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Old 11-26-2009, 02:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Hiya, after some reading I bought a 95 1.0l on ebay for 2.4k it's got 116k, had it trucked into Fort Myers from D.C. my mechanic sez the middle cyl only has 100psi the other 2 125psi. What's the spec on compression? It's a 2 door, has 2 airbags and A/C, yea it's a consolaton but were SWELTERING in heat from mid June to mid Oct. Belive it or not while waiting for the 95 to come I found a 92 1.0l on Craigslist just a few miles away for $700. 2 door again no A/C my mechanic tells me it's the BETTER car. LOL it has 116k too. Both are pretty much stock but the 92 has 14" wheels and tires put on by the previous owner. After establishing basline mpg for each I will make changes and compare.

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Old 11-26-2009, 09:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Box - '99 Chevy Metro Base

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I don't know that the '92 is better than the '95. I like the later body and interior better. I also think the '95 rides better, but that's pretty subjective.

I've had a Sprint, a 92, a 94 and a 99. I had a buddy with two 96's that were pretty comparable to the 99.

All of them handle like a pogo stick in a swamp, but used for their intended purpose, getting from point A to point B, they are fine. High speeds and hard cornering will quickly show you the limits of the suspension. It's not meant to be a race car.

You might want to think about a valve job or a re-ring. Make sure the EGR passage is clear while you have everything apart. They carbon up.

Run regular gasoline only unless you like to rebuild engines. The car will not perform better, and economy will not increase with higher octane. Most of the engine problems I've run into with these engines is directly related to running too high a grade of fuel. It's rough on valves, and creates more carbon.

Run 5w30 oil. Works great in these engines. I ran 0w30 for a bit, but noticed cold piston slap, and more metal in the drain pan. Switched back, and everything is fine. 10w30 can be used in a pinch. 20w50 will tear things up. Don't use it. 10w40 is for tractor engines.

The only way to tell for sure what is wrong with the engine is to do tests and take it apart to find the problem. You can do a wet compression check to see if it's valves or rings. As low as the miles are, unless the car has been abused, I'd guess that the valves need help.

The conversion to 14" Wheels requires a special lug nut. The early hubs used 10mm studs. The later hubs had 12mm studs. A stock 10mm lug nut will pull right through the 14" wheel if you have a sudden side load.
You can get replacement over-sized lug nuts that fit the 10mm stud from ATV shops. Be careful of the 10mm studs. They can be damaged pretty easily by over tightening. If any of the lugs are hard to remove, or restart, replace the stud and the nut.

That's all I can think of for now.

Good luck with it!

CJ
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Old 11-26-2009, 09:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Minimum compression on a 1.0L or 1.3L Metro is 156 PSI. They will run with lower numbers, but not well. You will need to rebuild the top end at least.........
1.0L Head Repair Guide
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Cherokee - '88 Jeep Cherokee
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hmm sorry to hijack just a tiny bit but will the metro engine run fine on say 82-83 octane regular?

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