09-24-2010, 01:27 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Independence, KY
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Torque steer can be a problem if you have allot of power on a FWD. Understeer and oversteer are handling issues not drive train that can be addressed with better swaybars. I can take turns at 15mph faster than my friends jeep and stay on pace with another friends mustang.
Snow/ice have never been an issue and I have had to push my moms G35 out of the snow several times. When the weather is bad we take my car because it handles vary well in the snow and does not get stuck.
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09-24-2010, 03:33 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Out of my mind, back in 5
Join Date: Nov 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroModder
Torque steer, understeer, nose-heavy, crowded engine bay, faster front tire wear, limited power/acceleration traction...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comptiger5000
Aeromodder's got it. The torque steer doesn't bother me, but being nose-heavy and tending towards understeer are major issues. I hate understeer, and I tend to push cars a bit in the corners, as it helps me avoid slowing down on the backroads. Even driven gently, FWD cars have worse tire wear (unbalanced front to rear) than RWD cars.
Plus, IMO, FWD sucks in the snow. Yeah, it's a little harder to get stuck, but it's nowhere near as pleasant as far as handling when you're moving.
A RWD converted 2 door Accord with a stick and some aero mods would be perfect.
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Spoken like true 'mericans... Just kidding...
The thing though, you only know what you are used too..
A well setup FWD car will easily beat any RWD car for neutral handling in corners... And again, well setup, the tire wear is only slightly biased, not more than what can be ecpected from a car that both steers and powers with the same pair of wheels...
As for handling in snow... I'll take a FWD car any time... Unless I can have AWD that is...
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10-05-2010, 05:19 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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The PRC.
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EOC - Be careful if you have a turbo - shutting off the engine will leave the oil sitting in the turbo happily boiling away and overheating the seals. I have a thread about this somewhere.
See Wikipedia on Turbo Timers.
Quote:
After a period of driving when a turbocharger has been working hard, it is important to let the engine run at idle speed for a period of time, allowing the compressor assembly to cool from the lower gas temperatures in both the exhaust and intake tracts. At the same time the lubricating oil from the engine is able to circulate properly so the turbine won't burn the lubricating oil that would otherwise be trapped within the charger with the turbine rotating at high speed.
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10-05-2010, 05:23 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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The PRC.
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Sorry DP - FWD vs RWD.
Scandanavian Flick
Quote:
The Scandinavian flick, Finnish flick, Manji Drifting, or Pendulum turn, is a technique used in rallying. While approaching the turn the driver applies a slight steering input to the opposite direction of the turn, then steering into the turn, while sharply lifting off the throttle and (in some cases, depending on speed and type of layout) lightly applying the brakes. This will cause the car to slide sideways facing slightly away from the turn. Then steering input is applied towards the turn and as the driver releases the brake pedal while still holding down the throttle the car will slingshot itself around the corner to the desired direction. Of course, countersteering will again be required to control the induced oversteer.
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I used to use the fast in - lift off - floor it - go round sideways technique all the time in my original Mini (not BMW MINI) and later in my Pug 205.
Until of course that incident with the dry stone wall in Cumbria.
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10-05-2010, 11:04 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Doax, I had done a study last year looking at EOC vs. Coasting while idling. There are a couple factors that should be considered. How many oppertunities to coast you have and the your idle GPH. For me, I only have 10 minutes of coasting available during my 1 hour commute. My idle GPH is around 0.17, so the benefit of EOC vs. Coasting for me is only 2% or less than 1 mpg. For the effort and money to swap in an mtx, the payback would take quite a long time. However, I might find that more oppertunities to EOC if I had a MTX and if I need to replace a transmission, then the cost difference of swaping becomes minimal vs. replacing an ATX.
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10-07-2010, 10:15 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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with just starting to do P&G on my civic I have gotten about a 15-20% gain over a few tanks
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10-08-2010, 01:16 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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Aero Deshi
Join Date: Jan 2010
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I'm with you Bobo, I got the same car and get 37-38 P&Ging all over, I really like that I get about the same mileage city & highway when I'm "supposed" to get only 30mpg in town. Love the Civic. Good job to you getting 43!!
As for FWD Vs RWD Vs AWD, get over yerselves on it, I've driven them all a shatload in all kinds of weather, you just gotta know what you got and use it. I will say, my 1990 Laser (Eclipse/Talon) 135 HP FWD I bought new was a freakin snowmobile, never got stuck in Michigan winters and I drove like a maniac most of the time...it's a wonder I'm alive. (Sold it in 1998 with 247,000 miles on it)
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