I want to build a 100-mpg car (and I want it to look vintage)

[RustyLugNut]

https://www.motherearthnews.com/gree...r-zm0z13amzmar

It could be a starting spot.

I agree with FreeBeard about using the classic VW bug platform as it gives you a multitude of kit car choices for bodies. You can adapt various engines to fill your needs.

The suggestion of a diesel as your choice for an engine is a good suggestion to follow. The choice of a Kubota 3 cylinder does not give you much in the way of tuning but does give you a high starting point for thermal efficiency without much effort.

But, if I was you? I'd get a manual front wheel drive with a substantial overdrive and stick a Kubota 3 cylinder on it. Then I would cut off the back end of the vehicle and weld a substantial motorcycle frame and drive wheel on there. That back wheel will be electric drive and will provide a boost during acceleration to make your vehicle more enjoyable and safe to drive. Then build out the body in as streamlined a tadpole configuration as you can.

Or just contact R. Q. Riley.

https://rqriley.com/

[sgtlethargic]

Safety is a big concern. The centered seat is a part of that. I'm uncomfortable sitting right next to the door in my normal car. I want some wiggle room, if hit on the driver's door.

I'm also thinking I will include tubular structure in the body. Imagine the curved line of the aerodynamic streamlining template as a roll bar.

I've been looking at the mpg calculator. To reach 100 mpg at 60 mph the drag coefficient, frontal area, and weight will need to be minimized.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by sgtlethargic

Safety is a big concern. The centered seat is a part of that. I'm uncomfortable sitting right next to the door in my normal car. I want some wiggle room, if hit on the driver's door.

I'm also thinking I will include tubular structure in the body. Imagine the curved line of the aerodynamic streamlining template as a roll bar.

I've been looking at the mpg calculator. To reach 100 mpg at 60 mph the drag coefficient, frontal area, and weight will need to be minimized.

I'd recommend a copy of the Southern California Timing Association, or National Hot Rod Association, SCCA, rulebook.
They'll lay out chassis and roll cage construction to the Nth-degree. Gumby-79s working through the SCTA book right now for his attempt on the salt, once COVIDs behind us.
EASTWOOD Publications has many a reference on fabrication ,as does You-Tube

[RustyLugNut]

Originally Posted by sgtlethargic

Safety is a big concern. The centered seat is a part of that. I'm uncomfortable sitting right next to the door in my normal car. I want some wiggle room, if hit on the driver's door.

I'm also thinking I will include tubular structure in the body. Imagine the curved line of the aerodynamic streamlining template as a roll bar.

I've been looking at the mpg calculator. To reach 100 mpg at 60 mph the drag coefficient, frontal area, and weight will need to be minimized.

Starting with a classic bug chassis gives you the ability to skirt emissions regulations if it is early enough ('74 and earlier in my neck of the woods). Using a trike configuration allows you to register a custom design as a motorcycle in most jurisdictions.

Fiberglass over foam is easy to do at home with patience. It also provides significant strength and impact absorbing properties ( think surfboards and skis) requiring minimal steel/aluminum under-structure. Unless you really do want the extra NASCAR roll-cage.

[Tahoe_Hybrid]

Originally Posted by freebeard

Many 'do' was a typo and it's just incoherent otherwise?

yeah typo this laptop is from 07 the KB doe snot ork very well anymore... it's just the front room lapto for general use

[sgtlethargic]

Originally Posted by RustyLugNut

Starting with a classic bug chassis gives you the ability to skirt emissions regulations if it is early enough ('74 and earlier in my neck of the woods). Using a trike configuration allows you to register a custom design as a motorcycle in most jurisdictions.

Fiberglass over foam is easy to do at home with patience. It also provides significant strength and impact absorbing properties ( think surfboards and skis) requiring minimal steel/aluminum under-structure. Unless you really do want the extra NASCAR roll-cage.

One reason I'll be using a vintage car is because most California smog rules don't apply to them. If I put in a newer engine, then they apply, theoretically. I'm not trying to skirt smog rules- I want to do better than them by using an alternative fuel.

I don't want a full rollcage, just some decent protection.

I plan to work with metal. Freebeard's going to have to build the VW, at this time.

[freebeard]

There was a time when using Beetle parts made more sense. Same with 2CV.

I'm also thinking I will include tubular structure in the body. Imagine the curved line of the aerodynamic streamlining template as a roll bar.
[snip]
I plan to work with metal.

Braked and butt-welded Stainless Steel?

[sgtlethargic]

Originally Posted by freebeard

There was a time when using Beetle parts made more sense. Same with 2CV.



Braked and butt-welded Stainless Steel?

I plan to start building, building my skills, and experimenting. I already know more or less what I want and what I want to work with.

[Fat Charlie]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

A vintage looking car isn't going to have the aerodynamics to get great mpgs.

Vintage weight is probably going to be more of a killer.

[sgtlethargic]

Originally Posted by Fat Charlie

Vintage weight is probably going to be more of a killer.

Why? Modern cars are typically heavier than older ones of comparable size due to all of the modern electronic stuff added. A '60 Falcon weighs 2400 pounds. A '57 Metropolitan weighs 1750 pounds.

Vintage styling doesn't weigh any more than any other styling.

Thanks for all of the replies. Notice how they are mostly stemming from the human negativity bias?