Finally got off my... Pics included.

[igo]

Does that qualify? I belive you need to have an epa rating of 18mpg or less. See Below:



Important Things to Know

-Your vehicle must be less than 25 years old on the trade-in date
-Only purchase or lease of new vehicles qualify
-Generally, trade-in vehicles must get 18 or less MPG (some very large pick-up trucks and cargo vans have different requirements)
-Trade-in vehicles must be registered and insured continuously for the full year preceding the trade-in
-You don't need a voucher, dealers will apply a credit at purchase
-Program runs through Nov 1, 2009 or when the funds are exhausted, whichever comes first.
-The program requires the scrapping of your eligible trade-in vehicle, and that the dealer disclose to you an estimate of the scrap value of your trade-in. The scrap value, however minimal, will be in addition to the rebate, and not in place of the rebate.

[cfg83]

Christ -

Originally Posted by Christ

IAT's never went over 113*, engine temps never went over 221, and that was after a long full throttle pull up a hill in 1st gear at 4500 RPMish, then sitting idle at the top of the hill in the pull off.

I call this the "Go or Blow" test.

Verdict - it works, but duct tape sucks after 12 hours of rain. I'm going to have to find a more permanent way to fasten them, which means I'm going to find my rivet gun and some ABS or sheet metal. Screw it, I'm not going to be able to sell the van for what I want anyway, so I'm just keeping it and going to start modding the hell out of it.

Yeah, my electric fan always comes on at 221 degrees F, so I'm watching for that number in posts. I can't remember where I heard/read it, but I learned the 250 degrees F was the engine damage zone. I usually force the fan on at 210+ degrees F because I don't want to even *reach* 221.

I *always* like reversible mods, but I don't like duct tape. Sticky goo that has to be cleaned off (the lazy gene strikes again).

Maybe you could use zipties through the coroplast onto the grill. No harm done. EDIT: Oops, it doesn't look like you have a "grill" like I was thinking. I was thinking honeycomb.

CarloSW2

[Christ]

Oh, I'm going non-reversible with it next... Sheet metal and pop-rivets LOL.

Igo- Why did you post that? It has nothing to do with this topic... I could care less about the CARS program, and no, Cara doesn't qualify. She's the only model that doesn't in this generation, from what I could tell by the preliminary list.

[Bicycle Bob]

I still don't understand this grille block thing. The aero improvements have to come at a cost of decreased lifetime for anything rubber under the hood, at minimum.

Would it be smarter to hood vent like this and then duct directly from the radiator to the vents with dryer tube? That way air's only obstructed by the radiator fins themselves, not by the whole engine/drivetrain/underbody/rear axle/etc.... and you're not heating up expensive parts needlessly?

Granted, I live in AZ where an engine's cooling system is pushed near capacity half the year. May not be such a concern up north... but I just don't like the idea of running organic compounds (like rubber hoses, belts, seals, plastics) hotter than necessary.[/QUOTE]

Ideally, the radiator flow would be all in smooth, tapered ducts, but there seems to be no room for them in most designs. Those exit vents are nice, but nowhere near the area needed to match the intake, let alone account for the increase in volume. The rubber bits might prefer their own moderate supply of fresh air. At the other extreme, parking lots in Fairbanks get llittered with "snow snakes" - fan belts that have just snapped from a cold start. I'd like to find a simple way to get a grille block to move along with the thermostat, or instead of it, as on the original Rolls Royce. Their famous grille is an imitation of "venetian blind" shutters.

[cfg83]

Bicycle Bob -

Originally Posted by Bicycle Bob

...

Would it be smarter to hood vent like this and then duct directly from the radiator to the vents with dryer tube? That way air's only obstructed by the radiator fins themselves, not by the whole engine/drivetrain/underbody/rear axle/etc.... and you're not heating up expensive parts needlessly?

...

What is your opinion of creating a "vent" at the end of the hood by raising the hood (ignore the hood scoop in this example)? :



The added benefit is that the hood doubles as a cover for the wiper blades.

CarloSW2

[Bicycle Bob]

"What is your opinion of creating a "vent" at the end of the hood by raising the hood (ignore the hood scoop in this example)? :"

I like the extra exit area, although it is in a somewhat high-pressure zone. Also, there is probably less restriction with the large, rough passage around the engine than in a small, rough dryer hose, or bunch of hoses. It would probably pay to add some fairing where the hood used to be, to make a smooth tapered passage to the exit slot.

[Christ]

Cfg83 - Nope, I don't have the Chrysler Town and Country grille, I have the "grab the bull by the horns" Dodge grille... the one that sucks for modification, though I'll be fixing that shortly, if I get off my... again.

When I first bought the van, I was going to convert it to the 98-00 TC front end, for the dual bulb headlights and the separate running lights, plus the better looking all-around front. I quickly decided that it wasn't worth the money for no apparent gain, other than ease of modding, so I stuck with what I had, instead of shelling out $200+ just to cut it up and modify it anyway.

What I'm actually planning on doing, is cutting away the grille at the outermost ridge (approx the duct tape line), then forming some sheet metal to fit in the hole and overlap the back approx 3-5mm, so I have a "lip" to fasten it with (With rivets. I like the machine look). There's still not a whole lot I can do about the opening along the hood line, except lower the hood, but that will offset the hood/fender seam, unless I can "adjust" the fenders as well, which I haven't looked into.

The whole lower grille area, I'm actually going to cut it about 1" down from the white area, in the black area, all the way to the wheel well area, leaving the plastic lip and about 1" there as well, to fasten more sheet metal to, hopefully from a roll of flashing or something that will let me make a continuous layer of metal all the way across. If not, I'll have to get creative with rivets to make it look decent.

I have plans with a hole saw, as well, for the future.

[Christ]

Originally Posted by Bicycle Bob

"What is your opinion of creating a "vent" at the end of the hood by raising the hood (ignore the hood scoop in this example)? :"

I like the extra exit area, although it is in a somewhat high-pressure zone. Also, there is probably less restriction with the large, rough passage around the engine than in a small, rough dryer hose, or bunch of hoses. It would probably pay to add some fairing where the hood used to be, to make a smooth tapered passage to the exit slot.

Obviously (to you and I, maybe not to other people) the intention here is for high speed venting, where the front of the car would be higher pressure than the cowl area.

Reportedly, it works. I've never tried it myself.

[Christ]

Duct tape saves the day!

[Bicycle Bob]

For a professional look, it is amazing how much better things look if you buy coloured duct tape. For best weather resistance, the clear type seems to do quite well.