Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > EcoModding Central
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 01-29-2013, 09:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
Hakuna Matata
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Green Bay
Posts: 40

Avalon - '99 Toyota Avalon XLS
Thanks: 12
Thanked 26 Times in 11 Posts
OEM electric water pump control strategy?

Hi guys, I've been doing some digging on factory EWP's and I haven't found much information regarding the control strategy for these units. From what I gather so far, automakers are using PWM to vary pump speed.

Are these pumps activated only when a certain temperature threshold is reached, or do they run constantly only varying coolant flow? What kind of flow numbers are these factory electric pumps producing?

I recall reading a BMW press release for the 330i and it sounded as though the pump was off until the engine warmed up. Though this begs the question as to whether localized hot pockets could damage the engine.

__________________
Simplify, then add lightness.

Last edited by raylit20; 01-30-2013 at 06:27 PM..
  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 01-29-2013, 11:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 74

Annette - '04 Ford F150 FX4

Penelope - '08 Mazda CX-7 Sport
90 day: 23.47 mpg (US)
Thanks: 10
Thanked 27 Times in 15 Posts
I understood that most engines had a small "back channel" that when the thermostat was closed would allow a small amount of the coolant to circulate around the engine. This would even out the temperatures, and also allows the now-heated coolant to come in contact with the thermostat due to the minor circulation...

Or is that an old wives' tale?
__________________

  Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2013, 11:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
Human Environmentalist
 
redpoint5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 12,741

Acura TSX - '06 Acura TSX
90 day: 24.19 mpg (US)

Lafawnda - CBR600 - '01 Honda CBR600 F4i
90 day: 47.32 mpg (US)

Big Yeller - Dodge/Cummins - '98 Dodge Ram 2500 base
90 day: 21.82 mpg (US)

Chevy ZR-2 - '03 Chevrolet S10 ZR2
90 day: 17.14 mpg (US)

Model Y - '24 Tesla Y LR AWD

Pacifica Hybrid - '21 Chrysler Pacifica Hybrid
90 day: 85.85 mpg (US)
Thanks: 4,316
Thanked 4,467 Times in 3,432 Posts
I have the same understanding as Plasticuser for traditionally cooled vehicles. I would imagine a similar setup for electric pump vehicles, meaning the pump would be running at least a little even when cold.
__________________
Gas and Electric Vehicle Cost of Ownership Calculator







Give me absolute safety, or give me death!
  Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2013, 01:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: ellington, ct
Posts: 830
Thanks: 44
Thanked 104 Times in 80 Posts
It would seem to me a good idea to have the WP start running very slowly, part way into the heating cycle.

I suspect that EWPs will eventually become standard equipment on all vehicles as they are quite simple and a more efficient way to circulate coolant.

BTW, What is PWM? I assume it is pulse width modulation? I would guess that probably is the most efficient way to have variable speed from a 12VDC motor.
  Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2013, 02:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
...beats walking...
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: .
Posts: 6,190
Thanks: 179
Thanked 1,525 Times in 1,126 Posts
...the 1.4LT Cruze engine has an "electronically controlled" thermostat that's regulated by the engine's ECM: raising temperature during constant, light-load, operation for better fuel economy; and, reducing coolant temperature during WOT, high-load, operation for "safer" operation under full turbo-spooling (higher 'effective' compression ratio).

Last edited by gone-ot; 01-30-2013 at 03:28 PM..
  Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2013, 02:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 74

Annette - '04 Ford F150 FX4

Penelope - '08 Mazda CX-7 Sport
90 day: 23.47 mpg (US)
Thanks: 10
Thanked 27 Times in 15 Posts
That sounds like a smart strategy.

What is the power consumption of an electric water pump at different loads? Does anyone have a graph? Is it always going to be less than an e-fan on a radiator, where putting the energy into moving the coolant faster is a strategy on the highway to prevent e-fan use?
__________________

  Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2013, 04:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: ellington, ct
Posts: 830
Thanks: 44
Thanked 104 Times in 80 Posts
Depending on the coolant system, moving the coolant faster may or may not result in more cooling. I have heard of cases where moving the coolant through the radiator too quickly results in less cooling.
  Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2013, 07:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 74

Annette - '04 Ford F150 FX4

Penelope - '08 Mazda CX-7 Sport
90 day: 23.47 mpg (US)
Thanks: 10
Thanked 27 Times in 15 Posts
I don't know where you heard that, but I can guess why you heard that

The faster the coolant circulates, the less temperature difference there will be between the inlet and outlet. The coolant being returned to the engine will be warmer.

HOWEVER:

Because the flow is greater, the amount of heat being transferred to air by the radiator is greater, and the amount being removed from the engine is greater.

100 gallons of 150F coolant cools just as well as 50 gallons of 110F coolant in the same amount of time.

There is a loss, however. Heat likes to travel down a hill, and the steeper the hill, the better it travels. A point is reached where no matter how fast you circulate the coolant, the temperature is so close to the engine's temperature that not much heat moves. you won't see this effect in your civic or F150, however you might see this effect in an F1 or Indy car.
__________________

  Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2013, 09:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurcher
 
mort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 333
Thanks: 148
Thanked 109 Times in 80 Posts
plasticuser is right.
Also under special circumstances (high temperature and the pump running very high rpms) the pump can cavitate, which will reduce flow - and the engine suddenly overheats.
-mort
  Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2013, 10:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
Corporate imperialist
 
oil pan 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
Posts: 11,265

Sub - '84 Chevy Diesel Suburban C10
SUV
90 day: 19.5 mpg (US)

camaro - '85 Chevy Camaro Z28

Riot - '03 Kia Rio POS
Team Hyundai
90 day: 30.21 mpg (US)

Bug - '01 VW Beetle GLSturbo
90 day: 26.43 mpg (US)

Sub2500 - '86 GMC Suburban C2500
90 day: 11.95 mpg (US)

Snow flake - '11 Nissan Leaf SL
SUV
90 day: 141.63 mpg (US)
Thanks: 273
Thanked 3,569 Times in 2,833 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by plasticuser View Post
I understood that most engines had a small "back channel" that when the thermostat was closed would allow a small amount of the coolant to circulate around the engine. This would even out the temperatures, and also allows the now-heated coolant to come in contact with the thermostat due to the minor circulation...

Or is that an old wives' tale?
Yes its true.
I would never run the engine with the pump off for more than 10 or 20 seconds even when cold at idle.

__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
  Reply With Quote
Reply  Post New Thread






Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com