kill switch 5th gen honda civic
 

For this one you need a normally closed push to open switch. I found a brake light switch at napa 10 bucks. Some wire, 18 gauge should be fine one male and 3 female spade connectors.
Attachment 5488
Attachment 5489
find the fuel injector relay under the dash to the left. It is a gray box as shown in the image. unplug the connector and then pull out the white wire holder in the back of the connector. A small flat head screwdriver applied to the ends where the white tabs show will free it. There is a black wire in the corner this is the ground, pull it out.

Run your length of wire, doubled, from where your switch will be to the relay. Two female spade connectors at the switch end.

Strip the insulation off one of the female spade connectors connect to one wire for the switch and place it in the connector where you pulled the black wire out, then replace the white wire holder.

Put the male spade connector on the other wire and plug it into the female connector on the black ground wire(s).

Secure your wires and attach the switch, all done.

Motor dies quickly you know it is dead when the red battery light comes on, restarts instantly with pop of clutch or turn of key. When you press the button the check engine light comes on then goes back off when you let go of the switch.

Basically this.

Does this mod kill the speedo and tach as well? or only the injectors?

The tach drops too zero quicker than the motor spins down but the speedo and odometrers are not inturupted.

I like the simplicity of this, very easy implement and to reverse
Has anyone else tried this and can confirm no issues or side effects.
thanks
Dennis

Running this setup for 6 months now with no side effects so far.

Still no side effects?
It kills all injectors !

How did you connect this to the dash?

Do you have any more photos? Thanks

11 months so far, still no side effects. This particular setup is essentially the same as turning your ignition key in the "off" position, instantly shutting off the injectors. The nice thing about this setup is that it does not wear out your ignition key.

My old setup was a switch that cut off the fuel pump only, but it was not as effective because the fuel pump would still run for about 7 seconds before it completely shut off, thus squirting bits of unburnt fuel into the combustion chamber.

The electrical connection is made to the car under the dash at the far left side of the car a small gray box labeled PGM FI. I ran the wires up under the dash with zip-ties to what ever, then to my shifter. I made a bracket out of aluminum to mount the switch to.

I have been running this set up for nearly a year. The car had 250,000 plus miles on it prior to me getting it, now it has at least 260000+ no side effects as far as I can see.