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Old 12-12-2012, 10:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard View Post
Going strictly by the side view drawing, it looks like it's not hanging lower. A rear partial belly pan might be enough.

Do it! Try laying the top view Sven7 posted over a top view of the GM EV-1 electric. It is a very aerodynamic car, but doesn't follow the template as much as it does Jaray:


Do you know what a Carson top is? As much as you say you use the soft top, a Carson top with a nice skylight or T-top might serve well.
I'll think about it. It's just, no flat surface to bolt to makes life difficult!

The engine diaper sticks out into the airflow alright. It's lower than the exhaust tip and curves upwards at the very end at a 40 degree angle :/

The problem with the Kamm back is time of course, it would require some kind of release mechanism whereas the simpler addons I'm thinking of can probably be attached with a strong double side tape (okay maybe some brackets that slide under the trunk) and never need to be removed. That said I would love to just aeromod my car all day (wouldn't we all?). I thought about gluing the partial Kamm to the window (there would be a step but it would still be an improvement from now), and when I drew it I thought it looked decent, but the top won't fold anymore, so it'd have to be cloth over frame that opens into place when the top is pulled up, and I don't feel like sorting that out.

Yes I know what T top is, but I have a full ragtop so a T top would be a complete roof replacement, and why do that when there's a functioning top already. I prefer non-convertible cars, it's just that this convertible had other attractive attributes.

botsapper I've studied pics alright. As much as I'd love a Spoon hardtop, those go for several thousand dollars (as does the factory Spyder hardtop or the VIS carbon hardtop). Most of those MR2 bodykits are impossible to find and cost a fortune anyways. This is going to be just very simple addons, there's no other way around spending $$$$.

If I have to spend actual money, the first thing I should look at is a 5th gear swap which would run about 300 dollars. That alone would make my car much more civilized than anything else, even though it's only an 11% decrease in rpm. When you're turning over 3200 on the highway, a decrease to 2900 is something to be very grateful for.


Last edited by serialk11r; 12-12-2012 at 10:08 PM..
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Old 12-13-2012, 02:41 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I was speaking of a "Carson' top. Technically, only those made by the Carson Top Shop qualify. The Spoon top is the modern analog.
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:29 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I was speaking of a "Carson' top. Technically, only those made by the Carson Top Shop qualify. The Spoon top is the modern analog.
Ah okay. Yea same goes though, I don't have the fabrication skills and time for something like that.

By the way, I read somewhere that A pillar vortices have a lot to do with cabin noise. Is this also true of C pillar vortices? I'm not sure but I feel like the wind rushing sound is "coming from" the area along the side of the top where the air is detaching. I'd have some more motivation to work on this if I knew it would be cutting down on noise noticably. Of course the engine noise needs to diminish if my car is to ever qualify as just "loud" as opposed to "very loud", but the wind noise is still a big factor.
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Probably not so much vortexes as a small air leak.
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:53 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I had a whistling sound, examined the seals on the right side, they were poking out a little, so I hammered them down 1mm and now there is no high pitch sound, it is all that low "wind rush" sound.
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:31 PM   #16 (permalink)
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stethoscope

Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r View Post
Ah okay. Yea same goes though, I don't have the fabrication skills and time for something like that.

By the way, I read somewhere that A pillar vortices have a lot to do with cabin noise. Is this also true of C pillar vortices? I'm not sure but I feel like the wind rushing sound is "coming from" the area along the side of the top where the air is detaching. I'd have some more motivation to work on this if I knew it would be cutting down on noise noticably. Of course the engine noise needs to diminish if my car is to ever qualify as just "loud" as opposed to "very loud", but the wind noise is still a big factor.
If you can get a friend to the drive,while you ride 'shotgun,' you could use a mechanics stethoscope to isolate the area of noise generation.Afterwards you can inspect the area to see if anything obvious has changed there which would trigger the new sound you're picking up.

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