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Should you use E15?
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I use hE15 in my 2011 Insight.
If Fox says it's is bad I feel reassured in knowing that is is in fact good. But Fox is not the only one reporting this: http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/n...-cars/1735793/ The ethanol industry does not agree as could be expected: http://ethanolproducer.com/articles/...-irresponsible Mix in some criticism on the production of ethanol: http://bigstory.ap.org/article/secre...n-power-push-1 So let's take it straight from the horses mouth: http://newsroom.aaa.com/tag/aaa-e15/ Wait, is that dated November 15th? That's so 2013... And so are the other items, the Fox item even going back to 2012. Old news. |
If your car is is flex-fuel compatable, E15 or even E100 is safe. If it is not, the 10% that is now mandated by the federal government, is damaging it. This stuff is destroying lawnmowers, generators, boats and cars that sit for days at a time.
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All I can say is that this hE15 blend they sell over here has 0.6% water content to protect against ethanol erosion.
Ethanol in its purest form is very volatile, but just 4% (volume) of water binds it enough to make it behave more like a fluid. As it is quite hard to extract the last bit of water out, they just leave it; reducing the cost of production as a bonus. While a high percentage of water is detrimental, as you can imagine, matching the ethanol content with 1/25 of water does take the sharp edge off. My car was approved for E10 (even without water content). I think it'll be fine. This scare news is old, I'd like to see proof rather than opinions or I won't believe it. It would have been banned long since if it were that bad. |
Wow Tex, you really are a noob.
Faux Noise. :rolleyes: E15- makes no difference to me, unless the price break isn't proportional to E10/E85. I'll keep running E10 or E15 in brutal winter temps, E85 in the heat of summer, and proportional blends inbetween. :thumbup: BTW- I mistakenly filled the snowblower with E85 and you know what? The darn thing started just fine in the cold! I wasn't expecting that. The only thing I noticed was that I had to be slower opening the choke, and I couldn't open it that last notch. Otherwise it ran perfect. |
this is page 296 from your owner's manual.
Your car IS designed to run E10. Older cars and small engines are not. Help assure your vehicle’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you drive during the first 600 miles (1,000 km). During this period: Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration. You should also follow these recommendations with an overhauled or exchanged engine, or when the brakes are replaced. Your vehicle is designed to operate on unleaded gasoline with a pump octane number of 87 or higher. Use of a lower octane gasoline can cause a persistent, heavy metallic rapping noise that can lead to engine damage. Do not change the oil until the scheduled maintenance time. Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles (300 km). In addition, in order to maintain good performance, fuel economy, and emissions control, we strongly recommend, in areas where it is available, the use of gasoline that does NOT contain manganese-based fuel additives such as MMT. We recommend using quality gasolines containing detergent additives that help prevent fuel system and engine deposits. Use of gasoline with these additives may adversely affect performance, and cause the malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel to come on. If this happens, contact your authorized dealer for service. Some gasoline today is blended with oxygenates such as ethanol or MTBE. Your vehicle is designed to operate on oxygenated gasoline containing up to 10% ethanol by volume and up to 15%MTBE by volume. Do not use gasoline containing methanol If you notice any undesirable operating symptoms, try another service station or switch to another brand of gasoline. For further important fuel-related information for your vehicle, or information on gasoline that does not contain MMT, visit Owner Link at . In Canada, visit for additional information on gasoline. owners.honda.com Honda.ca Official Website of Honda Canada Inc. Break-in Period Fuel Recommendation |
I think it would have to sit for more than days to wreck things. Lemme put it this way: I've dumped E85 into almost everything I own, small engines included. I haven't found wreckage that I can attribute to ethanol, and I've been playing with this stuff since the '80s.
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Frank,
I didn't say they won't run on it, I said they will incure damage if E-XX is left in the tank. if you run the tank of your snowblower empty after each use, there will probably be no damage. Take you insults somewhere else. im sure there is a 16 year old girl making her first post in intoductions that you can outwit. |
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Please do not copy whole pages in your post, that is copyright infringement and bad net etiquette. |
No, I don't run the blower dry each time.
As noted, been running this stuff in various concentrations for decades. Lessee, what are all the bad things that happened... I had to replace a clear plastic line on an old McCollough to get it going... I don't have the history of the thing though, maybe it was run on E0 it's whole life and the line went bad just from age? Dunno. I filled the V-Max with straight E-85 once. It didn't like it; had to ride the rest of the way with the choke slightly closed. I generally don't run higher than E10 in carb'd stuff, but I have run a strong blend through a carb'd '76 Chevy pickup and it ran just fine. I wouldn't be surprised, though, if I have to replace hardened rubber fuel lines at some point. I will experiment with E15 in the carb'd stuff to see how it goes. I pushed the envelope a little too much in my early days of using straight E85... had a tank full of it when it got brutally cold- like today (-26F) :mad: - and that car would not start. Yeah, don't use it in the cold. But this is about WRECKING stuff. I've never replaced a fuel filter or an injector or anything except that McCullough line and our State has had "gasohol" since the late '70s. |
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