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Old 04-05-2014, 12:40 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Round tubing vs square tubing was being discussed for grill protection, not airdam construction from my understanding.... Right?

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Old 04-05-2014, 12:51 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The bumper shape and material choice shouldn't matter much, especially if it doesn't extend above, below, or to the sides of the vehicle. In other words, don't increase frontal area and you should be fine.

Since clearance is a concern, go with an under tray instead of an air dam. The under tray is slightly more efficient than an air dam at reducing drag.
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:13 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sporty Modder View Post
Round tubing vs square tubing was being discussed for grill protection, not airdam construction from my understanding.... Right?
Design of a square tube bumper with aero in mind is what I wanted opinions on, with the addition of an airdam while I was working on the front end to help offset the additional drag of the bumper.
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Old 04-05-2014, 12:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I just noticed the photos posted in the original starting post, pretty much what I imagined except for all of the upper grille protection.

There is a forum poster which once offered up some used conveyor belt material for cost of shipping, but I could not get a hold of him when I needed it. I'll send him a PM and see if he has anything about 18" wide/deep, which is what I'm guessing you will need.
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Old 04-05-2014, 03:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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square tubing

Quote:
Originally Posted by graver555 View Post
Design of a square tube bumper with aero in mind is what I wanted opinions on, with the addition of an airdam while I was working on the front end to help offset the additional drag of the bumper.
A deer-proof 3" square-tube bumper would have the potential to destroy attached flow at all the forward leading edges,raising your Cd from 0.42 to maybe 0.70 or worse.It would be aerodynamic Armageddon.
You'd need to encase the entire thing inside a 'skin' and radius all the edges to at least what GM did originally or you'll end up with a HUMMER H-1 or 1971 JEEP CJ.
If the airdam goes below the bottom of the truck,without going to within 3-inches of the ground,it'll raise drag.If it goes within 3-inches of the ground it will hit everything,every time you go up or down a driveway or park,nose to curb.
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:50 PM   #16 (permalink)
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It would really have the potential to hurt that bad? I find that difficult to understand how it would hurt that bad.
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:14 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Black Venom Bull Bar - Bull Bar Manufacturer and Wholesale Supplier from Spyder Industries, Usa
What about something like this, with the bottom widened to the width of the truck, and the top just above the Chevy symbol on my truck.

What protection vs drag would this design offer?
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Old 04-06-2014, 11:47 AM   #18 (permalink)
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It looks like from the tiny image you first posted, that you can angle grind cut or torch off the upper part of the frame, flip and rotate and reattach to form a large chin spoiler or air dam.

Aerodynamics Photos by kach22i | Photobucket


I'm not sure what the Bullbar you linked to will be attached to. However it's probably going to be worse for aero than what you have put together yourself.

There was someone recently in the forum with a puck-up truck, which I think may have been intended for towing. They came up with a blast plate looking air deflector (semi-grill block) which they imagined would toss the air up and over the roof and trailer in tow. It might be worth looking into, for educational purposes (not to copy), many good comments and observations. I'll post it later if I can find it.
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Last edited by kach22i; 04-06-2014 at 11:55 AM..
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Old 04-06-2014, 12:12 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graver555 View Post
It would really have the potential to hurt that bad? I find that difficult to understand how it would hurt that bad.
Yes the potential is there... If you look at the front of your trucks front in respect to air flow you will notice everything is radiused or rounded, even my 84 toyota(described as boxy) has rounded/radiused edges. For aero the worst thing you can do is add square leading edge's( actually square trailing edge's). I am sure aerohead has a chart. The problem is turbulance , instead of pushing/splitting the air gently the square edges shove it aside. The least impact on aero would be the Black Venom bar you linked to. In my experience with deer impacts they are usually quartering, meaning you hit with one corner of the car.
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Old 04-06-2014, 12:47 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kach22i View Post
It looks like from the tiny image you first posted, that you can angle grind cut or torch off the upper part of the frame, flip and rotate and reattach to form a large chin spoiler or air dam.

Aerodynamics Photos by kach22i | Photobucket


I'm not sure what the Bullbar you linked to will be attached to. However it's probably going to be worse for aero than what you have put together yourself.

There was someone recently in the forum with a puck-up truck, which I think may have been intended for towing. They came up with a blast plate looking air deflector (semi-grill block) which they imagined would toss the air up and over the roof and trailer in tow. It might be worth looking into, for educational purposes (not to copy), many good comments and observations. I'll post it later if I can find it.
I am sorry, I think I miscommunicated, that picture is not from my truck, but my inspiration. However I think it would work pretty well. In your redesign, would it rake forward or backwards tho, as I think if it was angled forwards, it would have a chance of flipping the deer up. I would want the uppermost part to strike first if I remember.

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