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Old 01-16-2013, 09:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Probe Conversion Watt Hours Per Mile

I am thinking about doing a electric Probe conversion what is the lowest possible watt hours per mile I could bring the car down to?

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Old 01-17-2013, 12:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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probe - Google Search

Looks like people are getting 375 to 400 watt hours per mile, not great but then again you are starting out with a 2,800 pound car that got 25-28mpg as a gas car, right?

Improve it by putting narrower and lower rolling resistance tires on it, smooth out the underside, make it lighter, and most of all, put lithium batteries in it as people seem to see an improvement of around 40% or even greater with lithium batteries.
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I don't think any of those probes listed on evalbum list watt hours per mile. Where are you getting 375-400? Does anyone know the stock drag coefficient of a probe?
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:57 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Have you seen this thread? There's a lot of info about Probe and modifications
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...obe-18508.html
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:05 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Most of those Probes list their range and say what batteries they use, so look up that battery and see it's capacity, figure that for their range they are discharging to 80% and there are enough of them that are all showing about the same range per kwh of battery pack that it's pretty easy to figure out using 3rd grade level math.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:40 AM   #6 (permalink)
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You do not want to use a low Wh/mile number for running range calculations for a EV conversion. You want to calculate for the worst case scenario. That means what is your wh/mile in an ice storm with heat on, headlights on, wipers on driving through slush with snow tires. This will ensure you actually have more capacity than you need 99% of the time. You really don't want to undersize your pack.

For my normal calculations, using a 2000 lb car that gets 35 mpg in normal driving (such as my Paseo) I use 450 Wh/mile. For the Probe I would definitely use more.

More capacity doesn't simply mean more range. It means more longevity of your pack, and you REALLY want your pack to last. If you size it to go 20 miles, in 5 years its not going to go 20 miles anymore. You need to size it to go 25 miles or 30 miles, so 10 years from now it'll still give you 20 miles.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:12 AM   #7 (permalink)
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The Electric Booger (1992 Mazda MX-3/Precidia) is getting 450-500Wh/mi at this time of year. Cold batteries and lots of heater use. The MX-3 is a bit smaller and lighter than a Probe, but not a lot. Click on the links in my signature.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snakub View Post
I don't think any of those probes listed on evalbum list watt hours per mile. Where are you getting 375-400? Does anyone know the stock drag coefficient of a probe?
0.304

I think I got mine down into the 0.25 region.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrzejM View Post
Have you seen this thread? There's a lot of info about Probe and modifications
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...obe-18508.html
Yeah, look through this. I got 41mpg with the stock 2.2L engine at 60mph with no P&G. All aero.

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Old 01-17-2013, 07:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You should be able to get your watt hours per mile down below 300 if you never drive over 25mph, but I bet that is not what you want to hear.
I agree with Dax, plan for at least 400 watt hours per mile, 500 or more in the winter depending on where you live and how much heat you like, the heat it's self doesn't draw the your range down much more then 10-15% but the cold batteries will reduce your range, I notice my range dropping off by 5% or so at 50F, but a little insulation around the batteries and a few 100 watts in heaters that turn on when the car is plugged in will help a lot, but even then when it's cold it takes more energy for the tires to roll, the air is thicker so that is more resistance, oil and grease is thicker and then the batteries are cold on top of that.
Lead acid batteries don't like to be discharged, sure deep cycle batteries handle being discharged 80% but it shortens their life! I figure with a new set of batteries I don't want to ever draw the pack down below 50%, that way when my pack is 4 years old I might be drawing it down to 70% and that 5th year it's being drawn down to 80% to go the same distance, for every day driving tho I am only use a fraction of that, I get to work and my battery pack is between 72% and 78% full depending on the weather, then I plug in, of course the average lead acid pack in a car lasts 3-4 years and mine is on it's 4th year and still and 80-90% of it's life left, so if I keep up with the light use I might get 7-8 years out of this pack, something that is almost unheard of with a lead acid pack in an EV, using it nearly every day 9 months out of the year I have collector plates on the car, ice covered hills going to work so I garage it over the harsh months of winter.


Last edited by Ryland; 01-17-2013 at 07:52 PM..
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