my failure story?

[ever_green]

they are actually heavier. mine was 2980lbs at the track with no hood, rear and passenger seats, spare tire, stereo, insulation or accessories. and 5 liters of fuel only. now with all those included and full tank of gas its around 3100lbs. the AWD system and the thick steel chasis are the cuprit. the hood itself is very heavy. i got into an accident with a corolla once and my front bumper needed to be replaced. the corolla was written off because of airbags popping, and total frontal damage includig radiator, most electrical system and it was leaking all sorts of fluid like transmission and engine oil. one of my headlights was also cracked and i changed the radiator too because it started leaking a bit. otherwise my car escaped unscathed.

[H-Man]

My car is a fuel sipper. Turns out my odometer was slow (and my speedometer too!) so I was beating my car's pre 2008 EPA highway rating at 75. You might want to check that.
AWD kills FE, but check your thermostat anyway. That netted me a decent boost to FE in the winter.

[ever_green]

everyone is telling me to check my thermostat. but my car barely has 40k miles and subaru thermostats usually never need changing for at least 100k mi. i mean my car warms up pretty quick in the morning.

[H-Man]

Originally Posted by ever_green

everyone is telling me to check my thermostat. but my car barely has 40k miles and subaru thermostats usually never need changing for at least 100k mi. i mean my car warms up pretty quick in the morning.

How quick is quick? My car warms up by the first mile of engine on coasting.

[LeZX2]

Have you tried checking the o2 sensor on it? Since the car only has 40000 miles it should be fine, but it could be malfunctioning and causing the engine to run rich.

[ever_green]

at -10'c temprature: 3-4min of idling (including redlights) and 1km of driving untill coolant reached 70'c which is what subaru considers fully warm.

my wideband o2 sensor is always reporting stoich afr 99% of the time around town. my lft is mostly negative. no rough idle or power issue. one thing i noticed is at freezing temps i get no AFR reading until couple minutes after cold start.

[H-Man]

Might want to kick around the idea of a coolant or block heater. I live in California and I'm going to play with a 2oo watt one.

[justme1969]

09 Subaru Impreza 2.5i, 4WD, Sedan, UEL headers, Dual 2.25" Tsudo Catback, ECU reflash, Delta Cams, STi sways & springs|Boxer 2.5L SOHC|20/26 EPA|Aero Kit|170hp/148awhp|2980lbs|0.31 Cd|

The production was not really intended for mpg here. Im sure this was another attempt at fast and furious 1/4 miler car. simple to fix find the recipe for high speed race car switch the part/s that does not work to the benefit, then try hyper mileing her again. The reflash is most suspect here.
Now I do have a similar issue with my Dakota R/t but overall if I could raise my final drive ratio it would be achieving V6 hiway numbers, after all the hipo stuff Ive done to it.
It is my playtoy and work truck so I dont plan to get higher than 20mpg as said It does better than it should already.

At this point your best chance is to do the throttle pulse method since your car is very efficient at acceleration only. [Now mabe these other eco masters can help you!]

[Fat Charlie]

The real killer here isn't the AWD, it's the anchormatic- without being able to P&G for real, all you can do in a Subaru is cry. Like your dad I've got a turbo, more horses and more weight. This winter I'm getting ~26 mpg tanks with subzero temps and ~28 mpg tanks when it's largely above freezing. My average over almost two years is 30.5 mpg.

Selling the Subaru and getting a hybrid is one thing, but selling the slush pumper and getting a real tranny is a better answer. You can keep all the fun go, but your left foot is a buch better place to mod your driving than your right- as you've already found from your BSFC chart. If you're not accelerating, then all the gas you're burning at the moment is being wasted, so being able to drop into neutral whenever you're not actually accelerating is where the real savings are.

You can go back to driving your car the way you used to and hypermile at the same time.