First MPG concious vehicle...and Im LOVIN it!!!

[66sprint6]

Finally broke the 40mpg mark this past tank which was a breath of fresh air after two near consecutive 39.5mpg tanks lol. I drove a tad more highway than usual and tried using the motor to brake more but I feel the highway miles are what pushed me over the top. Im still on my quest to not only get consistent 40mpg tanks, but try to get them while hitting the hwy as little as possible. Ive got some sideskirts coming in from an Escort GT then Ide like to look into either some lighter wheels or possibly lowering the car slightly. I need new struts so might not be a bad mod while Im at it.
Matt

[Ladogaboy]

Congrats! I'm sure that, as you get the rhythm of your city drive down, those numbers will go up.

[EricRyan]

Originally Posted by 66sprint6

Finally broke the 40mpg mark this past tank which was a breath of fresh air after two near consecutive 39.5mpg tanks lol. I drove a tad more highway than usual and tried using the motor to brake more but I feel the highway miles are what pushed me over the top. Im still on my quest to not only get consistent 40mpg tanks, but try to get them while hitting the hwy as little as possible. Ive got some sideskirts coming in from an Escort GT then Ide like to look into either some lighter wheels or possibly lowering the car slightly. I need new struts so might not be a bad mod while Im at it.
Matt

Why do you use the engine to brake? The way I see it, a motor idling at 2,000rpm will use more gas than one idling at 500-1000rpm. It seems that clutching in/shifting into neutral and using the brakes would be more fuel efficient.

[Arragonis]

Originally Posted by EricRyan

Why do you use the engine to brake? The way I see it, a motor idling at 2,000rpm will use more gas than one idling at 500-1000rpm. It seems that clutching in/shifting into neutral and using the brakes would be more fuel efficient.

The engine isn't idling at 2000 rpm, it is being "driven" by the car. FI systems shut off fuel when the speed is over idle and the throttle is closed. The downside is that the compression of the engine slows the car quicker than being in neutral.

The skill is in choosing the best method based on the road you are on - steep downhill stay in gear - no fuel used and gravity overcomes the compression. On the flat or on a shallow descent then go for neutral so you "glide" for longer without losing speed but the engine is using fuel to idle (usually 800-1000 rpm).

EDIT - or in the latter case shut off the engine altogether. We have EOC which can be EO(n)C or EO(ff)C depending if the engine is on or off.

[66sprint6]

Yeah, he answered it for me!!! Im considering the whole fuel injector switch but I wanted to keep things mild at first. I havnt started shutting off at lights and stuff yet and bet I could bump my numbers up slightly if I did. I know what lights are usually longer than others and could try it out sometime. I like to work small steps at a time and see what works and what doesnt!
Matt