06-03-2022, 02:28 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Ecomodding Apprentice
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Reducing weight
Drilling brake disks/rotors or lathed for weight, has anybody done it themselves?
Also aluminum fuel tank, maybe to 4 gallon?
I understand if this thread is deleted for lack of substance..
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06-03-2022, 02:33 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Drilling rotors takes a very miniscule amount of mass out of them. Lathing the hats might be substantial but I am guessing cast iron hats are crack prone if they are too thin which is why manufacturers prefer casting them thicker?
I personally would much rather have a larger fuel tank that is heavier. Stopping for fuel is not a good use of time.
Reducing weight to make your car faster makes sense but it doesn't really save a lot of fuel for the effort.
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06-03-2022, 03:30 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Ecomodding Apprentice
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A full tank lasts me 3-4 weeks so going down to 25 litres would still be very efficient timewise and even though E5 is relatively light. Thanks for the reply about the rotors. I also don't have a lathe or pillar drill...
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06-03-2022, 04:34 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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I may or may not've refilled on the side of the road with the motor idling. Rather than drilling the rotors I cryogenically tempered them to extend the service life.
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06-03-2022, 08:56 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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You want carbon ceramic rotors.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
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06-04-2022, 09:49 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Ecomodding Apprentice
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Thanks yes, freezing cast is really backwards for a density reduction technique. Or at worst floating discs with rivets. For now I will skim down 25%, crossdrill then look at ceramics when I have more time 👍
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06-04-2022, 11:59 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Are ceramic rotors generally available or is this thread about a specific application?
If it's backwards, you would find something to disagree with here:
Quote:
https://en.wikipedia.org › wiki › Cryogenic_hardening
Cryogenic hardening - Wikipedia
Cryogenic hardening is a cryogenic treatment process where the material is cooled to approximately −185 °C (−301 °F), usually using liquid nitrogen. It can have a profound effect on the mechanical properties of certain steels, provided their composition and prior heat treatment are such that they retain some austenite at room temperature.
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Temper first and the machining should/will have less chatter.
I will have more data soon[-ish]. The car is at the shop and he will pull a rear drum and inspect it, The picture at Permalink #4 is from 2015.
The point with the gas cans is they can run full, empty or without, depending on circumstance. Usually, it's full in the right to balance the driver's weight.
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06-05-2022, 01:31 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Selecting the lightest tires and wheels possible would net far more benefits than anything with the brakes.
I have read that removing 1lb of rotational mass is like removing 3 lbs of regular mass in terms of acceleration and I'm sure mpg as well
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06-05-2022, 02:13 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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I hate to be rude, but shaving the brake rotors for fuel economy sounds like a boondoggle.
There's a sticky thread at the top of the page, with a list of mods proven to improve fuel economy. That's a great place to start. Best of luck!
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06-05-2022, 05:01 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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I just had rotors turned. New they are about 25mm, they are considered worn out at 24mm.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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