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Old 01-19-2017, 07:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Power steering delete question

Finally got around to deleting power steering on a GM 3.1. I must say it took some engenuity to pull this off but I did it. With the location of the lines and with the engine in the way it makes it difficult to maintain the delete loop in case a line broke or something. I currently have the engine out .

could I just crimp both lines instead of looping for a maintenance free approach?

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Old 01-19-2017, 08:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It has to be a loop.
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Old 01-19-2017, 08:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yes loop it or it will be very difficult to steer.
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Old 01-19-2017, 09:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunaj View Post
Finally got around to deleting power steering on a GM 3.1. I must say it took some engenuity to pull this off but I did it. With the location of the lines and with the engine in the way it makes it difficult to maintain the delete loop in case a line broke or something. I currently have the engine out .

could I just crimp both lines instead of looping for a maintenance free approach?
I thought you said you already did it?

Now, why would a line break? It's not like there's any pressure in it anymore.
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Old 01-19-2017, 11:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You can crimp the lines if you take the rack apart and remove the piston seal.
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Old 01-20-2017, 08:42 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I've done looped lines and just leaving it open in neons. Leaving open definitely makes it easier to steer, but I wouldn't count on the rack working well with power steering fluid again. I never drained it, so who knows how well that fluid in there kept the rack lubed. It might still be in there.

People do take them apart to remove the seals in liquid racks and other parts in electric racks.
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Old 01-20-2017, 09:56 AM   #7 (permalink)
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If you have the engine out and can pull the rack, I highly recommend pulling the rack, taking it apart, and yanking out the piston that the power steering fluid requires to work. By doing so, you reduce friction AND you can then seal/cap the entire system.

By looping the lines with the piston in place, you basically "pump" air from one chamber that is getting smaller and has the pressure into the other chamber that has vacuum from expanding. If you leave them open, it pushes/pulls into the air. If you don't filter this, it WILL suck in moisture and other contaminants, vastly reducing life of the rack. A simple loop should be very simple, just make sure you are doing them at the rack and not the valve body (located at the pinion). The valve body lines you can cap (should be 4 of them there).

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