Welcome to my Metro project!

This car was on it's way to the crusher after it's diagnosis of engine repairs needed and other issues the car had from being neglected by the former owner. I don't know what reasoning there is behind this, but I just had to have this car and save her from becoming scrap metal. I knew she had great potential so I decided to rebuild her and bring her back to life again.

I decided to start my very own thread on the progress of what I have done to save fuel with an already fuel efficient car. So far, I have increased fuel mileage on this car from 37 MPG to a whopping 54 MPG and will get even more miles per gallon after more repairs and mods are done. I have lots of pictures, so I will be updating this as I get those pics hosted and do a "Start to Finish" thread here. To get the most MPG, one must start with a properly running engine.

This is a 1998 Chevy Metro 1.0L 5 speed base model.
Her name is Christine.............

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tf/98metro.jpg

First off, I got the car for almost nothing ($75.00) because of no compression in Cylinder #1 so I did my research and found it needed new exhaust valves. This means the head needs pulled to see the problem. First thing is to take pictures of all the vacuum lines and hoses so when you get to putting it together, you have a reference point.
The most common issue with these 3 Cylinder engines for a dead cylinder in burnt exhaust valves from either timing or clogged EGR ports or other issues.

This guide can be used for all 3 Cylinder Suzuki engines.

Get the car in a suitable work area.
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tf/3cyl004.gif

Set engine so Cyl #1 is at top dead center (TDC).
Disconnect battery.
Drain the oil and coolant. (17mm drain plug)
Remove upper rad hose from engine side. (squeeze clamp)
Remove throttle cable and all attached vacuum lines. (12MM locknut & squeeze clamps)
Mark plugs and wires and remove wires, cap and rotor. (8MM bolts)
Mark distributor and remove. (T40 or 12MM)
Remove the air cleaner housing and tube. (10MM bolt and nut)
Loosen the alternator bolts (one on top and 2 below) and remove belt. (12MM bolts)
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tf/3cyl003.gif
Remove the water pump pulley. (10MM bolts)
Remove the crank pulley. (5 8mm bolts - don't remove center bolt)
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tf/3cyl005.gif
Remove timing belt cover. (8 10MM bolts and loom holders)
Check and correct timing marks and note rotation.
Loosen tensioner and remove belt and mark belt rotation if re-using it. (12MM bolt)
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...f/IMAG0009.gif
Inspect water pump and replace if questionable (wanna do this again?)
Remove exhaust manifold bolts and use heat if tight & pull away from head. (10MM bolts and nuts)
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tf/3cyl010.gif
Remove the 4 valve cover nuts and strike the seals off. (10 MM)
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tf/3cyl008.gif
Remove the head bolts with a breaker bar from outside in. (8 10MM 12 point bolts)
Get a buddy to lift up head & intake assy and remove vacuum lines, grounds, fuel lines, etc)
Look on cylinder head for the small oil check valve and don't loose it!
Place head in a clean work area with lots of room to work.
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tf/3cyl014.gif
Put rags in cylinder holes and clean mating surface on head, pistons & exhaust manifold.
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tf/3cyl011.gif
Clean head surface and clean out the EGR port.
Remove EGR valve and clean all ports.
Remove the camshaft bolts and cam and remove the gear and replace seal. (6 10MM bolts/studs - 17MM cam bolt)
Remove the lifters put in order.
Use a valve spring compressor with adapter and remove the valves (keep parts ordered and use your buddy)
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tf/3cyl012.gif
Clean surfaces and lap in all the valves (intake & exhaust) with lapping compound and re-install.
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tf/3cyl016.gif
Re-install lifters and camshaft. (use torque specs from a manual)
Double check all of your work and gasket mating surfaces.
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tf/3cyl013.gif
Remove intake from head and replace gasket. (optional)
Get your buddy to help you re-install the head and double check all connections!
Torque all 8 head bolts to specs and order with info from manual.
Install a new timing belt (or used one like a dummy) and check timing marks.
Re-assemble the same way you took it apart and please double check vacuum lines since there is a lot of them.
Clear all DTC if you forgot to disconnect battery.
Fill oil and coolant and fire it up!
Now you may have to set the timing, so reference your manual!
Let the car get to operating temperature and check for leaks and burp the coolant.
Test drive and watch the coolant temp since an air pocket may occur.

Sorry about the quality of those pics, but the lighting was real bad and my helper taking pictures must of been having the beer shakes going on. More updating to come.

Head Gasket Kit = $89.00
Timing Belt = $15.00
Oil and filter = $10.00
New Coolant = $7.00
3 Exhaust valves = $24.00

Total cost for parts = $145.00
Total Labor time = 7.0 HRS which was my time.

cool, lots of pics is always helpful,,,, wait where is the other half of the engine?:D

Awesome attention to detail - you don't see many guys walking you through the process, and tell you what size socket you're going to need next.

My very first "Aeromod" was actually removing dents. A dented body surface can disrupt air flow and these Metro car bodies dent very easily. Not only that, it makes a crappy car look even crappier :) I actually added my very own dent when I got mad at the car for breaking down and I decided to make things right. There were actually dents on every body panel on this car except the hood and roof when I got it. and I got all of them out using my bare hands on the insides of the panels.

Here is a prime example of a (anger inflicted) dent...................

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tetf/dent1.gif

First thing to do is to access the inside of the panel by opening the rear hatch and removing the side panel by taking out the screws and pulling it out and up.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tetf/dent2.gif

Next, I felt where the dent was and popped it out from the inside. If there is a crease or dimple after popping it out, you may have to use body panel tools or do like I did and grab a kitchen spoon!

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tetf/dent3.gif

Inspect your work and make adjustments where needed. I find you can get to the inner door simply by removing the door panel, the front fenders are easily accessed removing screws from the inner fender in the wheel well.

Here is the end result................

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tetf/dent4.gif

Total Cost = $0.00
Total labor time was about 2 hours.

After rebuilding the head and getting the body in order, I found this website and learned a lot about saving fuel. The very next steps included...............

Changing driving habits (you learn more as you try it)
Inflating tire pressures to max (which in my case was 44PSI)
Advancing the ignition timing to 8 degrees (advanced to 10 then retard until ping goes away)
Weight reduction (removed spare, jack, tools, rear seat, etc)
Complete tuneup including a high quality Baldwin air filter
Disabled Daytime Running Lights (grounded park brake wire for now)
And finally, I removed and relocated radio antenna (see THIS THREAD)
These mods and changes got me to the 50 MPG mark.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...etf/ant003.jpg

Yard sale antenna = $0.50
Total cost = $0.50
Total labor time = 1 hour
Tomorrow, I will be posting another aeromod I am doing with more pictures for your viewing pleasure :)

Great thread Johnny.

Have you tried using much pulse and glide? That should really kick your numbers up there.

My next aeromod I performed was removal of the passenger side mirror. With already having the antenna removed, removing that extra mirror only made more sense. Mine was already loose and ready to fall off, so I broke it the rest of the way off...............

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...f/zim55002.gif

If you would rather remove it normally, Pop off the inside cover and remove the 3 screws instead. This is actually a pic of the left side. A deer removed that one for me, but only left a minor dent.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...etetf/mir2.jpg

Now to make the cover for the area the mirror was. I used a piece of a stiff, plastic mudflap found at any truck stop. I had a small piece left over from the fender skirt future project which will be posted on this thread at a later time.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...f/zim55003.gif

I traced out and estimated the size with the old mirror and used a pocket knife to lightly scribe my mark.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...f/zim55008.gif

Using a regular circular saw, I cut the needed piece and then shaved off the edges from burrs with the pocket knife.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...f/zim55009.gif

The material this flap is made of is a stiff, yet slightly flexible plastic and holding the contour or slight bend is acheived by pre-bending it with your hands slightly and holding it for a minute. I then used Black Silicone RTV and carefully put a bead around the inside edge and set in place. After a few moments of holding the cover in place, I ran a bead around the outside perimeter and used my silicone skillz and my lucky finger to perfectly seal the entire piece.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...f/zim55011.gif

The most important part of this is to let the silicone cure overnight. This ensures it stays in place and after the silicone if cured, it is slightly flexible to allow for any movement from temperature changes, highway speeds, shopping carts, curious kids, etc.

Not too shabby.....................

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...f/zim55015.gif

Mudflap material = $0.00
Black RTV = $7.00
Total cost = $7.00
Total labor time = 1 hour

Transmission is being replaced. It made a grinding noise when I got it and just simply got worse as I drove it. It was so bad, it was slowing the car down. Car has been down for a few days, but I yanked it out last night and took pictures of the process while removing it.

Later I will post a complete illustrated guide on how to remove a 5 speed manual from a 1.0L Suzuki engine and the clutch replacement will also be included.

Stay tuned :)

Great thread mulletman

Trans/Clutch Removal
 

Here is my transmission and clutch removal guide for you to enjoy. Make sure you are working on a clean, concrete surface since you will be lying directly on your back with no room for a creeper unless you are an anorexic. First thing you need to do is jack up the driver side front until the tire is at least 4" off the ground and place a jack-stand securely under the frame. Give it a good shakin' (without denting the body -lol-) to make sure the car is safe because you will be directly under the car and nobody wants to die unless you think you can bench-press a Metro.

Start off under the hood and..........

Remove battery (2 10MM nuts)
Remove battery tray (3 14MM bolts)
Remove the speedometer cable (remove clip and pull)
Remove clutch cable (14MM nut)
Remove clutch cable bracket (2 12MM bolts)
Unplug reverse light connector (duh)
Remove ground cable and clean it (14MM bolt)
Reference pic below..................

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...f/trans002.gif

Now you are done under the hood for now. Next thing is to get to the axle shaft removal.

Drain the transmission (3/8 ratchet)
Remove the LF tire (4 19MM)
Remove the brake caliper and pads (12 MM)
Remove the axle nut with a impact wrench (1 1/4 nut)
Push in axle shaft to see if it's free

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...f/trans005.gif

Remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt (14 MM bolt)
Use a chisel to spread the pinch area and pound down on the control area to separate.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...f/trans008.gif

Pull the complete knuckle outwards and push axle through until free
Use a prybar and pop out the axle shaft and set aside

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...f/trans009.gif

Now it is time to get under the car and here is where all the fun starts. First thing is to place a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan to support the engine. If you are lucky enough to have an engine sling, then use it. Jack the engine/trans assembly up slightly to take tension off the mounts.

Directly behind the trans under the car, you will find the shift rod linkage and the brace. These may look like ordinary bolts and nuts, but I found out removing these were actually the hardest part of the entire job! These are actually pins going through a bushing and if they are seized up, use lots of penetrating oil and strike the housing part (eye) many times with a hammer to break up the rust. The shift rod link a double joint (not the kind you roll) and you can take it off from either location. Heat is not recommended and don't even try whacking the threaded side with a hammer unless you have a nut on it flush.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...f/trans012.gif

After getting this far, it's time for a short break to collect your senses and thoughts so you don't screw up.

Part #2 coming right up......................

Part #2 Trans/Clutch Removal
 

Ok, so lets get this transmission out now. Remember all that fun you had removing the shift rod? Get back under there and directly above it, you will see the rear mount from the firewall to the trans.

Remove the 2 lower nuts from mount (2 14MM)
Remove the bushing bolt and nut and remove that bracket piece (14 MM)
Remove the trans mount bolts and remove from trans (3 14MM)
Use the floor jack holding engine to help you.
While there, remove the one bell housing nut below starter (14 MM nut)
Get out of there and remove the rear brace where battery was (3 14MM bolts)

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...f/trans015.gif

Before removing the rest, look on the steel coolant tube and remove the bolt going to the trans case. It's easy to miss this and you don't want to break that tube.

Under car remove bell housing flywheel plate (2 10 MM bolts)
Top of car, remove the starter (2 12 MM bolts)
Make sure you removed bell housing nut under starter on earlier step (14 MM)
Remove 3 remaining bell housing bolts (3 14 MM)
Lean over car and grab trans (like you love it) and begin carefully wiggling the trans loose from the engine and use a pry-bar to help pry away from block. Stop part way out and go back under the car and pop the other (right) axle shaft. Finish yanking and carefully set it on the ground or get help from someone if you are not as buff as me :rolleyes:

Now remember in step #1 I mentioned jacking the car so the tire is at least 4" off the ground? If you didn't, the trans won't clear and you will have the engine on a piece of wood and be attempting to raise the car. Good luck with that.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...f/trans016.gif

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...f/trans018.gif

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...f/trans019.gif

Now it is time for the clutch. This is gravy work now. Hopefully you got all the proper parts and supplies like a brand new -=Sachs=- Clutch kit and 3 quarts of Synchromesh trans oil from Pennzoil, GM, or Castrol. The shop I work at only uses the best products and that is what I used.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3.../clutch003.gif

Replace throwout bearing on trans side
Remove the old clutch (6 12 MM bolts)
Replace the pilot bearing from flywheel (I made a tool)
If you want to resurface, then remove the flywheel instead. I simply used a medium grit Roloc and carefully scuffed mine. These engines have like 55 HP so I am 100% sure this was sufficient.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3.../clutch007.gif

Use the alignment tool provided with the kit and verify which way the clutch faces. Install the clutch and pressure plate and use threadlocker on the clutch bolts. Draw them down evenly and get them tight. Use torque specs if you want from a manual. As you are tightening, wiggle the guide tool and make sure clutch is centered.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3.../clutch010.gif

This is what I have accomplished so far. My junkyard replacement trans is at the shop awaiting new axle shaft seals because I don't want any leaks at all. It is also going to get a bath in the parts washer and maybe even paint if I feel like throwing some "Kentucky Chrome" on it. I will post some installation pics possibly tomorrow or the weekend and let you all know how it goes.

There is so much more fun stuff to do to this car.

Junkyard Transmission = $250.00
Sachs Clutch kit = $90.00
Axle seals = $19.00
3 QT Synchromesh = $25.00
Silver paint = $0.00

Total cost = $384.00
Labor time = 8-10 hours

Thanks for the great post, Johhny.

I think all your photos of transmission work might just save my @$$ trying to reinstall my tranny with an electric motor attached!!!!

awesome right ups!! keep up the great work!

I took the junkyard trans and set it right in the parts washer at work and cleaned it and flushed it with the plug out. I then set it up and put one quart of regular ATF trans fluid and let it sit for an hour. I drained that out to make sure it was clean inside. I then added a fresh coat of "Kentucky Chrome" to the entire case and installed 2 new axle seals................

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...clutch2002.gif

Putting the trans in was a real nightmare. Getting the wife to help was OK minus all the complaining. I hung over the driver's fender and had her on the floor with a milk crate. Got it into position finally, but she had a hell of a time trying to get the passenger axle shaft in while I tried to wiggle it into place. In the process, coolant started leaking from the long coolant tube that goes along side the block and into the back of the water pump. The O-ring in there must have torn. I guess I will fix that tomorrow somehow.

I decided to take it for a spin to see if it was OK even though the leak was going on. I drove it 1/4 mile up the road and the car shifted very smoothly and made no noises at all. It was like a completely different car.

Wow you really cleaned that trans up.

The most Ive done with a trans is drop the valvebody out of the autos in the shadow and spirit and took them apart and cleaned them inside with brake cleaner. I then made a homemade shift kit for them. Hey, quicker, firmer shifts and less slipping = better mpg right? :D

That is right! I rip transmissions out of Heavy Duty Diesel trucks now and then at work and those are really fun.

thats so pretty!! im assuming kentucky chrome = spray can chrome?

Wow, that is nice work there Johnny! I always loved dipping my rifles parts in solvent and admiring the stuff when it came out.
Again, very nice!

Awesome work Johnny Mullet. You remind me of a guy i worked with in NZ. He used to work on oil rigs as a welder and also had a mullet. Fear The Mullet!!!!!

ollie

ps: that lucky finger bit has me laughing uncontrollably! The Mrs is looking at me funny!

? Kentucky Chrome?
 

All this time I thought it was Carolina Chrome. Silly me. I love it anyway.
I told some guys at work that after I finish the body and other repairs on my Metro I would paint the whole thing with Canned Chrome.
OOHH that really got em up in arms.
Truck techs are a funny breed, don't you think?
Apparently everyone but me thinks it is a bad idea. Most even think it is illegal.
I ask "Is it illegal to make your Harley all chrome?" No you say, then why is it illegal for me to make my Motorcycle powered ride all chrome? Hmm?
Keep it up.
I like this thread.
The Gubmint won't let me take my parts in to the washer at work.
Too bad, so sad,
Schultz.

Here is the transmission installed in the car........................

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...utch300233.gif

Here is the hose and O-ring from behind the water pump......................

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tch3003555.gif

I had to remove a 10MM bolt located on the block just above the starter and carefully wiggle it free. I found an O-ring the same size from a simple shop O-ring kit, added some vaseline to it and when the hose popped on, it felt good. It felt real good. After burping the coolant, we went for a 20 mile ride and the car feels like a completely different vehicle!

Thanks for all the 'how to' pictures !

Well, instead of fixing the car, it's nice to just drive it for a change! The new trans is sooooo quiet and shifts very smooth. I am actually glad I fixed this car instead of just junking it.

I have gone through a lot of cheap, beater cars, but anytime something major went wrong, I would just get rid of it. This car is a different story and even though I had to do 2 major repairs on it, it's still saving me money in gas.

Nice thread, Mullet!

I also did the blank/silicone installation over the passenger side mirror gap, but took it off this spring - the plastic I used wasn't as thick as yours, and its edges started curling up (probably from getting hot in the sun). I need to do v.2.

We have half dozen or so old mud-flaps laying around at the shop, I never even thought of using one for the blank-off for the mirror. I justed lurked around the boneyard till one came available.
Keep it up JM I've enjoyed your thread and will probably use some of your ideas (Chrome-In-A-Can) when I can finally get mine off the street for her re-man.
Schultz

A new car
 

The car has been doing good and I already notice a MPG increase. I was getting almost 59 MPG before the trans started grinding and slowing the car down and I believe I shall get close to that again.

This is not any kind of mod (unless you include sleekness :thumbup:) or repair, but what the after affect of me cleaning up this hidden jewel for 5 hours today and boy was I surprised :eek:

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...Metro10009.gif

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...Metro10010.gif

Also notice the new wheel covers. They look good on the car and not intended for aerodynamics, but seem they might cut through the air better than the dished steel rim.

I will be making my permanent partial grill block here real soon and will post the pics up!

ABS Plastic wheel covers = $29.00

Wow - that cleaned up nicely. Quite a turnaround from kicking it to polishing it lovingly :D

Glad to hear the efficiency is back. Did I miss it in the posts above... what exactly was causing the noise?

Those wheel covers don't look bad from an aero perspective.

(You should save your images as "JPG" instead of "GIF" though - better quality for photographs.)

I did not know what was internally causing the noise and the junkyard needed the core, so I happily gave it to them. It must have been the idler shaft bearings or support bearings that were bad.

I actually resize all my photos from 1200 resolution to 500 so it's easily seen on the forums and using .GIF makes editing (adding text) to them a lot clearer. A crappy computer has trouble scrolling down these pages with oversized images resized by the forum software.

I like the wheel covers also. I will be updating my fuel log in a day or so. I got 1/4 tank left and driven almost 400 miles on 7.5 gallons so far. This is gonna blow away my 53 MPG average. I never knew a bad trans could hurt the MPG so bad, but after the replacement I can feel the difference and the car coasts better and don't downspeed as bad in gear. I think removing that extra mirror was a big help also.

The MPG shown on the car's profile is without "Pulse and Glide", "Engine off Coasting", or any other extreme hypermiling techniques. I use most of the common sense tips, don't idle, monitor my vacuum gauge, drive slower, and I am happy with the outcome.

Fender skirts are on hold until I complete my partial grill block.

Go Johnny, go Johnny, go Johnny go! I am starting to miss my '87 Chevy Sprint Turbo that I bought new back in 1988. Good thread thank you!

Later,

Allan Greenblazer

Still wish I could find a good MANUAL transmission metro. I found one in an automatic, but the mpg difference is astounding between the two.

I have a Love/Hate relationship with this car :rolleyes:

Mullet,

The car is looking great... it looks like those headlights would clean right up, too.

this might be a stupid question... not sure.
since the engine is only 1.3L, would it be possible to use a motorcycle battery to turn it over? this might save you 5 pounds in weight, since they are smaller.

many motorcycles are over 1300cc's these days.

Man, now you have to pull the engine and paint it, too - something classic and offbeat, like Fairbanks-Morse green. That'd look appropriately strange in there.

I tried cleaning them up even with rubbing compound and a buffer. There seems to be some coating on them that melts a little with brake cleaner, but I did not feel like trying to remove it all like that. I thought about converting to the "Sealed Beam" setup found on the 4 door and others, but then I would lose some aerodynamics. If anyone knows what I can use to melt off this old clear coating without hurting the lights or my paint/bumper, let me know.

It's actually a 1.0L engine. I think a smaller battery might be a great idea for weight reduction!

That has already crossed my mind, but I was thinking more along the lines of "Caterpillar Yellow" or "Chevy Orange". Image a painted little 1.0L with a CAT diesel powered scheme and black trim.

Man, I wish I had another Metro! I would totally finish rebuilding mine, then the other one would be next!

BTW, my exhaust went to hell, so I replaced it all! I removed the bad cat and replaced it with a scrap piece of 1 3/4" pipe all the way to the resonator and put a new muffler and donut gasket on..........

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tetf/catty.gif

Exhaust pipe = $0.00
Donut gasket = $10.00
Walker replacement muffler = $90.00
Clamp = $2.00

Total cost = $102.00
Labor time = 3 hours

Damn Johnny, you've come along way on this car. Great job. You also did a slick job on the mirror delete. I'd try the driver side too. With those interior convex mirrors.

Awesome job.

at auto-zone (and im assuming other autoparts stores) they have a headlight "restorer" which is basicly a super fine sanding paper and rubing compound (usually) its a bit of work but it turns out great! just a thought, i dont know if there is anything else that removes hazing

you can use nailpolish remover, which is basically watered down acetone. then get "wet or dry" 1500 or 2000 grit, wet sand the covers and work the plastic with the buffer off of the car.

The only problem is that one the uv protection in the plastic goes, the lights will not stay clear long, especially if you live in the deep south.
but they will look nice....

Johnny, On those headlights.....Start with 2000 grit or 1500 grit wet sanding paper. The sheets are half sheets if you go with 3m. Fold the half sheet into thirds. Find something flexible yet firm to back up the sand paper like a little rubber squeege or firm sponge. If you have a Napa or a bodyshop supply house near by they have wet sanding pads.
(this helps keep your finger tips from doing the sanding and helps sand more evenly) . Get a CLEAN bucket and fill it with CLEAN water put a LITTLE squirt of liquid dish washing soap in the bucket and mix it up a little. Rinse off the head light of any dirt and start sanding. Start at a corner and work your way across the lense. Try not to push to hard and rinse frequently. When you are sanding try to do it when it's quiet so you can hear the paper rubbing the plastic. As you are sanding if you hear a little "zing"...That is a piece of dirt between the paper and the lense STOP and rinse the paper and the lense. Sand the lense until you see that most of the imperfections on the surface are gone. The lense will still look very cloudy but you want it to look "even" not more cloudy in one spot then another. This will take some time maybe 1/2 hour or so per light. But patience is well worth it for these lights are $130.00 each (new) aftermarket. Next get a variable speed buffer (Not a 7 1/2" Grinder) with a wool pad and micro finishing compound or a compound that say's it will remove 1500 grit sand scratched. Smear up the lense with compound and buff it SLOW with moderate pressure and I mean SLOW. Take your time, As the shine comes back to the plastic you can spin the buffer a little faster. If you buff it to fast and too hard and the compound dries out you WILL burn into the lense. The lense will now have a shine and will be much clearer, Clean the pad or change your pad and now buff it with a cleaner wax or something that will remove micro finishing scratches. This will bring the "sparkle" back. Again buff it slow Buff until you are happy with it then give it a coat ot two with regular wax by hand and try to keep up with waxing them... Hope that helps .......I've been doing that for years.... Keep up the great work on your thread !!!

Looking very nice Johnny!

BTW, this is what I use for foggy headlights: http://www.meguiars.com/?clear-plast...Cleaner-Polish