EcoModding a CRX to the Max: Price?

[SVOboy]

So let's just assume I can pick up a rolling shell for 500 and the engine would be another 500...what do you think it would cost to do up the car in full aero amazingness (welding and such instead of coroplast) and doing whatever other mods + throwing some paint on, in total?



I'm thinking < 3k$ if it's kept cheap.

[LostCause]

Quickly off the top of my head, prices for my ideal CRX HF:

1988 CRX HF: ~$1500
d15z1: $150
P07 ECU: $80
4-wire O2: ~$350
49-state Hf tranny: $80
Lowering Springs: $80
Stiffer Shocks: ~$200-300
Instrumentation: ~$170
Foam: ~$300
Fiberglass: ~$320
Epoxy: ~$450
0W20: $60
VW G52 MTF: $50
VX Wheels: ~$300
155/85/13 Tires: ~$150
LED Lights: $120
HID Lights: $300
Distributorless Ignition/Sparkplugs: $300
Prius NiMH + Supercapacitors: $200
Del Sol Seat: $80

Engine Rebuild: $300
Tranny Rebuild: $150
New Wheel Bearings: ~$250
Rebuilt/Lubed Suspension: $300

Subtotal: $6340

Tools: ~$1000
Recouped costs: ~$400
Tax/Shipping: ~$500(?)

Total: $7440

Obviously, this long surpasses the economic point of the car. For a conventional car going for max MPG, I think it would be tough to beat. 100mpg highway, easy.

- LostCause

[SVOboy]

Originally Posted by LostCause

Quickly off the top of my head, prices for my ideal CRX HF:

1988-91 CRX Rolling Shell: $300-500
d15z1: $480
P07 ECU: $40
4-wire O2: with engine
49-state Hf tranny: free-$50
Lowering Springs: free-$20
Stiffer Shocks: meh
Instrumentation (MPGuino!): $40
Welding and junk: $500
5W20: $15
VX Wheels: ~$100
155/85/13 Tires: ~$150
DIY LED Lights: $20
Paint: $600

Total: 2225-2795

I edited in my thoughts on items + prices for this project.

On monday I'm buying my own d15z1, jdmish, 30k + ecu + all sensors for 520 shipped, so that's my engine reference (40 of that is the ecu).

[LostCause]

You're lucky you live in an area and know how to get stuff cheap.

Definately post the powertrain installation!

- LostCause

[SVOboy]

I actually was just browsing CL today and found a rolling SI shell with no rust for 300 bucks, quite a deal. I'd be building up this car for my boss at EcoGeek, since he wants to rep the hard core mileage and dress it up in his logo and what not, so I'd be building it for him. Of course, cost is a factor. The d15z1 I'm buying is for myself, and there will be a full write up on here about it,

[Coyote X]

If you are going to do the welding on it what kind of tools and equipment do you already have?

Having to shell out for a mig, torches/plasma cutter, tubing bender, metal brake, and random accessories will put you over $3000.

But if you have stuff or access to tools then it becomes way cheaper. So for ~$55 for a 4x8 sheet of 16ga and a bit more for stuff like 20-22ga. Plus some tubing, 3/4 square 20ft long is around $45 each if you order more than one. Lexan varies but can be found for about $70 a 4x8 sheet. Black ABS plastic can be had for around $75 for 4x8 but much cheaper for smaller pieces.

That is pretty much all the stuff you need if you are going to do some fairly sturdy and permanent aeromods. If you plan on cutting into the unibody then it starts getting more expensive and time consuming adding tubing to the car to reinforce it. The tubing can be cheap and really it doesn't need a tube chassis. Just something to stiffen the cut areas and keep the car solid. Square might be easier to work with since you can do away with the plasma/mig and use a chop saw (~$75 for a cheap one) instead.

I would guess probably $500 to chop the top for materials. 100 for a new front end. Maybe 150 for a metal belly pan. boat tail would prob be expensive. It could be combined with the top chop to totally reshape the back end of the car behind the wheels to save weight.

Then if you are going for looks you need some lightweight body filler to smooth all of it out then put some paint on it. So look at probably $500 to make a really good looking car. All the way down to $50 for a gallon of paint from the hardware store and just spray/roll it on the car.

[roflwaffle]

Any reason it has to be a Honda? The cheaper you can find a ~2000lb econobox with decent gearing options, the cheaper a project like that would be.

[SVOboy]

Well, the CRX has a small foot print and good Cd already, besides being available for $300...I haven't seen any rabbits for sale for $300 lately, ...and any other car would involve custom mounts and more annoying wiring and such.

[roflwaffle]

Custom mounts for what? The problem with the CRX IMO is it still needs a drivetrain, so by the time you're done you could be out another few hundred at least since IME Honda stuff is $$$. It's as nutty as VW diesel crap. I think you'd be better off looking for complete vehicles if you're gonna go bat****crazy on it, provided of course you thoroughly research your gearing options, since by aero'ing it up, reference area isn't as much as of a concern. In fact, as Basjoos shows, once ya get past the weight/aero issues, gearing will still hold ya down unless ya don't mind going 70+mph.

I'd go for one of these, or whatever is similar in yer area. A small, cheap, complete, 4cyl.
http://capecod.craigslist.org/car/636481599.html
http://capecod.craigslist.org/car/637680297.html
http://westernmass.craigslist.org/car/629776242.html
http://westernmass.craigslist.org/car/649532400.html

[LostCause]

An early second generation CRX was one of the lightest and most aerodynamic cars ever imported into the United States. The fact that it achieved over 50mpg stock and can be mated to one of the most fuel efficient OEM engines ever offered makes it an obvious choice, in my opinion. A slightly more expensive project car would be worth the potential it offers.

I'm definately biased towards the CRX HF, but I can't think of another car that has the potential to achieve such high mileage so cheaply. Honda's are also easy to work on...just about everything is modular, compatible, and light.

- LostCause