09-16-2021, 09:33 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Yup, that’s exactly what it looks like when sand & dirt start eating at the blade. Raising the deck a 1/2”-3/4” will cure most, if not all of that. The wings are necessary. If you grind the wings off, it will not produce lift or a satisfactory cut.
I know, I tried... 😐
Just buy new blades, raise the deck and you’ll be happy.
p.s.
I cut 6 acres.
>
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09-16-2021, 10:37 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Oh I always have spare blades on hand.
I'll try to weld them up, maybe get a little more use out out of them.
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1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
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09-17-2021, 12:29 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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The spare blades sound like an opportunity for cryonic tempering.
If you can do the tips one at a time, you'd only need to boil off maybe a quart of liquid nitrogen.
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09-17-2021, 03:10 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Heat treatment doesn't really seem to help with abrasive wear.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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09-17-2021, 03:22 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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That's why you use cold treatment.
I did my brake drums and rotors based on reading about how it is popular with police department maintenance shops and racers. It can extend the parts service life 3 or 4x.
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10-17-2022, 05:38 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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I built up some blades with L56 wire, the L56 wires appears to be more resistant to wear than the 1040 alloy the blades are made from.
So my idea build up worn blades with L56, homogenize, forge and heat treat them.
Also I can smell the exhaust so I put a tractor style straight pipe that's about 5 feet long on the riding mower.
These 19.5Hp engines run a bit hot and the head gaskets are known to pop, warping the head. Not scavenging the exhaust can cause an engine to run hot, pop head gaskets and what not.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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10-17-2022, 05:50 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
So my idea build up worn blades with L56, homogenize, forge and heat treat them.
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Damascus steel lawn mower blades?
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10-17-2022, 06:08 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Damascus steel is overkill.
Plus I would have to get the length right, put holes in the right spots, plus Damascus would probably be too hard and would want to crack.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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The Following User Says Thank You to oil pan 4 For This Useful Post:
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10-18-2022, 12:08 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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How about adding The wrinkly welded on stuff found on earth moving equipment buckets and scoops added for anti-wear?
Hard edge or tack? I know you have the welding equipment.
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10-18-2022, 02:25 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piotrsko
How about adding The wrinkly welded on stuff found on earth moving equipment buckets and scoops added for anti-wear?
Hard edge or tack? I know you have the welding equipment.
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It's called hard facing and there's 2 types. Homogeneous and non-homogeneous.
Homogeneous uses high alloy with chromium, tungsten and manganese makes an incredibly hard weld for impact applications.
Non-homogeneous uses chonky chromium carbide crystals for maximum abrasion resistance but has terrible impact resistance.
I already tried that. It works superbly on brush shredder blades since they are like 5/8 of an inch thick and don't flex. And not so well on lawn mower blades. The homogeneous weld cracks under normal use on mower blades, the Crack propagates and breaks the blade.
But I have used laser-edge blades where the blades use chromium carbide brazed on the the blade before the blade is heat treated, those are awesome, but not available for my 48 inch mower.
See post 20
https://ecorenovator.org/forum/showt...+faster&page=2
I may try to recreate my own laser-edge blades.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
Last edited by oil pan 4; 10-18-2022 at 02:48 PM..
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