Restore oil additive...
 

Yea...I know additives don't work. :rolleyes:

I usually use some type of additive in my oil plus having used synthetic oils at various times. Other than use of a series of teflon...militec...and moly additives every 3K in a car (8 to 10% gain)...I've never really documented an mpg gain...EXCEPT for now.

Someone else with the same vehicle had posted that he saw a gain by using Restore...so I decided to give it a go. Difference is that his wagon burns more oil than mine...a qt each 1500 miles vs 5 to 7K miles for my car....so I didn't really expect it to work.

So on my last tank I got almost 37 mpg...vs a previous summer best of around 35 mpg. Also had a bit of a choke problem...and it was definitely filled to the point of some on the ground...so I'm expecting 38 mpg eventually. But definitely a 6% or so gain from best mpg so far.

If anyone tries this...you should expect to see solid mpg results on the second tank. I don't trust seat of the pants so much...but I do believe the engine runs smoother and I can accelerate using less throttle than before.

I expect to keep using it...but will probably use only 1/2 can each time after the first oil change...7K between changes. Or...if you change oil every 3K...maybe a can every other oil change?


Here are some links and text posted for your benefit...so you don't have to Google...I've also bolded some important points:


Restore Engine Restorer

“ENGINE RESTORER” IS NOT AN OIL ADDITIVE According to the company... each can of Engine Restorer contains billions of CSL micro-particles in suspension in a neutral motor oil of high quality. Each CSL micro-particle contains Lead (40%) dispersed uniformly throughout a Copper (60%) matrix with Silver.

Engine Restorer is added to the motor oil but it is not an oil additive. An oil additive, by definition, is a product which is added to automotive oil in the crankcase with the intended purpose of modifying the oil characteristics such as viscosity, detergency, or foaming. Engine Restorer is not an oil additive in this sense. It is rather an engine additive because it acts on the engine itself playing a double role. The CSL particles fill scratches, grooves and other worn out areas between the piston and the cylinder wall in the engine. The CSL particles provide maximum natural lubrication due to their percentage of lead, even under very high temperature.

The action of RESTORE reduces friction and rebuilds metal surfaces, which restores lost power and reduces oil & fuel consumption. It works effectively wherever friction and wear cut scratches in metal surfaces, such as cylinder walls, crankshafts and bearings. Ya, Right! And I have a bridge for sale too!


Engine restore Does it work?

I beg to differ with this statement. My senior year in highschool, I did an "experiment" for a 4-H project to see whether or not some of these so-called snake oil additives did any good. I took a well used 3.5hp briggs motor, pulled it apart and photographed both the cylinder walls and piston skirts. I also measured compression, and did a "seat of my pants" power feeling on my old go-cart. I poured in a measured amount of Engine Restore, keeping engine restore/engine oil ratios the same. I ran the engine for 40 (I figured 2000 miles for a conservative oil change, 2000 miles/60 mph average= 40 hours.) hours at varying RPMs, shut it down and did compression tests again. It had jumped amazingly, and I changed oil, added the same amount of engine restore, and repeated the 40 hour engine run. I measure compression, more increase was noted, and I put the engine back on the old go-cart. Even for a small 3.5hp briggs, I noticed an increase in power. To not be biased, I used a friend who did not know about the test, and he noted the increase in performance as well. Again I disassembled the engine, photographed the cylinder walls and piston skirts again, and they were also notable smoother. Though I understand that a small Briggs engine is much different that a small block in size and strength, the components are similar as is the general function. I received a blue ribbon at the state fair, and have become a believer of the stuff.

...

Hi Joe, just to correct your post. RESTORE works great with turbo engines. we have smoked the wheels of our super-chipped Volvo 740 turbo at the Eastcoast Extreme Bentwater drag racing for several years with RESTORE in the engine and it just gets faster and faster. It is my daily drive year round too. thanks.

...

I have used it several times and have only had good results. I used to work as a shuttle driver and we used Ford E350 vans, when the mileage started getting around 200k I would start to put Restorer in them. Every engine I put it in "seemed" to have more power. My partner and I would both notice a 1-2 mpg increase in gas mileage when it was used. This was noted over and over, not a one time thing.

...

I've used it in many engines from my 1939 Ford/Ferguson 9N tractor to my newest vehicle. The 9N tractor reqiured non detergent oil which is impossible to find so I started using detergent oil & it started smoking soon after. So I tried Restore and it stopped smoking. I've used it in my engines for at least 15yrs. I have found that if you add it to the oil and immediatly run the engine up to Operating Temp. Then let the Eng. cool & not use it for a week or 2 it works amazingly better. Why? The only reason I can think of is it adhears & penetrates the cylinder walls scratches more deeply. The 1st time I tried this with the 9N I let it sit for about 4 weeks after adding the blue goo. Damn thing hasn't smoked or used oil since. I haven't notice any gumming or sludge in my engines. They seem cleaner from less blowby. I say if it's a high mileage tired ride try it. If it doesn't work try a Rering kit.



Amazon.com: Customer Reviews: Restore RES60019 Engine Restorer 8 Cylinder. 19 oz.

Question: Why are otherwise intelligent people interested in getting inside their car's engine and somehow affecting it?

Answer: I have no idea.

Without a doubt, this is a super hi-performance oil additive! The only difference between this 8 cylinder product and the 6 and 4 cylinder products is the amount of fluid product you get. This 8 cylinder product is 19 oz., the 6 cyl. product is 15 oz. and the 4 cyl. product is 11 oz.. From what they tell me [on their website-[RESTOREUSA.COM] and from my experience, the fluid volume is the only difference between the products by cylinders.


WHAT THE PRODUCT CLAIMS:

Regardless of the size of the can, this product claims to be the only product that contains "RESTORE'S" proprietary CSL formula. They claim that "CSL" possesses unique properties that will "fill in" and "seal micro-leaks" in the "cylinder wall" of your engine and mine. They claim the effect of sealing these "micro-leaks" is the elimination of "blow-by", higher engine compression and more apparent horsepower that we can feel.

WHAT I HAVE NOTICED AFTER 3 YEARS OF INTENSIVE USE:

After years of using oil additives which increase viscosity and the risk of blowing oil seals in the engine [I've done that.], I tried this product. It does not increase viscosity, but it does increase the gas mileage [10-12%] and the performance of my 1998 V6 Plymouth Voyager which now has almost 140,000 miles on it. Also, it quieted the noisy lifters and made the engine much easier to turn over on very cold mornings.

During the summers, I do use a viscosity-increasing additive ["NO SMOKE"] which I find to be better at reducing the engine's tendency to burn a little oil [quart every 2,000 miles], especially at high speeds for sustained periods. Having used this product for several years I do feel more comfortable using "Restore" in colder weather as I have noticed a greater tendency to use oil during the summer with it and the faint smell of exhaust fumes if our back van windows are open when we first start the engine. On the plus side, I have also noticed that the benefit of using this treatment lasts at least several months after running the car without it, and I gauge this by the decline in gas mileage that typically does not occur for at least 4,000 miles of driving without it.

Having said that, "Restore" increases gas mileage and is better in cold weather in every way. Now that Old Man Winter is nearly here again, I'll be repurchasing the little silver can very soon. Brrr!

[I have NO affiliation with any product or company]

....

full disclosure: I do own stock in the company that makes Restore and get $.05 every time a can is sold. :thumbup:

Juuuuust kidding.... :cool:

...

I used it once in one of my other 200k+ mile 6000 wagons. I added it at an oil change, same oil as always. After about 500 miles into the change, I definitely noticed an increase in power. Then after about 2000 or 2500 miles into the change, the gains went away fairly quickly. I never used it again because I felt guilty about dumping that blue goo into my engine.

If you put lead in your oil, when you suck oil vapors through your PCV valve, and it burns, and goes through your cat, it will poison the catalyst and destroy it in quick order.

I would not recommend using this product on any car that will have to pass an emissions test at some point.

the additibves leave from whence they came. this means fouled plugs. I tried it on a v8 years ago. it is miraculous summers, and shrinking pukers in the cool wetahers. A true chamber and walls and bearing surfaces is the only way to stay real..and lastly, what happens to particles that do stay in thier place with thousands and millions of carbon generating fires? It takes the cylinder heads with it eventually..and if you still use EGR in your emissions. lookout, here comes nuclear...

I want to add it to my cereal, and especially my shampoo.

I couldn't help but notice that you (OP) say you found gains from using Teflon additives in your oil.

Maybe this is the time to point out that DuPont (the maker of Teflon) specifically maintains no knowledge of any advantages from using their product in motor vehicle engines.

More information, including a full report:Snake Oil! - Is That Additive Really A Negative? .: Articles

Futher information:
The Science of it All Part II

I've had excellent results using Auto-RX. That and Techron are the only additives to do exactly what they claim to do in my experience.

Auto-RX is a lot of esters that very slowly dissolve gunk and varnish without harming your seals. I can vouch for it, having used it in the past on my Buick, where it stoppered up a seeping valve cover gasket nicely.

After doing the math with a 0.05 gph drop, I figured out that it's saving me about $30 in gas (assuming 0.05 gph less gas used, 15 hours/tank, 20 tanks in 7k miles, and gas at $2.50 a gallon) at every 7k mile oil change. With a dose running about $4, that's still money in my pocket.

Auto-RX also doesn't make ridiculous claims as to it's performance, and dosen't pose a risk to emissions systems. Auto-RX for an engine makes sense.

Anyone seen that "Guaranteed to pass" stuff? I've never played with it, b/c I don't need emissions inspection yet.

Other than that, I use SeaFoam (petroleum distillates) and Marvel Mystery Oil.

MMO is one that most people consider a joke, because it feels "gritty". That's because it is. It's machine oil with a crystalline polishing compound added. It's designed to polish metals in your engine, to help reduce friction.

When I get a new vehicle, I always change the oil, and use a quart of MMO. Over the next couple weeks, the MMO burns out, and I add oil every time it's low to keep the oil volume up.

I don't have empirical data showing what works and what doesn't, etc... all I have is "I saw it" evidence, which is good enough for me. I've been using it for years, and it doesn't cost that much, so it's not something I'm worried about, really. I also use it to clean gum/varnish and sludge build up, so even if it does nothing for the engine, it at least cleans it out!

The Garuanteed to pass stuff works. It stops oil from burning off, thus lowering your HC component in your exhuast. That lets the cat burn other stuff better. It's the only way we could get my dads old 1994 Chevy Astro van to pass.

Last tank at 38.7....around 11% above last year's best summer mpg of 35. Previous tank came in much lower for some reason.

Hello! Additives get some stick don't they? I have a Nissan Serrena with head gasket/head failure. My Garage quote £1000Sterling to fix it. I paid £500, plus my old car (£795 he wanted). My loan shark again lent us cash. I bought it. It was the middle of school holidays last August, kids wanted to go to the beach. He told that its got a new water pump, so I figured it okay. Damn thing kept overheating. So where do I find another Grand to pay for it?? Easy, I bought a bottle of K-Seal
K-Seal, K-Tek, QuikSteel, QuikTape, Just-For-Copper
Poured it into the radiator, took it to another Garage because mine scorned K-Seal, told them what the story was, they re bled the system and pressure tested it and let it run for 30 minutes non stop.
That was February this year 2009. I've driven a couple of thousand miles or more, the only issue I get is that its smelly at 90mph, the temperature gauge doesn't move, it gots a little shirty back in the heatwave 30deg celcius, but its still okay, I was stuck in a traffic jam at the time but as soon as we got moving the tempeature went down and we carry on. The tempeature needle never goes above centre, this is a mid mount engine with an engine fan and 2 radiator fans up front. The engine fan cuts in and out if the suns out:) the radiator fans don't come on.
K-Seal apparently fills tiny cracks. I was getting both positive and negative feedback all over the web. I've seen You Tube videos, one had a Dodge pickup that was steaming and clonking, K-Seal was poured in and after a minute or so, the engine calms down and begins to return to normal.
I paid £15 sterling for a bottle including P & P, and my engine is fine. I keep the empty bottle in the car as a souvenir. To me, it was a bottle of magic potion.To my kids, trips to the seaside, the forest and every other outing our people carrier is good for.
Now, I'm learning to drive efficiently.
Thank you

Mike

Tried Ferrosilicate Restoration yet?
 

Aloha Y'all,

I suggest you check out RVS Technology (please Google it, I don't have enough posts yet to allow links): metal ceramic treatment for the restoration of your engine, transmission and differential for information on a "new" (to you) technology that rebuilds the surfaces of ferrous metallics in your vehicle. Essentially its a magnesium silicate mineral slurry suspended in a gel that mixes with either engine oil or transmission fluid and undergoes a chemical transformation at the wear points, burning off the magnesium atom and bonding to the ferrous atom to create a smooth new surface.

As well, there's a couple of YouTube links showing this technology at use in an attempted restoration of a power steering unit with whining bearings: just please search for RVS technology.

Sorry about the lack of links -- you'll have to cut and paste. Please bear in mind that I'm only 21 with 40 years of experience.

I love reading about snake oil. It's entertaining, and reminds me of all the big claims about the hydrogen generators :rolleyes:

The thing about MMO having a bit of abrasive in it worries me a bit. I've always thought it was good stuff for cleaning up dirty engines and injectors, but I sure as heck don't want to be removing material!

That restore stuff sounds plausible enough to work without grinding stuff away. Seems like I've used it before to keep a dying engine going, but can't remember for sure.

I had to pass emmisions once in Colorado, and the car i had blew some nasty numbers. I got a can of some sort of carb cleaner, not the aerosol type. (it may have been berrymans b-12). The can of carb cleaner I slowly poured into the throttle body, which made the ole car spit sputter, and finally blow some nasty oil out of some sort of a tube. I also put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank. I went back for testing that same day and the guy looked at me like I pulled off a miracle when he tested it. He asked me "what'd you do to it??" And after finding out I'd passed, I told him I cleaned out the throttle body.

I've also heard of a guy that passed emmisions after running a tank of gas that had a couple gallons of biodiesel in it.

Frank Lee wrote:
Maybe we could just have a thread called "what works & what doesn't"? ;)

IMHO, these additives are proven to work:

The "guaranteed to pass" stuff, which is a fuel additive, does work to reduce emissions (temporarily).

Some automatic transmission additives that contain solvents can work (if your car is over 20 years old and has age-related, hardened seals that are sticking, or hanging up).

Radiator sealants can work - the same as the old standby, ground black pepper also works, by floating around in the system and plugging up the radiator leak, if it's not too big.

But claims of motor oil additives increasing fuel economy? Nope.

My vote is with the guys who mentioned snake oil, feel-good shampoo and the 'breakfast of champions'. :D

MMO has abrasives... then again, so does anything else on the market with any kind of solids in it... motor oil included.

Oh - and your toothpaste... that has silica in it. Happy brushing!

Biodiesel is supposed to be an extremely strong solvent. That's why when swtiching to biodiesel, it is generally recommended to change your fuel filter after a few tanks because it can plug up quickly. It's also the best lubricant you can add to diesel fuel, better than any other diesel fuel additives on the market. I run a 200:1 vegetable oil mix in my Metro. Not as clean s biodiesel because it still has the glycerin in it, but still better than nothing.

HOLY CARP I was going to mention the vegetable oil myself but was afraid to get laughed off the forum. I've used veggie oil before with good results but it's so off the wall people think I'm selling snake oil when I mention it. I tried it out of desperation once when I was on a road trip in my Explorer and it was running like garbage. I figured veg oil was ALMOST biodiesel, so maybe it'll work and it sure seemed to smooth things out. But it seemed such a simple way to get the thing going again.......

You mean happy polishing!

Before:
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...4202010004.jpg

After:
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...4202010003.jpg

Tooth paste only? I usually wetsand, then use tooth paste for the final polish... I've used tooth paste to restore laser discs, CD's, and DVD's, as well.

Gel toothpaste ONLY! (using a damp t-shirt) :thumbup:

Didn't take much elbow grease either...

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...042010a002.jpg

I counter with:

http://myzerowaste.com/wp-content/up...g-82737737.jpg

I'll have to try using just toothpaste on Gerald... Wasn't really interested in sanding the lights, but I do have to polish the windshield as well. That'll be alot of toothpaste. :P

Amazingly it only took wee lil dollops- I'd say, about the same amount I use brushing teeth 2x- per headlight. I was so tickled I did some other neighborhood cars too!

What brand? Got a pic? (Since we're on the pic thing right now...)

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...4202010005.jpg

Close-Up Gel

Gonna have to get some tomorrow while I'm out.

LOL i used a kit I bought from Auto Zone for 20 bucks that included a bunch of sanding discs, polishing compound, and a disc that could be put into a drill bit. Elbow grease? I'm too lazy for that so long as there's electricity to run my Ryobi drill!

I have to admit though, that is a great result for little money.

Christ, you're showing your apparent age. Laser discs? That's starting to go the way of phonograph records!

btw frank, that's a nice car. Is it a wagon? Alsways have had a soft spot for Ford products.

I'm 25. :) No joke.

I've always heard to use white-tooth paste. And have used it on CDs as well.

Wow you must be into vintage media then. I remember when laser discs were the best thing for watching movies, but they were expensive. Of course, now I'm showing my apparent age :P

My kids have only rarely seen records, and it's funny to talk to them about it. Ever tried to describe what a record does to a kid that learned how to get onto the internet before the age of 7?

Yeah, I just was asked to clean up a few for a guy (collection of about 100 discs). That's the only way I know what they are, besides media classes in school (so long ago...)...

The thing about records, well, yeah, I've tried to explain both those and wax barrels to people. Never turns out well.

I grew up listening to my dad's Styx collection in vinyl.


I also tried a can of the Restore oil additive. Haven't noticed a difference, though.

You tried a can of restore on your dad's Styx collection???? Wow, never heard THAT one before!

I remember listening to Christmas music and Neil Diamond on vinyl.

There really is something about vinyl to bring out the best in music.

'98 Sable wagon with the hot rod Yamaha engine. It's a Craigslist Special!

Going from the coast to the midwest in it right now and I have to say I'm impressed with it!

I wondered if the gel would be "different" somehow from the white.

Can't imagine the white stuff working any better!

a Yamaha engine in a Sable? You're pulling my chain I think....................

The Sable, Taurus, and associated autos had a Yamaha engine installed in them. As did Rangers, and anything else w/ the 3.0/3.2 Vulcan motors.

Ford worked with Yamaha to design the new valvetrain and top end of the engine, while retaining the basic 2.8/2.9 block design (not interchangeable) for simplicity.

The 3.0/3.2 should swap in place of a 1.6/1.9, 2.0, 2.3, 2.8 engine.

All those engines are also directly swappable between FWD and RWD applications, although some things are slightly different, such as head gaskets (3.0), so make sure you remember which car your engine came from.

The swaps only require moving/exchanging some parts from the transplant vehicle.

wow , didn't know Yamaha made anything bigger than motorcycle engines.....

Never seen a Yamaha outboard motor? They make some great boat racing engines, including a 4.2L and several V6 outboards.