LS430 simplification build

[Macskyver]

I just bought back my old LS430 from my friend after it started having engine problems... Long story short, it has a blown head gasket... which is just fine by me as I've been wanting an excuse to tear into an LS430 and modify the crap out of it.

I really love the LS430s. They are super comfortable, have really good suspension, amazing turning radius, very good aerodynamics (and consequently fuel efficiency). I would argue that it is the best platform made by Toyota/Lexus.

They are not without fault though. They are very complicated, lots of systems/feature, etc. The connectors on the wiring harness in the engine/transmission area basically turn to dust. Even though they are super reliable, it seems like once something starts going wrong, it's never ending. They are also unfortunately expensive to maintain.

The purpose of this build is to completely simplify and "de-tech-ify" the LS430 and make it the best car for me. I'm shooting for an ultra-reliable, fuel efficient, fun to drive, comfortable vehicle that can survive the next Carrington event.

There's also a certain philosophy behind this build centered on taking cars back to a simpler and more sustainable place which is why this build is on Ecomodder and not some other forum. Modern cars just piss me off. They use screens that require to you divert your attention to operate (instead of tactile switches). They beep at you incessantly, often times for no reason. They steer for you and brake for you and generally make it so the driver needs to pay less and less attention. They require monthly subscriptions to take advantage of all their tech features. They also seem to be suited for our "throwaway" culture where it becomes more economically viable to throw them away or trade them in than maintain them and use them for many years. And even if you wanted to maintain them yourself, they seem to be designed to make it unfeasible for the average person.

Enough of my ranting... I'll address each component of the build in separate posts:

[Macskyver]

I'll start with the engine/transmission I'll be putting in the LS430. I have decided to go with a Mercedes OM605 turbo diesel mated to a wide ratio Tremec T56 magnum transmission.

The OM605 is a 2.5L inline 5 cylinder DOHC diesel and the big reason I am choosing it is because it is simple and is probably one of the most modern RWD car diesels that can easily be run with a fully mechanical injection pump. Granted, I am giving up some efficiency not going with a common rail or direct injected system, but being fully mechanical and not requiring any electronics to run makes up for that drop in efficiency. Remember, I need this thing to be able to survive solar flares. The injection pump I'll be using will have larger elements, so it can have more power, but it will also have better efficiency due to the shorter injection duration during normal driving. Even though it has an iron block, it weighs less than the 3UZ-FE that it is replacing. It is also known as an ultra reliable "million miles" engine.

I'm choosing the T56 magnum for a few reasons. First, I really miss driving a car with a manual transmission. They are just so much more enjoyable and simpler than automatics. Second, it is super robust and can handle 700 ft. lbs. of torque in case I decide to get saucy with the turbocharger. But the big thing is that the 6th gear is a 0.5:1 overdrive. That will allow me to keep the RPMs down at highway speed. It also weighs less than the automatic transmission that came in the LS430.

[Macskyver]

A big part of this build will be addition by subtraction. The curb weight of the LS430 is just under 4000 lbs. My target is to get it under 3500 lbs. Here's a list of things I will be removing/changing:

• sunroof delete
• ABS system delete
• power steering to manual steering
• power front seats to manual seats
• dual exhaust to single exhaust
• power window/locks to manual

I plan on removing every single one of the many ECUs that the car has. There will absolutely be no computer/microprocessors. The electrical will be limited to the starter motor, glow plugs, lights, turn signals, bluetooth radio, HVAC and gauges. I'll try to make the HVAC as manual and mechanical as possible, but things like the AC clutch and fan will need to be electrical.

Basically, if I can make it mechanical/manual, I will... and no critical systems that affect the car moving down the road will require anything electrical to operate.

[Macskyver]

The car in stock form would get over 30 highway MPGs (on fast Texas highways). In stock form it has excellent aerodynamics (like 0.25 or 0.26 cd). I already have low rolling resistance tires on it and will keep them.

Aside from the weight reduction and engine/transmission selection, some ideas I have for increased economy floating around in my head are:

• skinnier tires to further reduce rolling resistance and make it easier to turn with the manual steering
• replacing the factory motorized side mirrors with something smaller and more aerodynamic
• wheel opening covers or moon style hubcaps
• antenna delete

My goal fuel efficiency wise is to hit 40 MPG at 65MPH driving normally (not interested in hypermiling). That might be a bit lofty, but I think it's in the realm of possibilities. I'm definitely open if any of y'all have any other ideas to make it more efficient or more better in general.

[freebeard]

I'm shooting for an ultra-reliable, fuel efficient, fun to drive, comfortable vehicle that can survive the next Carrington event.

I feel your pain. You prep for a Carrington Event and you get a super-volcano instead.

..any other ideas to make it more efficient or more better ...

Whatever color it is, an Ultrawhite roof would reduce AC load. The whites that radiate heat in direct sunlight aren't durable, but there are coating that reflect 95%.

When you do the engine swap, take special care with the ducting in the engine compartment (for cooling efficiency.

Good luck, I still miss my 1979 Dasher diesel. I don't think I'll ever get it back.

[Macskyver]

Originally Posted by freebeard

Whatever color it is, an Ultrawhite roof would reduce AC load. The whites that radiate heat in direct sunlight aren't durable, but there are coating that reflect 95%.

That's a great idea. Unfortunately, it is black... and I live in Texas... so that's working against me. Maybe I could do some sort of radiant barrier in the headliner to get a similar effect?

[Logic]

Originally Posted by Macskyver

That's a great idea. Unfortunately, it is black... and I live in Texas... so that's working against me. Maybe I could do some sort of radiant barrier in the headliner to get a similar effect?

There's foam with a radiant barrier on it at Home Depot etc that should help there.

But I'd look to see if there isn't Super White Reflective wrap (reversible) to try on the roof.

[Xist]

What year is it?

[Macskyver]

Originally Posted by Logic

There's foam with a radiant barrier on it at Home Depot etc that should help there.

But I'd look to see if there isn't Super White Reflective wrap (reversible) to try on the roof.

I think I know exactly what you are talking about. Are you referring to the rigid foam board that's about 0.5 - 0.75 inches thick? That might actually work nicely between the headliner and roof. And it would insulate.

I'm not sure how I feel about making the roof white with the rest of the car black.. It would probably make people think it's a cop car.. I don't want to add any stress to the world if I can help it..

[Macskyver]

Originally Posted by Xist

What year is it?

It's a 2002 model year.