Manual TCC control

[me and my metro]

I agree with you, keep the line pressure up to keep the clutches from slipping and no lockup in first gear. Most computer controlled automatics have drive home failsafe modes when they have no power. Manual low usually gives 2nd and drive is usually overdrive. This is part of diagnosing a malfunctioning transmission as it raises line pressure and checks clutch packs.

[Piotrsko]

See if you can get kevlar lined bands. In a powerslide, high pressure lockups on a TC removed circle track car eats the bands which sounds like what happened to you.

[EcoCivic]

Originally Posted by me and my metro

I agree with you, keep the line pressure up to keep the clutches from slipping and no lockup in first gear. Most computer controlled automatics have drive home failsafe modes when they have no power. Manual low usually gives 2nd and drive is usually overdrive. This is part of diagnosing a malfunctioning transmission as it raises line pressure and checks clutch packs.

Thanks. Ignoring lockup for now, is it harder on the transmission to shift with a higher line pressure since it shifts harder, or is it easier on it since the clutches engage quicker? Sorry for the stupid questions, I don't know much about transmissions.

[EcoCivic]

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

See if you can get kevlar lined bands. In a powerslide, high pressure lockups on a TC removed circle track car eats the bands which sounds like what happened to you.

Yeah I am wondering if I killed the transmission by shifting with the converter locked or by flooring it with the converter locked for faster acceleration. I suspected that I may have ruined the TCC and the particles clogged the internal filter, so I cut the torque converter open to inspect the clutch and it looked decent. The friction material was thin, I would say about half the thickness of a credit card. However, I don't know how thick it is supposed to be, or how much of that wear was simply caused by 243K miles of driving.