Greetings from a diesel truck driver pulling a 5th wheel

[skyking]

EDIT: And thats a heckuva lotta clamps!

I had them all off the wall at one time.


The truck is becoming a complete woody. At first it was just the boxes, then I got some Brazilian Teak (Cumaru) to put on the running boards. The trim on the side of the cab is going to be Ipe`, or Ironwood.
I needed a new grille and was just getting a cheap replacement when one of my "friends" suggested that I make a wood grille. With friends like that.........
So now I am designing a wood grille with controllable louvers. It will warm up the cold beast and rid myself of some of that excess drag.
The downside to that is the massive intercooler. It wants some air when I need power. I came up with a solution for that this morning. I'll make the controller so I can over ride to the open position, and hook a cylinder up to boost. Play with some springs and get it to go full open at 10 PSI or so. It rarely goes over 10 PSI on flat ground and slight hills when towing.
Getting rid of the engine driven fan for a pair of electrics. That will help a ton.
The bumper is another "clean slate make it from wood project", I'll push it down and add a rubber air dam below it.
I see all sorts of arguments about dams vs underbelly mods, with the dams getting knocked for increasing frontal area.

[slowmover]

Radiator shutters . . and you're gonna eliminate those heavy batteries by adding air start? (Would be cool for the sound you have to admit).

Air start Mack V8

I'd want an over-ride or backup on the radiator shutter, and it's a great idea. My initial thoughts towards one were to use a vernier-control cab-mounted item.

Being able to eliminate the use of a winter front and control rad-temp (and to an extent, inlet air temp) is an obvious answer. I haven't searched for an example on a light duty pickup but will now (as I'm also interested).

I read somewhere that in re belly work that a "skin" from body sheetmetal lower edge to frame rails accomplishes much (for little, thus my remembrance . . and skill level).

An exhaust brake is also effective in cold start work. And ir-replaceable in towing, IMO (I'm an RV'er and lately again a truck driver doing oil field hotshot in 1T and big trucks). Our loads with a C&C 3500 and 40' gooseneck rarely exceed 15k on the trailer, but that makes the GCWR somewhere around 30k. The exhaust brake is a huge help in smooth deceleration. Truck drivers and RV'ers have the same problem of learning to use every foot of roadway effectively. The DODGE C&C Manual recommends the exhaust brake for any trailer of 10k and above (I'd say 8k).

Some further thoughts:

KENWORTH in their famous White Paper on fuel economy (and CUMMINS) note that further refinements include the number of steering corrections per 10 or 100 miles, and brake applications as parameters to monitor in fleet applications. A note, in other words, that steering play should be eliminated, and the BEST brake controller for the trailer be used (MAXBRAKE at present, IMO) as well as drum adjustments [and electrical continuity]; caliper actions, alignment on both vehicles. etc, be checked.

I like to think of highway economy -- and especially towing economy -- as being able to remain lane centered with the least or lowest effort despite all external conditions of road, load, traffic or rig. A light touch is all that is needed. If not, then more work is needed on applicable components or systems. Establish the best possible mechanical baseline, then the aero will be clear as to benefits.

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[skyking]

New Borgeson aftermarket steering box and shaft. check.
New upper and lower ball joints. Check.
Exhaust brake installed. Check.

I would not tow heavy without an exhaust brake. I like the fact that I can come down a moderate grade at 60 in 3rd and not touch the brakes, so if some bonehead decides to make my day they are nice and new and cool. Oh yeah, all the brakes are new.

I took out the two group 27 batteries from under the hood and installed a single group 4DM (marine deep cycle/starting) battery in the bed area. It is not lighter, but it is no longer corroding everything in sight and adding weight to the already loaded front axle.


The box is more of the epoxy and glass and 3/8" marine plywood construction. I vented it with large holes using regular window screen. It is plastic and will not corrode. I'm not wanting to find a hornet's nest in the battery box.

[slowmover]

One serious battery.