Questions on Everything

[AaronMartinSole]

Teach me... (sad face, hands clawed upwards)

I've read the 100+ hypermiling tips a couple times but I've still got a few questions and a few things I haven't gotten down. I drive an automatic.

What is going too slow? What's the optimal speed? What's the optimal way to accelerate?

In the morning, should we warm up the car or immediately drive off?

How many RPM's should we be at when going from full stop? In a 40mph zone, how fast should we be going for the best fuel economy How fast should we be going on the freeway?

Because I've seen charts on ecomodder showing better fuel economy at lower speeds, like 30mph. So, should we try to stay at those low speeds, or try to increase to get to higher, more efficient gears?

How do you pulse and glide? Should you increase RPMs and rev up to say, 70, then coast down to 50? Or should you very slowly go up to 70mpg, and then coast down to 50? Or should you coast up to a different speed and coast down to a different speed?

I've wanted to turn my engine off at red lights, but I hear that can be bad for the car. And car longevity and damage is more important to me than fuel economy, if it is true that it's bad for the car.

I also really want to partially block my grill, but again I'm afraid of damaging the car. So much can go wrong when the cooling system fails, leading to a snowball of death and hell. So how do you know which part to block and not to block?

How does driving with the front driver and passenger windows all the way down affect fuel economy? What if it were just cracked? My car doesn't have air conditioning, and you know people say they believe in fresh air, but I like --really- believe in fresh air. Summer or winter, rain or shine, my bedroom windows are usually open, or at least cracked to have fresh air. There's a lot that can be said on that but that's a different topic.

Could we make a thread where we can pool together the combined total wealth of knowledge, methods, information, skills, tips and tricks involved in making rear wheel skirts and kammbacks? Materials, methods, trials and errors, lessons learned, etc. For instance, I want a kammback that is clear so I can see through my rear window, and also be able to open my trunk, and also be able to have the option of removing the kammback without holes, bolts, nuts, damage to the car. Perhaps that's a bit to ask, but challenges are what makes engineering fun, right? Eh, but if there is no other way, just having the kammback being clear (plastic?) and being able to open the truck would be enough.

So what's the idea about optimal gears? I know fourth gear/overdrive is the most efficient, but I don't know what speed it kicks in, or what the thinking is on that. Like, should we want to maybe increase RPMs to get to a higher speed/gear faster, or turtle slow RPMs either maintained at a slower speed, say 30-40mpg, or going up to top gear/overdrive?

What the idea on neutral coasting? Does it really make a difference on an automatic car?

Does turning on the car's heat affect gas mileage that much? Isn't the air just warmed up by the engine and the coolant?

Has anyone replaced say, their metal hood with a lighter weight carbon fiber hood? I hear that's quite popular with racing enthusiasts but I've never seen one here on ecomodder.

How does octane affect fuel economy? There seems to be mixed opinions about this.

Out of everything though, I most of all want to add mods that non-permanent, and don't leave any marks on the car. I think I've seen some that can be removed. Kammbacks and airdams and wheel skirts and so on. I'm also curious about a mod on the hood which seems to want to block off the windshield wipers if I'm not mistaken.

This is insane, but out of curiosity, is there any way to convert a four cylinder car into a three cylinder car, reasonably?

Also I wanted to share this beautiful Metro I saw on Craigslist.

1995 GEO METRO 3CYL 1.0L A/C 50MPG CITY!!!

Also, is there a reason for all the holes on the rear bumper? I suppose without those holes, the bumper would act as a parachute to slow the car down?

Also, my car has automatic daylight running lamps and has the lights on all the time, day or night. How do I turn them off and disable them during the day while still be able to turn them on at night?

Are aero rims better (http://www.bmw.com/com/en/insights/t...odynamics.html) or pizza pan rims? And how does the air curtain on that bmw work?

[freebeard]

I'll take the first one

What is going too slow?

Speed up in traffic and slow down when the road is clear.

[freebeard]

Heh, I was first.

This could be a good thread; or people may say Too Long; Didn't Read.

In the interests of seeing more response, here's you post run through Summarize by paragraph set to about 20%:

"Because I've seen charts on ecomodder showing better fuel economy at lower speeds, like 30mph. So, should we try to stay at those low speeds, or try to increase to get to higher, more efficient gears?


How does driving with the front driver and passenger windows all the way down affect fuel economy? What if it were just cracked? My car doesn't have air conditioning, and you know people say they believe in fresh air, but I like --really- believe in fresh air. Summer or winter, rain or shine, my bedroom windows are usually open, or at least cracked to have fresh air. There's a lot that can be said on that but that's a different topic.


Could we make a thread where we can pool together the combined total wealth of knowledge, methods, information, skills, tips and tricks involved in making rear wheel skirts and kammbacks? Materials, methods, trials and errors, lessons learned, etc. For instance, I want a kammback that is clear so I can see through my rear window, and also be able to open my trunk, and also be able to have the option of removing the kammback without holes, bolts, nuts, damage to the car. Perhaps that's a bit to ask, but challenges are what makes engineering fun, right? Eh, but if there is no other way, just having the kammback being clear (plastic?) and being able to open the truck would be enough.


Out of everything though, I most of all want to add mods that non-permanent, and don't leave any marks on the car. I think I've seen some that can be removed. Kammbacks and airdams and wheel skirts and so on. I'm also curious about a mod on the hood which seems to want to block off the windshield wipers if I'm not mistaken.


Also, my car has automatic daylight running lamps and has the lights on all the time, day or night. How do I turn them off and disable them during the day while still be able to turn them on at night?


Are aero rims better (http://www.bmw.com/com/en/insights/t...odynamics.html) or pizza pan rims? And how does the air curtain on that bmw work?"

[Gealii]

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

Teach me... (sad face, hands clawed upwards)

I've read the 100+ hypermiling tips a couple times but I've still got a few questions and a few things I haven't gotten down. I drive an automatic.

What is going too slow? What's the optimal speed? What's the optimal way to accelerate?

the optimal speed is getting into your top gear and then slowing down were it doesn't downshift itself. I have found the optimal way is to be slower. I have found keeping the rpms below 2200 is a good way to go until about 45 mph where my torque converter is able to kick in.

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

In the morning, should we warm up the car or immediately drive off?

You should just drive up having your car idle wastes fuel, but if you want your car to be warm try investing in a block heater.

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

How many RPM's should we be at when going from full stop? In a 40mph zone, how fast should we be going for the best fuel economy How fast should we be going on the freeway?

In a 40 you should be going 40 automatics are geared higher it should be a good speed. On the freeway i like to go the speed limit semis should follow and then follow behind not tailgate a semi so others don't get mad at you for going slow

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

Because I've seen charts on ecomodder showing better fuel economy at lower speeds, like 30mph. So, should we try to stay at those low speeds, or try to increase to get to higher, more efficient gears?

30 mph is for 5 speeds because most are able to get into 5th at 30. I'd recommend getting an ultragauge or scanguage to figure out what speed it is for you

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

How do you pulse and glide? Should you increase RPMs and rev up to say, 70, then coast down to 50? Or should you very slowly go up to 70mpg, and then coast down to 50? Or should you coast up to a different speed and coast down to a different speed?

As far as speeds every vehicle is different i tend to do 50-60mph glides in 55 zones. pulse and glide is simply speeding up to 1 speed then putting your transmission in neutral and coasting down to a slower speed and repeat. Make sure when you do this in an auto you use your torque converter or pulse and gliding can be negative.

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

I've wanted to turn my engine off at red lights, but I hear that can be bad for the car. And car longevity and damage is more important to me than fuel economy, if it is true that it's bad for the car.

People say this but there also people on here who have had their starters and motors last longer than most. as far as im concerned if you have to stop for more than 7secs engine off, when you drive the same route you learn what stops require it.

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

I also really want to partially block my grill, but again I'm afraid of damaging the car. So much can go wrong when the cooling system fails, leading to a snowball of death and hell. So how do you know which part to block and not to block?

Once again i'd recommend a gauge the cars stock ones are inaccurate, watch where your car sits once it is heated up then slowly start blocking it til you get to a point that your fan kicks on a lot then take a little bit off. I have my grill fully blocked, but with grand am setups the radiator gets air from underneath still.

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

How does driving with the front driver and passenger windows all the way down affect fuel economy? What if it were just cracked? My car doesn't have air conditioning, and you know people say they believe in fresh air, but I like --really- believe in fresh air. Summer or winter, rain or shine, my bedroom windows are usually open, or at least cracked to have fresh air. There's a lot that can be said on that but that's a different topic.

best to worst. 1)windows up (i run flowthrough vents. 2)windows cracked. 3)windows down

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

Could we make a thread where we can pool together the combined total wealth of knowledge, methods, information, skills, tips and tricks involved in making rear wheel skirts and kammbacks? Materials, methods, trials and errors, lessons learned, etc. For instance, I want a kammback that is clear so I can see through my rear window, and also be able to open my trunk, and also be able to have the option of removing the kammback without holes, bolts, nuts, damage to the car. Perhaps that's a bit to ask, but challenges are what makes engineering fun, right? Eh, but if there is no other way, just having the kammback being clear (plastic?) and being able to open the truck would be enough.

Already have this it is our wiki Car MPG Efficiency Modifications Main - EcoModder . you could make your kamm 2 pieces and hinge it in the middle to allow it to open then the trunk could open how you would connect the top portion idk beings it would be clear, but the bottom portion would just rest on the car.

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

So what's the idea about optimal gears? I know fourth gear/overdrive is the most efficient, but I don't know what speed it kicks in, or what the thinking is on that. Like, should we want to maybe increase RPMs to get to a higher speed/gear faster, or turtle slow RPMs either maintained at a slower speed, say 30-40mpg, or going up to top gear/overdrive?

I up to about 30mph then use 70-90 pct engine load not same as throttle to get the rest of the way up without revving it above 2500rpm

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

What the idea on neutral coasting? Does it really make a difference on an automatic car?

it makes a huge difference my transmission in 4th automatically switches into neutral when coasting but ive gone from about 26mpg to 29 almost 30.

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

Does turning on the car's heat affect gas mileage that much? Isn't the air just warmed up by the engine and the coolant?

i've heard it affects warm up times by slowing them down which is bad for FE. As far as using it, it would only be bad by the sense of an electrical load to use the blower.

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

Has anyone replaced say, their metal hood with a lighter weight carbon fiber hood? I hear that's quite popular with racing enthusiasts but I've never seen one here on ecomodder.

A carbon fiber hood can be used for ecomodders the problem is for the price and the added benefits we would see from them their not worth it.

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

How does octane affect fuel economy? There seems to be mixed opinions about this.

I have found that you should use what is recommended for your vehicle.

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

Out of everything though, I most of all want to add mods that non-permanent, and don't leave any marks on the car. I think I've seen some that can be removed. Kammbacks and airdams and wheel skirts and so on. I'm also curious about a mod on the hood which seems to want to block off the windshield wipers if I'm not mistaken.

windshield wiper deflector it is on our wiki and actually i'm currently making one. just got 1 more coat of paint and install.

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

This is insane, but out of curiosity, is there any way to convert a four cylinder car into a three cylinder car, reasonably?

search ecomodder for cylinder deactivation some1 has done it on here i just don't think it was 4 to 3

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

Also I wanted to share this beautiful Metro I saw on Craigslist.
1995 GEO METRO 3CYL 1.0L A/C 50MPG CITY!!!

We actually have a thread about this already

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

Also, is there a reason for all the holes on the rear bumper? I suppose without those holes, the bumper would act as a parachute to slow the car down?

it was said to release the air, but a belly pan in the rear would most likely be better and reversible

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

Are aero rims better (BMW EfficientDynamics : Aerodynamics) or pizza pan rims? And how does the air curtain on that bmw work?

These bmws wheels are better than most for the main consumer, not ecomodders so brakes get hot etc. Pizza pan rims would be better, considering ecomodders our not usually hard on their brakes.

[resestop]

On some vehicles, setting the emergency brake 1 click will disable the daytime running lights.

rest

[AaronMartinSole]

Gealii, You are my hero. Thank you, thank you, thank you. And resestop, I shall try that. And thank you for that Efficiency Modifications Main link. That is a gold mine. I'm totally going to try aligning my wheels to zero toe. I've only just started glancing at that. Amazing.

[Arragonis]

Originally Posted by AaronMartinSole

Teach me...

The answer is 42. Oh, thats something else however this...

Originally Posted by Gealii

...

is pretty near

Have a browse around, look in the garage and the top lists, find others with your car and browse their threads.

Loads to learn and every day is a school day.

Good luck.