Transmission work (Suzuki Burgman)

[janvos39]

Manual actuated clutch on Burgman. I think this can be done by making some special shaft parts for a clutch out of a bike with manual gearbox. Probably the actuation of the clutch has to go through the center of the shaft due to the location of the external bearing for the shaft.
Another thing is the load on the clutch mechanism. Since you cannot put the gearbox in neutral, this mechism must contain a decent bearing.All the time for a stop the clutch needs to be used.

[The Atomic Ass]

Originally Posted by janvos39

Manual actuated clutch on Burgman. I think this can be done by making some special shaft parts for a clutch out of a bike with manual gearbox. Probably the actuation of the clutch has to go through the center of the shaft due to the location of the external bearing for the shaft.
Another thing is the load on the clutch mechanism. Since you cannot put the gearbox in neutral, this mechism must contain a decent bearing.All the time for a stop the clutch needs to be used.

This is true. Although I would already the lever in place if I were to go with a hydraulic clutch, merely combine the 3 braking systems into the right lever and use the left for the clutch.

I needs to get me a big giant socket to get that clutch loose.

[Ptero]

The CVT on my Honda Big Ruckus is so draggy in engine-off coasting that I hate it.

[The Atomic Ass]

Originally Posted by Ptero

The CVT on my Honda Big Ruckus is so draggy in engine-off coasting that I hate it.

They're all like that because...

*drumroll*

They're dragging the engine.

Also, unless your Ruckus is FI, turning the kill-switch off saves exactly zero gasoline. Carburetors continue to pump gas as long as the engine keeps turning.

[Ptero]

Also, unless your Ruckus is FI, turning the kill-switch off saves exactly zero gasoline. Carburetors continue to pump gas as long as the engine keeps turning.

No. The coasting technique for a Big Ruckus requires slowing to 10 or 15 mph and killing the engine (and the electric fuel pump). This way the belt does not turn the engine when coasting but it does drag on the clutch assembly, significantly degrading the efficiency of the coast. I have also considered using a larger belt with a spring-loaded idler that would allow the loop to ride off the rear face when released for coasting.

[The Atomic Ass]

Originally Posted by Ptero

No. The coasting technique for a Big Ruckus requires slowing to 10 or 15 mph and killing the engine (and the electric fuel pump). This way the belt does not turn the engine when coasting but it does drag on the clutch assembly, significantly degrading the efficiency of the coast. I have also considered using a larger belt with a spring-loaded idler that would allow the loop to ride off the rear face when released for coasting.

Same, although I just kill the engine at speed to drag me down anyway, as about the only time I can really kill the engine aside from hills, is when I have to slow down for traffic.

I would suspect you would throw the belt off quite often. It also presents the problem of not being able to bump-start if needing to be running again. Which can wear on the battery, unless you've done like me and put a proper starting battery in.

[Ptero]

I would suspect you would throw the belt off quite often. It also presents the problem of not being able to bump-start if needing to be running again. Which can wear on the battery, unless you've done like me and put a proper starting battery in.

No problem is apparent with this coasting technique. I've done it occasionally over several thousand miles. Even pulled the cover immediately afterwards the first time to check for point belt wear. Nothing. I regard the technique as harmless. You can also restart the engine without stressing anything below 20 mph. "Bump start" is not possible. I have not tried to start the engine at speed.

But due to the drag, there is little opportunity to receive a mileage gain except on long, steep runs.

Also, it is not possible to "throw the belt." You would have to break it.

[The Atomic Ass]

Well, an update on mine... I took out the rollers again, and weighted the 4 I hadn't previously. Now all are 25.9 grams, +/- 0.1 gram. Clutch action didn't change significantly as it did the first time, so I'm guessing cleaning out the whole mess caused my clutch to change.

The clutch shoes are nearly done, so I'll be replacing the clutch at some point in the near future when funds become available. I'll probably invest in a Union Material HiT clutch, and see if they can't modify it for a manual control.