Vw pickup MAX mpg build!

[Sneakybassturd69]

On the air dam could I make 2 small ones in front of the wheels to just guide air around them and let the belly pan do the rest. And minimize the the amount of surface space in the front and let the belly pan pic up the slack.

[Sneakybassturd69]

Weight reduction wise I am thinking using a plexiglass material for the front and side Windows and making the side Windows stay up permanent and taking out all the junk in side the doors, swapping the exhaust manifold for headers. The interior is all ready stripped and I plan on only having one racing seat in the car. Using a fiber glass hood. Is there any where else I can shed some weight besides going on a diet

[Sneakybassturd69]

I want to thank every one for the information so far. Does anyone know of a aftermarket injector with better fuel atomization?

[Sneakybassturd69]

Also I can drive 45 most places no problem very few people on the roads where I live and we have really nice back roads too in my area.

[UFO]

Originally Posted by Sneakybassturd69

I want to thank every one for the information so far. Does anyone know of a aftermarket injector with better fuel atomization?

This is an indirect injection engine, my guess is the injector is designed to stream onto a hot surface in the pre-chamber for atomization. An injection designed to atomize might not work very well at all.

[Sneakybassturd69]

That makes perfect sense, I should of done a little more research before asking, thank you

[oil pan 4]

Originally Posted by Sneakybassturd69

Where do you think ceramic bearings is worth it from what I understand they can reduce friction 20-50 percent in certain places, and they last forever

Are you talking about ceramic wheel bearings or engine bearings?
Aside from roller lifters and roller chains, you are not going to find any type of roller bearing in most engines.
If you want to put ceramic bearings some where on your engine, put a ceramic ball bearing turbocharger on it.

In my next engine build I am going to convert it to a roller lifter cam and also try to convert the cam "bearings" (which are actually bushings) to rollers too. This is done by installing traditional cam bearings wrong (so cam bearing oil port does not line up with the with the hole, blocking off oil cam bearing oil flow, normally this is disastrous) Then the cam bearing journal is turned down on a lathe to the diameter of the inside of the rollers. When you put it together the roller bearings are splash oiled by oil being flung off the crank.

[oil pan 4]

Originally Posted by Sneakybassturd69

I want to thank every one for the information so far. Does anyone know of a aftermarket injector with better fuel atomization?

Propane or methanol intake fumigation.

[Sneakybassturd69]

Roller bearings I thought I might find them in the transmission but I am still working on getting it out in the next day or to but I think there should be at least one tapered roller bearing but I won't know until I get it apart and I was planning on doing ceramic wheel bearing. Also please forgive me on any confession I might cause on my writing abilities, I am on a cheap mobile device and it can be difficult at times

[freebeard]

Welcome to Ecomodder. You've set yourself an interesting project.

Body wise I think I will make the aero back permanent and cut out the back window and move the metal back a foot or more and add cross braces to make the body stiff er.

You've hit on the reason I wouldn't start with the Rabbit/Caddy myself. What I would do in your place is take off the doors, hang a set of two-door doors, and move the B-pillar and rear bulkhead the rest of your 'foot or more'. Done right it could look factory and solve a problem the extended cab wouldn't.

There's all the other things to do of course (ceramic bearings: marginal gain with some fragility) but to get a real gain right out of the gate: a v1.0 aerolid. If there isn't one for the Rabbit then you get to be first. Anything you do, you can do in a removable form, at least until you ditch the full width tailgate and boattail the rear of the body. What everyone tries to do is fit The Template over the pickup box as best they can. In thinking about my own case (the aircooled Beetle) I separate it into the narrow, tapered upper body and the wider, rounded lower body and treat them differently. Examples:



If you consider the upper right case as substituting for your pickup, then the others are all possible options. Lower right—truncated Template (no added length), lower left—full boattail (not effective below the beltline and—if you do the math—the full length is brutal but you get to start at the B-pillar, ust like the Beetle) and in upper left is an interesting case: a bubbletop-tonneaued full boattail. That could cover the bottom part of the backlight, if you keep that. It would show nicely, but be pretty ineffective except as a wake filler, which is not nothing.

On the 4-2-1 header, once again you can be first. If you look at a blood vessel or Oak tree branch you'll see the 'primary' bulges before it splits into the 'secondaries' (reversed in exhaust flow). If someone manufactured a header using a hydro-forming process (like they use on Chevy truck and Har-Dav frames) to correctly/scientifically model the interior shape, to fit across the A-1 to A-6 generations, then they'd have an immense market to sell into. I suspect motorcycle exhausts are probably made this way now.