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Old 04-29-2012, 06:01 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Sven7 View Post
If you redo the rear pan it appears you should aim for a 4* angle for maximum gains. Any angle over about 7* on a notchback will hurt efficiency (unless the rear window has attached flow).

It'll be interesting to see how the wood holds up. I would have sealed it first, but I am not familiar with your weather down in MO.
Wood is easy and cheap to replace, and if anything wont cause anymore damage if something happens...
On a side note I believe i am at or past the 7* mark... maybe 8-10* though it isn a straight angle. The panel rolls/curls upward from the Torsion beam toward the bumper. which is right at or near 0* from the start. (Not exact) but here's a pic...

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Old 05-11-2012, 05:00 AM   #42 (permalink)
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how did you mount the side skirts? You wrote in the first post you use paper tape. Do you mean masking paper tape painters use? Does it hold strong enough to hold weight of side skirt, metal brace and the tension of curved coroplast??
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:34 PM   #43 (permalink)
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how did you mount the side skirts? You wrote in the first post you use paper tape. Do you mean masking paper tape painters use? Does it hold strong enough to hold weight of side skirt, metal brace and the tension of curved coroplast??

OH YES! forgot all about this.... haha ill take some pics tomorrow for sure, gf has car today, im drivin the bike as usual now days.

The "Paper/Masking tape" is 2" Wide, off white color.. its more than strong enough to hold the panel to the car, rain is the only enemy after a certain time. but the adhesive is easy to clean up easier than other tapes, mostly because its a brand new car. so dont want any area messed up. Ive had luck with clear packing tape before but again, over time water is the killer, harder to redo and leaves nasty residue.

Im looking to take them off to do this as its been about a month and needing tape redone... might just start from scratch for the panels, also more accurate and form fitting, might be experimenting with small neodymium magnets for mounting this time around too.
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:54 PM   #44 (permalink)
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38city/52.3hwy no mods stock 2011 Fiesta S 5 spd manual...it's all about attitude. Go ahead punk make my day...see yahoo car reviews ford fiesta ****GAMECHANGER*****. RIP Carroll Shelby
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:58 PM   #45 (permalink)
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38city/52.3hwy no mods stock 2011 Fiesta S 5 spd manual...it's all about attitude. Go ahead punk make my day...see yahoo car reviews ford fiesta ****GAMECHANGER*****. RIP Carroll Shelby

I love my AT cause i know my gf wont DESTROY/explode/implode/kill the car with fire... Even with reviews and claims about the AT being more efficient. The highest ive ever reached w/o "mods" was 42mpg. was speeding when that happened taking a trip to Branson... Would love to trade out for a MT sooooo bad (like i wanted)! Those hills were killer...

Maybe its just me, but im not seeing much if any mpg increase at 45mph or lower from stock. OR than I was at 70mph now cruising at 60mph over the past month...

EDIT: With that said, when I got the car there's a sweet spot right above 3k rpm cruising around 75mph, still netted me solid 40mpg

Thoughts? yeah yeah scangauge happening soon... >.<

Last edited by RiderofBikes; 05-12-2012 at 09:08 PM..
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Old 05-13-2012, 01:25 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Rear Wheel Skirt

OK so its late and works been busy. off soon. Here are the pics for the wheel skirts. The metal piece is strip of hanging brace for airducts or pipes for homes, etc. Cut to length for the panels and kinda stitched threw at the ends for the excess. Its also tapped/stapled together along the metal to the plastic to keep it from wobbling around.

The first picture is the front of the panel(closer to nose of car), you can kinda make out that its been bent just so, to form a clamp around the body flange of the wheel well.

The second pic, is the Rear of the panel(closer to bumper), this piece just sticks out and bends behind the body so that end of the panel does not flop outwards.

Third is to show the amount of curve and gap there is between the wheel and panel. About 2.5" at the widest, and around the tire walls about 1"...

The rest of the panel is more just sandwiched to the body, and a couple layers of tape to hold in place.

EDIT: Before i hop off here... Been wondering about the rear Black (mudguards?) in second pic... Keep or toss? Not sure how much of use or interference these cause.
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:38 AM   #47 (permalink)
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thanks a lot. that clarified things. Having 2010 car, i am considering to make non permanents mods like you did.

Have you thought of "insulating" the metal bar - cover it with tape or heat shrink tubing, so it is enclosed in plastic and cant destroy the paint? In my country you would probably have trouble with anti-rust warranty in case like that (third-party metal touching body panel where it shouldnt).
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:46 AM   #48 (permalink)
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thanks a lot. that clarified things. Having 2010 car, i am considering to make non permanents mods like you did.

Have you thought of "insulating" the metal bar - cover it with tape or heat shrink tubing, so it is enclosed in plastic and cant destroy the paint? In my country you would probably have trouble with anti-rust warranty in case like that (third-party metal touching body panel where it shouldnt).

No problem, i think someone else had asked about it before, unless it was you?
when i took it off to redo tape, and clean the car a bit, there was no damage to the paint. but yes, covering the ends of the metal with "insulation" is a great idea! im gonna redo the panels again soon, but this time i will have plenty of overhang everywhere. i want to be able to match the bottom body line all the way across. was constrained by the size panels i did these with.
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Old 05-16-2012, 02:28 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Awesome job!
Pay attention to the water temp... if you don't have a thermometer in the console, install one...
Greetins from Austria!
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Old 06-02-2012, 08:29 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Awesome job!
Pay attention to the water temp... if you don't have a thermometer in the console, install one...
Greetins from Austria!
Thanks allot! I'm working to get the scangauge for the vitals of my vehicle. Switched Insu Co. so had to "pay the man"... For the time being, is there a simple analog sensor kit, that i could install into/on the radiator or coolant lines? After all this, i've still never had the fan come on excessively or "idiot lights" light up the dash.

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