I'm back!
 

With something totally different than that Civic HX 5 speed.

https://i.imgur.com/AcuOKhY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ff5QtWH.jpg
$900 and even came with another engine, transmission and passenger side door!
https://i.imgur.com/rcrSiH9.jpg


YEAHH Onward me Dodge D50/Mitsubishi Mighty Max! Now this thing, I got to name, it's got...character:turtle:

Looks like the infamous 4G54? Sounds like a fun project

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dodge_D50

I like Strakar. The motor looks very familiar, is it the 4G32 1.6L? It looks a lot like this:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-fr...6-100-1139.jpg

It's a slant four, amirite?

Not sure of the engine code yet. Definately a Sirius series engine, probably the 4G63B, I'll have to remember to look next time I'm in the shop (so later today). It's a 2.0L and I am told the 4G63 DOHC cyl heads can bolt on to this block so I'm thinking it's got to be.

Previous owner told me the carb is a Holly unit from a Ford 302 inboard boat engine. Those are normally jetted to run flat out / WOT. Which explains why it seems to be a little on the rich side. Starts and run's fine though, but there's 1 point in the throttle I can feel it loads up and it smells mighty rich. Could also be a vac leak I guess but it idles smooth with no missing or anything so I'm thinking it's rich. Going to try to re-jet the carb before switching it to a webber 32/36.

My father's giving me an old engine stand he isn't using to put the spare engine on. Also the clutch cable needs adjusting, that and a replacing a turn signal will problem be what I tackle today. Well that and getting to the DMV on time with the title and tag from the civic to transfer.

Until then I'm driving this. My 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD (5 speed) had it since I was 18. (33 now). :cool:
https://i.imgur.com/Vwp7QAo.jpg?1

I see 19bonestock88 specualtes it's the 4G54.

I was going by the overall layout and the cover for the timing belt. I once knew someone with a Doge Rampage. It had a 2-liter engine that was licensed from Volkswagen Auto Group that was their 1600 block with the bore spacing increased to allow more displacement.

What I want to do with mine (down the road) is replace the alternator with a Buick LaCrosse 20hp altermotor. This would eliminate the diesel's worst feature, the whole (pre-TDI) car shakes when it is idling at stop lights.

Well we have an engine code, G63B Pretty damn sure that's a Serius series Mitsubishi engine.
https://i.imgur.com/nVfCjH5.jpg

This was fun.
https://i.imgur.com/RFn5npe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7KgZWCR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/C4uXFGe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/47vF1Yj.jpg


Not sure what this diaphragm is for, but it's not hooked up at all.
https://i.imgur.com/L9tBlkL.jpg

Didn't spot any obvious vac leaks. Didn't have time to work on adjusting the clutch cable or checking the parking break as thoroughly as i'd like to have. But I did note that the cables are moving and everything looks to be in working order for the parking break, yet, no parking break. So I assume it also need adjusting OR the pads are are so worn, or something funky is going on inside the rear drum brakes.

Did get the turning signal that wasn't working, working, without spending a dime. Just had to clean the contacts!

Clutch cable adjusted. Now on to the parking brake.

New headlights
https://i.imgur.com/K8DvEWi.jpg?3

And I made a battery hold down at work from scrap on my break.
https://i.imgur.com/LXhw61S.jpg?1

LOoking good! Got any big plans? Dual cam head on that other 4G63 block? Turbo(s)? Aero mods?

Right now the plan is just to "fix it" get it all working well and reliable and go from there. I filled it up yesterday and noted the mileage so I can see what it's doing for mpg to get an idea of how over jetted the carburetor is. The factory truck got 26mpg highway. From what I can find it only weighs around 2600lb for the 2.0L G63B engine (SOHC Carbed 4G63) 5 speed RWD model which is what it is.

Took me about an hour to get the damn brake drum off banging on it with a go-devil and a propane torch! But finally success! Thing is, cables moving and I don't see anything wrong...adjusted the the shoes to the point any more and I can't put the drum back on. Soooo since the cable is out of adjustment as it's been adjusted to the point it can't go be tightened any further...the cable stretched??? *sigh* time to improvise? Or just buy new ones?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments...3l-jpg.536384/

Well, just ordered front brake pads, rear brake shoes, rear brake cylinders and all 3 parking brake cables for $165 shipped from AutoZone...

Cost of truck : $750
Cost of Extra Engine and Transmission: $150
Cost of new headlights : $36
Cost of oil and filter : $31
Cost of rear wheel cylinders : $31
Cost of brake pads and shoes : $40
Cost of parking brake cables : $85
Custom battery Hold down : FREE
Front drivers side turn signal fix : FREE
Clutch cable adjustment : FREE

Total: $1,123

Afraid to ask but... the handbrake is loose?

The parking brake cables have stretched as hard to believe as that is and thus aren't spreading the brake shoes when you pull it. All adjustments are at their limits and everything is otherwise moving and working so slack in them, apparently it's a known problem for some of the older Japanese vehicles.

Before
https://i.imgur.com/nLp4zqn.jpg?1
After
https://i.imgur.com/Rxllt3P.jpg?1
Unused uneeded junk...
https://i.imgur.com/AW5OWJ2.jpg

So good news! I didn't need the front cable or rear brake shoes! So those can go back to the store for a refund. Was getting late by the time I started though and I had no one to help with the hydraulic brakes (pumping them) so I decided not to replace the wheel cylinders for now. And just get those parking brake cables swapped out.

https://i.imgur.com/KeHI3Vb.jpg

Actually was going surprisingly easy considering how dirty the underside of the truck is. Until I get to the wheel back plate brake backing plate, whatever. And this little sob didn't want to cooperate so since it's no good anyway and I have a new one here. SCREW YOU BUDDY! grabbed the propane torch and heated the spring to anneal it. grabbed the wire cutters, snip snip snip hah! pulled the cable out so I had more room to work with that spring steel cage thing, has prongs that stick out so it can't be pulled out once installed, 3 of them, must take some special took to press all 3 in at once to remove it. Well I don't have that, but what I do have is that torch, so more fire will make it comply! Got it good and glowing hot, annealed nicely, then it was just push those prongs in and they stayed in, pulled it out and to the trash can it goes!
https://i.imgur.com/qlj8Gil.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QXA8699.jpg

New one installed
https://i.imgur.com/oZO7Jt1.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YzgONaO.jpg
Noticed this little bag of fun while working on the drivers side.. figured I never find them with eggs actually still in them, poked at it. Noticed a very unhappy looking mommy running around! I do NOT like spiders! I wanted to grab the torch for this too, but.. the gas tank was less than a foot away and the filler neck a few inches away... fire didn't seem like a prudent choice here... reminded me of the guy that burnt his house down because of a big ass spider (orb weaver I think)...Okay...well lets see how much they like kerosene in a can... i mean wasp & hornet spray. (stuff sure smells like kerosene...) Didn't seem to like it, good.. I'll remove that egg sack later.

Interestingly this side (drivers) used a C-clip instead of that cage thing.
https://i.imgur.com/8QZWESP.jpg

Bye bye garbage.
https://i.imgur.com/dm8Mmaa.jpg

Also decided to see what was in that vacuum distribution box...
https://i.imgur.com/dMpjJzf.jpg?1
See that hornet, I thought it was dead... until it moved! eek! damn it! last time one of those stung me, it got me on the hand, a week after one got me on the arm, that first one I had no reaction, the 2nd a week later my hand swelled up about twice the size of my other, looked like a balloon hand! Killed that little sob too!


[size=4]The list[/size=4]

DONE!
Headlights
Adjust Clutch Cable
Parking brake
Change oil/filter since who knows how old it is.
Battery hold down
Replace thermostat with correct temp spec unit


NEEDS TO BE DONE
Oil leak from distributor
Fuel hose routing
Verify there are no vacuum leaks
Replace garbage wiring
Replace windshield wipers
Get tag lights working
Re-jet carburetor possibly replace with Webber
Radiator fan
Inspect and replace timing belt and components if need be. As well as balance shaft belt.
Remove any unused connections, wires and hoses.
Replace passenger side door
Repair or replace bench seat.
Replace flywheel (missing teeth)
Replace seatbelts since I'm unsure if the recall has been performed.
Replace tail gate
Replace cracked windshield
Repair small spot in the bed/tray near the tail gate where it's damaged / hole
Replace rear passenger side tail light housing (got a hole in it)
Rebuild transmission
Replace shocks
Paint it myself

Trying to figure out what the next priority is. Flywheel? (pretty sure the one on the other engine has all it's teeth, replace the seal for the distributor? Radiator fan? Wipers? Windshield wipers are easy to cross off.. lets do windshield wipers next....then the fan.


P.S. She seems to be getting about 20.4mpg with the 2 barrel Holley marine 350cfm carburetor from a Ford 302 v8 inboard boat engine.... Not bad, but not good either, there's a spot in the throttle it doesn't like. Factory they were rated at 26mpg highway and I have been keeping it around 55mph not hausing it or anything since it's had some fairly shady repairs done that I'm fixing. Looks like it will probably get the Webber 32/36 DGEV carburetor...that's about $350 I was hoping to not have to spend. But first I'm going to try re-jetting it since there's no way the jet in it is even close to sized right for this little 2.0L engine. If driveablity and mpg get substantially better, I'll work with what's on it since the eventual goal is to put a 4G63 DOHC cylinder head and EFI on this G63B block.