02-02-2014, 06:43 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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herp derp Apprentice
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lawrence, KS
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reducing alternator load - light maintenance
i know converting to leds sounds awesome compared to incandescent, but leds can be relatively expensive, and dispite claims of being "super bright" often are not bright enough. so here's an option to keep in mind the next time you have a light out
bulb wattage
2057 26.88 / 6.75
1157 26.88 / 8.26
7528 21.00 / 5.04
921 17.92
922 12.544
906 9.315
194 3.78
168 4.9
161 2.66
many bulbs designs come in a multitude of wattages, at the same cost per bulb. the list is just ones that apply to my car. they are also all common enough to find at wal-mart / meijer.
obviously with the same type of bulb, youre trading watts for brightness. surprisingly my 7528 is currently brighter than my 2057's due to the darkening of the bulbs over time.
7528 on left, aged 2057 on right

Last edited by 2000mc; 02-02-2014 at 07:25 PM..
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02-02-2014, 07:36 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Thanks for posting. Might be useful next time a bulb is out.
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02-02-2014, 10:21 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Thanks for sharing. I error on the side of a brighter light myself. Just recently I switched out my reverse lamps for a solver star version of the bulb. On my 95 sidekick I replaced all the bulbs with new bulbs as some were mirrored over, some were dirty, etc.
I tried various led bulb with the basic led, smd, 1 watt led, etc and sooner or later they would start to flicker and die.
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02-03-2014, 12:23 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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herp derp Apprentice
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I actually went the other way with my reverse lights a couple years ago, I was spending too much time in reverse trying to see where I was going, instead of actually backing up.
Std bulb was a 1156 (27w), I went to a 796(35w). There's even a 795(50w) that would probably melt something
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02-03-2014, 03:29 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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When a tail light is in full sun light, even if it's working 100%, the illumination can be completely invilble as the little globe is completely drowned out by the sun light. The last thing anyone should do is de-rate their stop lights.
After playing with quite a few LEDs, I now have stop lights that will light up the whole neighbours house from across the street at night (ideally they need a day/night mode, but they're about the same as some DOT approved trailer/truck lights any way). Bright LEDs are out there, but you have to be willing to pay for them.
800lms at 6.7W vs ~320ml at 21W 
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02-03-2014, 12:19 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Why not just use LEDs every where possibble?
Lighting is a lot more efficient when you only generate one color, such as only making red and amber light for respective running, brake and turn signal.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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02-03-2014, 12:22 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtamiyaphile
When a tail light is in full sun light, even if it's working 100%, the illumination can be completely invilble as the little globe is completely drowned out by the sun light. The last thing anyone should do is de-rate their stop lights.
800lms at 6.7W vs ~320ml at 21W 
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This is why I replaced my faded brake light lense covers and installed LEDs.
LEDs with good clear lenses can punch through day light that normally drouns out most tail lights.
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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