09-15-2015, 01:30 PM
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#31 (permalink)
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CFECO
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Vail, AZ.
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The Saietta motor specs: Model 95R
Efficiency, 93%
Max. continuous power 16Kw about 21 Horsepower,
Max. power intermittent 30Kw about 40 Horsepower,
Max volts 84,
Power at 48 volts,9.5 Kw, about 12.5 Horsepower, continuous,
Weight 24.2 lbs.,
Length 4.7 inches,
Diameter 8.1 inches
Price, $1406.00 plus shipping from England...ouch! But there is nothing I have found that even comes close to this.
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09-15-2015, 01:35 PM
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#32 (permalink)
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CFECO
Join Date: May 2008
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"Silent Enough"...I know it will not be completely silent, but compared to a Ice powered machine, it should be a lot "quieter". Probably about golf cart sound with some added chain noise, though those can always be changed to Timing belt drive. Not sure how well the belts will deal with the Electric motor Torque curve, though I don't plan on going full throttle from a stop very often...
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09-22-2015, 06:10 AM
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#33 (permalink)
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It's all about Diesel
Join Date: Oct 2012
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Maybe you could also consider belt drive, like Harley-Davidson still uses. Considering that many industrial equipments use belt drives and electric motors, it seems safe.
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09-22-2015, 11:59 AM
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#34 (permalink)
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CFECO
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Yes, I like the Belt Drive idea a lot, I was planning to use them on my Auto X-Prize car too for the weight, reliability, and quietness. Since this buggy made from a couple of dirt bikes, has several issues to be worked out before final drive selection, I'll probable start with chain drives, as they already exist on the donor bikes...when I find them.
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09-23-2015, 08:35 PM
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#35 (permalink)
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EcoModding Jack
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sacramento
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I had a chain drive on my electric drive hybrid, and found the noise intolerable.
On a motorcycle converted to electric with chain drives, they are very noisy, find some youtube videos you can hear what I mean.
With gas motors, you just don't hear the chain buzz so much.
I fabricated a shaft drive using the differential output of a FWD transmission for a 3.xx:1 gear. No noise.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CFECO
"Silent Enough"...I know it will not be completely silent, but compared to a Ice powered machine, it should be a lot "quieter". Probably about golf cart sound with some added chain noise, though those can always be changed to Timing belt drive. Not sure how well the belts will deal with the Electric motor Torque curve, though I don't plan on going full throttle from a stop very often...
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09-23-2015, 10:05 PM
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#36 (permalink)
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CFECO
Join Date: May 2008
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I agree the chain noise may be disturbing, and that can be delt with later with belt drives. I don't want to complicate this build any more than it already is. I think just eliminating the ICE noise will be a substantial improvement in the noise output, considering the the "Top" speed will only be about 40 mph. On the trails we travel, the speed will be between 20 mph and 5 mph, with 10 being about average.
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09-27-2015, 03:41 PM
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#37 (permalink)
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CFECO
Join Date: May 2008
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I'm almost in possession on my first Donor bike...Yea! Then all I have to do is find a twin to it, cheap! It's a 2000 Yamaha YZ 400f, so a pair should be heavy duty enough for a light two seater, after all they are meant for 70+MPH over rough terrain and large jumps. I'll be doing nothing like that!
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09-28-2015, 01:30 AM
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#38 (permalink)
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It's all about Diesel
Join Date: Oct 2012
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On the long run, a belt-drive is better than a chain-drive as it only requires the belt to be replaced.
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09-28-2015, 10:19 AM
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#39 (permalink)
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CFECO
Join Date: May 2008
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I like belt drives. If this machine works as intended, it will have belt drives in the end.
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09-29-2015, 09:31 PM
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#40 (permalink)
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CFECO
Join Date: May 2008
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OK, here is my first donor bike, a 2000 Yamaha YZ 400f, Yea...one down, one to go. I think, on some advice from an off-road race vehicle builder here, at least at first, I'm going to use a steel frame utilizing the bike frames as much as possible. This was my first plan anyway, and as they say...Keep It Simple Stupid! When I get drawing I tend to keep going to end up with the ultimate, but when it's time to build, sometimes it's better to start simple, especially with a totally new design, almost. The photo looks weird because it's actually two put together, I forgot to take one of the whole thing. It will have the top down tube cutoff about even with the tape measure in the front of the bike and just above the swingarm mount in the rear. The rear shock will lean back and mount to the seat back, and the seat base will be above the swingarm mount. The bottom tubes will be lengthened until the footwell is just behind the front tire travel. I may end up shortening the front suspension forks to get it lower. I don't need a foot of suspension travel.
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