Wish my wheels spun like these :)

[bobski]

The steel bearings in that first vid are mis-adjusted, or maybe the brakes are dragging. Notice the partial ceramic wheel gradually drags to a stop, then oscillates back and forth due to the wheel being slightly off balance? Properly adjusted steel bearings do that too... For some reason, the ones in the video do not.
If they're willing to misrepresent existing tech, it makes me wonder if they gave the full ceramic wheel an additional edge. Like, say... Lining the rim with weights to give it more momentum.

[DIMS]

(Formula One, Le Mans, DTM and the World Rally Championship).

It took 12 years for the bearing to be certified, but the end result is that where the original bearings had to be changed after every mission, now they are replaced after every 12 missions.
Euro Auto - Ceramics Build Better Bearings - 07/08

[DIMS]

Originally Posted by bobski

The steel bearings in that first vid are mis-adjusted, or maybe the brakes are dragging. Notice the partial ceramic wheel gradually drags to a stop, then oscillates back and forth due to the wheel being slightly off balance? Properly adjusted steel bearings do that too... For some reason, the ones in the video do not.
If they're willing to misrepresent existing tech, it makes me wonder if they gave the full ceramic wheel an additional edge. Like, say... Lining the rim with weights to give it more momentum.

Yes it does seem a bit biased but I also have the same issue on my commuter bike, But not my road bike. I looked at the cones and the bearing combo and it appears as if my commuter bike has cheaper cones and bearings. It appears that my commuter has something like ABEC 3 bearings vs ABEC 5. It would have been better to tighten the cones to a known torque spec. Then spun up the wheels with an electric motor while monitoring the Odometer for miles and speed.

[DIMS]

transmission GTRCenter

[DIMS]

Originally Posted by bgd73

be careful about ceramics.
I had a subaru that had yellow bearings..when asking about them, it was some kind of experiment..with ceramic. Absolutely horrifying, I was nearly killed when it shattered in the back end. wheel turned on its own, on an aggressive road.

steel may pretend its slower,more firction..but when push comes to shove with 3000 pounds and all day...the steel is gonna win...and do add some racing grease. no regrets.
for bikes and people on them, great, I do not even like ceramics on brakes or clutch pads...it fails me miserably.

think tractor trailer comparing for your car,more than a bicycle.... and trucks fail the ceramic clutch too...

More info on ceramic bearings, It might be biased but semms to make sense

FACT:
Like Stainless Steel ... there are many different levels and grades of purity that you can purchase depending on your level of needs.
Silicon Nitride "Si3N4" base is no different.

North Star Ceramic "Race Specific" Bearings only use the Silicon Nitride "SN101C" formulation.
Under race conditions of excess vibration, shock and side load.
SN101C is "SHATTER PROOF" and any other formulation of Silicon Nitride CAN and WILL BREAK!!!

North Star Automotive Group - What To Look For -

[daring4]

No money in the cure...

[Toby]

Originally Posted by daring4

No money in the cure...

word

[bobski]

Originally Posted by DIMS

It would have been better to tighten the cones to a known torque spec.

Bearing cones should be just tight enough to remove any play between the axle and hub.
In practice, backing the cone off from that point just a hair might be wise, to deal with clearances between the cone and axle threads. When you tighten down the lock nut against the bearing cone, it will shift the load to the opposite face of the threads, applying compression to the bearings. But really, that's probably only a few degrees of cone rotation.

[DIMS]

I wish my wheels were very sticky and crunchy feeling

[IsaacCarlson]

I replaced the front wheel bearings on a ford ranger last year and the torque spec for the spindle nut was 1.5 foot pounds or 18 inch pounds. FINGER TIGHT!