05-18-2016, 09:21 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Oil change mileage??
Hi guys, just got a Kawasaki ninja 250 and was wondering what kind of fe gains have people gotten with reducing oil viscosity in their bikes??? I'm thinking of using amsoil 0w-20/30 with Lucas oil mixed in, I've had good success doing this in my cars with no issue!! What do you guys think??
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05-18-2016, 10:54 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Using non-motorcycle oil you'll gain clutch chatter and poor shifting. Based on how light that bike is, you're better off learning a better riding technique than increasing wear on your trans.
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05-18-2016, 10:58 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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The problem comes from the engine and transmission sharing the same oil, so the oil is 'worked' harder than just oil used in an engine alone.
I am not saying you could not possibly get better FE from a change in viscosity, but you would have to monitor how much the engine and transmission are handling the change.
There is lots of research you could probably do, knowing that...
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05-18-2016, 11:50 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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It said in the owners manual that my bike could use 10w-30, but I'll double check a few times before changing the oil!!!
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05-19-2016, 11:50 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Generally what I'm doing is taking the lower viscosity oil and adding Lucas to give it extra adhesion to the metal parts of the motor and clutch!! Like I said, I've been doing that in my Jeep Grand Cherokee for years with no increase in wear as far as the filters concerned!!
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05-19-2016, 05:09 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Get a lubricheck.
And always follow manufacturer lubricant specs.
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05-19-2016, 06:40 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
Get a lubricheck.
And always follow manufacturer lubricant specs.
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Thanks a lot!! I was wondering how to check lubricity!! |
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05-19-2016, 08:40 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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The lubricheck checks TBN which is oil acidity.
Easy way to see if the additives that prevent a sluge build up and clean the engine are still working.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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05-19-2016, 09:34 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Ah, I see!
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05-20-2016, 10:42 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Rotella T6 5W-40 is on the thinner side of 40-grade, and does shear down close to a high 30-grade rather quickly.
Rotella T5 10W-30 semi-synthetic would also be a good choice if you wanted a cycle-safe 30.
My son run a 30 in his Ninja 250, and it spends most of it's time near redline.
That said, I don't think you are going to see any noticeable gains in performance or economy by going to a 30, but I think it's OK as long as you use a good one and keep track of the level. Ninja 250s will lose some oil into the airbox from the crankcase breather when running at high rpms.
I personally don't like oil additives, so I would skip that.
Check out these Ninja 250 sites if you haven't already -
Ninja250 Riders Club :: Index
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/
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