presence of traffic is the single most complicating factor of hypermiling. I know what I'm going to do, it's contending with whatever the hell all these other people are going to do that makes things hard.
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Old 06-28-2012, 11:04 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HilseeJ View Post
Was I at least right in saying that the first half tank is the most efficient or was this an error?

Also, I tried accelerating briskly as others mentioned here and it still dropped my mpg even with the above mentioned margin/error in mind.
Brisk acceleration varies from car-to-car. You need to watch engine load with a Scangauge or Ultragauge, otherwise you may waste more fuel accelerating briskly. See how to determine best acceleration load in this thread.
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:22 AM   #24 (permalink)
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To the poster that said the first half was more efficient..uhhh... no, it isn't. It is infact the reverse as you have to tote around that extra gas.

What you are experience is the fact that most fuel gauges are ridiculously inaccurate. As a general rule, they stay pinned at full for 100 miles or so, then drop like a rock.

To the OP, I have a '97 Saturn 5 speed also. It is a SW2 (DOHC). My daughter drives it most of the time. the DOHCs are shorter geared than the SOHC. If you are not sure which you have, XX1 means single overhead cam, XX2 means double overhead cam. The nice thing about the short gears is that on level ground, you can short shift very easily. I find this thing will idle along in 5th rather happily at 25 mph, maybe even a little lower. I usually skip shift from 1 to 3 to 5 unless going up a fairly decent hill.

Something I don't like about the saturn is that it does not seem to have DFCO, so an ignition kill switch would be a good investment.

As for the fuel gauge, as I said, I don't drive it that much, but, I have noticed that unlike most cars, it drops quickly during the first half tank to the point where it is sitting near E and it still has nearly a half tank left. I drove it last week to Mass (about 20 miles). When I left the house the gauge was almost on E, close enough that I stopped near my home, to get gas rather than risk the drive to mass where gas is 20 cents cheaper. I just put in two gallons and the needle shot up to about 1/2. Later in the day, in mass, I filled up and it took just 6-7 gallons.

As for driving in Manhattan, why do you?

I ride my bicycle to work, about 12 miles. Well, I do when I'm not being lazy. I highly recommend it to anyone that can do it. Street riding is a little adventurous in the city, but, many do it. Also, I do believe there is a pretty good network of bike paths. And if you can't ride, how about the train/bus? Mass transit isn't practical for most people in the US, but, it is very practical for you.
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Old 06-29-2012, 10:51 AM   #25 (permalink)
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If you cannot or choose not to hypermile then buy a more fuel efficient car that gets good fuel efficiency without having to hypermile like a Prius or an electric car.
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Old 06-29-2012, 12:22 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HilseeJ View Post
Was I at least right in saying that the first half tank is the most efficient or was this an error?

Also, I tried accelerating briskly as others mentioned here and it still dropped my mpg even with the above mentioned margin/error in mind.
have you tried the Drive Without Brakes technique? If you are accelerating briskly in the city you might have to jam on your brakes at the next light. I'm not saying be rude and not get up and go from light to light, but maybe stop accelerating before you hit the speed limit. That way you can let the rolling resistance in your car slow you down before using your brakes.
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:23 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Lots of nice info thanks!
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Old 07-12-2012, 03:27 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I have a 2001 techoma normally I get 20-21 mpg to and from work ,all less than 12mi. I have an old-old scangage and started to p&g a bit this week, I got 27.2 on a trip that is uphill half way I use the LOD and stay below 54% as much as possible. Im hoping for a 24mpg tank fullup ave.
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:10 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t vago View Post
Accelerate briskly from a stop (don't floor it, though). Get a ScanGauge or similar to determine if and when your engine computer goes into wide-open throttle (WOT) open loop as a result of depressing the gas pedal, and then use that information to avoid going into WOT open loop.
How does one determine if/when their engine goes into WOT loop?

(I don't have a ScanGauge yet, but I'd like to know how to figure this out for when I get one)
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Old 07-20-2012, 06:12 PM   #30 (permalink)
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It will be in the documentation that comes along with your ScanGauge.

Basically, one of the gauges you can display is whether your vehicle is in closed or open loop. It'll either read "OPEN LP" or "CLS LP".

I also rely on a wideband O2 sensor gauge to tell me. If my AFR goes below 14.0:1 while accelerating, I'm in open loop.

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