07-24-2017, 04:49 AM
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#41 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Yeah I have a break away switch to wire in.
I didn't buy the cheapest controller either.
To add a brake axle to my single axle trailer cost about $600.
But I up graded to load range E 12 inch alloy wheels for about 100 each, the brake drum hubs and up grade spindles were the rest. I made and welded the axle my self only had the machine shop fit the spindles to the axle for $40. I did all the wiring.
Then $120 for the brake control that I wired in.
But I figure the cost of not stopping would be to add a few zeros to that $600 price point.
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1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
Last edited by oil pan 4; 07-24-2017 at 04:55 AM..
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07-26-2017, 06:59 AM
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#42 (permalink)
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Laws on trailers usually want brakes for trailers at 1-2k.
Agreed that braking isn't emphasized. At 70-mph the typical travel trailer or such won't have operating brakes before the end of a full on emergency stop.
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07-28-2017, 06:21 PM
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#43 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover
Agreed that braking isn't emphasized. At 70-mph the typical travel trailer or such won't have operating brakes before the end of a full on emergency stop.
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If they are not working by the time the brake lights come on your system needs truble shot . Or just plain shot and replaced.
If you have a pendulum type you must calibrate "level"(plumb)or it will not work correctly. It could even act as you describe.
Drum brakes are less efficient as feed rate/speed goes up , it takes more application pressure to get the same amounts of brake force/speed reduction due to off gassing the brake shoes. Off the cuff EG 10A application will bairly slow @70 were the same 10A will lock up the trailer @ 10mph
At 25mph I spun the axle in the u-bolts well before stoping from the truck brakes . My mistake I did not confurm the settings before the cross town trip, it had gotten turned to max(6axle rated). Trailer was 16k 2 axle 5er .
With the Tekonsha brake controller I had,it had a pendulum to up the power above bace as g-force went up. If I experienced a lock up at highway speed, the force of the trailer sliding would apply negative g-force to the pendulum reducing the power applied , not enough to unlock the bace setting is too high for the traction sliding rubber provides checkup on the pedal spin the wheels reapply, wile simultaneously reaching down to adjust the controller and stearing to control the load in the mirrors and whats going on out front that caused the brake application. Ive yet to hit something .
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07-29-2017, 11:45 AM
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#44 (permalink)
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I should have been more clear: at that speed the drums will have lost effectiveness before the stop is completed.
I understand your points. Been doing this nearly fifty years, privately and in commercial service.
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07-29-2017, 02:48 PM
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#45 (permalink)
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It's all about Diesel
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Thermal fading is a critical issue with drum brakes, but anyway, I haven't seen many trailers fitted with disc brakes.
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07-29-2017, 03:13 PM
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#46 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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It's not brake fade, it's how the electric drum brakes work.
They lose braking force as the wheel slows.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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07-30-2017, 07:47 PM
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#47 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
It's not brake fade, it's how the electric drum brakes work.
They lose braking force as the wheel slows.
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m
Understood.
I suggest you load a heavy trailer and do a full-on emergency stop from above 65-mph. Brand new brakes.
Ruptured seals, missing linings, etc.
From sixty they'll make it. From above 65 it's not worth the chance.
Point being that now it's up to the tow vehicle to do the work. The trailer brakes have essentially failed.
Disc doesn't have this problem. They're also not out of adjustment before leaving the shop. Drums can grab and pull to one side, or one Axle of two or three does all the work.
Drums are just barely acceptable.
The test is using trailer brakes only to stop the rig from 30-mph.
.
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07-30-2017, 08:39 PM
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#48 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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That may be why people use progressive electronic controlers. The have an option to start you at 0 power. That is the recommendation for cars and trucks pulling smaller trailers.
The boost setting will start the break at 14% or 28%-power depending on the setting. That setting is for trailers that weigh more than 75% of the weight of the tow vehicle.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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07-30-2017, 11:42 PM
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#49 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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Guys, guys, this thread is how NOT to trailer. Go start your own thread!
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07-31-2017, 06:42 PM
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#50 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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