Honda Civic for new car?
 

So I have been thinking a lot since my accident last month, and I just can't find any Toyota Corolla's/Echo's in my area that are under 5k, at least not without having over 100k miles... I seem to be finding a lot of 98-2003 civics that are under 100k miles, clean title, and 4k or under. Would this be good for a new car? I'm being careful to look for any signs of the car being 'riced' and just want some extra input. I looked at fuelly and some other mpg sites and see that those years are only rated for 33mpg highway, what are some real numbers I would be looking at? My Camry was rated for 27 and I got 33 out of it consecutively. Also I'm buying automatic, not manual.

Here is one I found, I'll update with more as I find them. I don't like the aftermarket air intake on it, and will probably mod that to make it a warm air intake, but only 71.8k miles for 4k isn't bad: 1998 Honda Civic LX (green)

Here is another: 2004 honda civic 104k auto

Here is the criteria I'm looking under if anyone wants to help me look because tbh, I have no idea what I'm looking for. Nothing over 110k miles please: inland empire all for sale / wanted classifieds "honda civic automatic" - craigslist

Well, I've got a bit of a love-hate relationship going on with my 7th gen ('01-'05) Civic.

7th gens are prone to tranny failures. Autos are worse, but even manual trannies often get input shaft bearing failures. They also commonly get headgasket failures. I've now had both to deal with (as well as some other small issues like motor mount failures).

The 6th gens ('96-'00) seem to be more robust and I would probably lean towards one of those if I were to buy a Civic again.

Oh I see, well I found a '99 civic with only 59k miles for 5k that I was going to go look at, just waiting for the guy to send me some pictures. Thanks for the tip I'll avoid anything 01 and older.

I have a soft spot for the 96-00 Civics.

Check for a crack in the exhaust manifold, right around the top-front oxygen sensor. It's right on top in front so it's easy to see. Not to bad to fix either - I think I paid ~150 for my new one and a few hours of work (rusty bolts were the worst part).

An automatic will get better highway mileage for normal drivers, but a manual allows much more in local driving.

Wow, that is quite low! If it's in good shape, snap it up!

Timing belts are always a concern. While most people only worry about the miles (it's due every 90k miles) age is also a concern, according to the manual, every six years, IIRC. Documented proof is important. If it's never been done, I would replace it immediately as it's 15 years old now...

What model? HX, CX, DX/LX? HX should be best for mileage, EX and Si worst.

I drive 71 miles freeway, 8 miles highway and 1 mile city to work and back, other then that I'm not going to drive the car so yea idk. And thanks for the tip, that will be the first thing I look for.

Can't speak for the automatic as mine was a manual, but everything else in my '97 Civic DX was fine with over 225k miles. Engine burned a little oil, likely the valve guides from what I've read. Solid economy car. Check for rust, as that will have better chances of killing it than miles/time.

The 2001 to 2005's are pretty decent. But, like Darcane said, they can have head gasket issues, manual and auto trans issues. My input bearing makes a little noise. I might replace it whenever I change the clutch out. So maybe in 10,000-200,000 miles...
Headgaskets are hit and miss.

I am getting low 40's with a manual transmission. I am not doing very well at hypermiling either (not using my kill switch or P&G)!

I just replaced the oil pan on my 00 HX and rusty nuts were indeed the worst part. I needed to detach the front exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold, but the nuts\bolts were rusted. PB Blaster did not seem to help, neither did a heat gun or propane torch. By then, the corners were rounded. I ended up removing the manifold, wrestling everything out, and hammering a 13mm socket onto the 14mm nut, which seemed to crack the manifold.

So, uh, yeah, do not use a hammer on your car if you can avoid it.

To check the manifold, detach the cable to the oxygen sensor, pull the two 12mm bolts, and slide the heat shield down the cable. If it is cracked, I recommend an offset oxygen sensor wrench, I tried a normal one and it seemed to want to damage wires on a very expensive component. If you do need to remove the oxygen sensor, be sure to hit it with PB Blaster! :)

There is a local place with a used exhaust manifold for $150, although someone recommended a welder, who would hopefully charge much less. Car-part.com is great for finding parts, but I would also check Craigslist, and I just discovered frugalmechanic.com, which compares different sites and shows available discounts. It showed this aftermarket part:

Amazon.com: ATP 101122 Exhaust Manifold: Automotive

The comments indicate that the metal is thinner than stock, but that should be fine, the original one is very thick. If you want a new one from Honda, this might be the best price:

CONVERTER, MANIFOLD - $496.11

$500 plus shipping.

I think that I have already given too much advice that may or may not be useful! :)

Well, I know what I will be doing in 5,000 miles. Of course, many people will give me hassles for changing my own belt, but I paid Pep Boys $1,000 to do that on my Forester, and then needed to have them fix it.

If it is an HX or EX, it has an aluminum oil pan, which are prone to stripping. Again, everybody says to have a "professional" change my oil, but when that is a kid with an impact wrench, pans get stripped.

I would recommend going wherever changed the oil last, if they do vehicle inspections, have them check out the car, and then, if everything is in order, have them change the oil. Had I done that with my HX, I might not have needed to change the pan. Finally, everybody recommends Fumoto Valve | Qwik Valve™

Here is the car I am talking about. I should have enough money by the end of next week to get it if he still has it. Also guys you are talking way out of my league, could someone show me an engine and circle where I need to check for the crack?

Redlands, Honda CIVIC 99 Low Mileage, Excellent Condition

Also trust me, I know exactly what you guys mean about the timing belt, timing belt broke on my dads truck, moms car and my old camry that I used to drive all in the same month, both the truck and car burned valves, luckily when it broke on the camry, it was idling.

On yet ANOTHER note, what model is that civic? I don't see any branding on the back whatsoever, and he doesn't have it listed.