airdam/grillblock heat issue

[moonmonkey]

im running a good 5-8 degrees above normal with this on my car , surprised that it affects heatup at redlights so much, i thought it would mostly affect temps at speed. car now gets to 200 degrees, pretty fast. i hope i can leave it on long enough for some aba, i have a front belly pan that is sealed up pretty good only allowing air out of the wheelwells, and im sure this restricted inlet is helping aero alot, as before the air could not escape the engine bay as fast as it was getting rammed in there.(my theory) scangauge readings are promising.the airdam is a scrap peice of lexan, and its a little too short, does not make it as far toward the edges as it needs to, any input into a final design would be appreciated, maybe angling forward like a train scoop? dont have access to huchos perfect front end design.

[k.civic.f4i]

are you turning off your car at redlights?

[Jyden]

I would try to keep the upper grillblock in place.

Looking at your lower grill block, at would open it up until just under the numberplate, thus providing the radiator with at bit more air.

Have you cheked to far down the radiator extends?

I suspect, at the lowest part of the opening in the lower grill block is lower that the radiator, but my Yaris beeing a 1,0 manual, might be different from yours?

[moonmonkey]

kcivic my starter grinds a little as it is,, i need it to last me along time being a poorboy and all , i think i will be opening it up a little jden as it stays a little too hot even though my fan does not kick on yet,, after a tank through i will know if its worth while.thanks.

[k.civic.f4i]

i bet youd squeeze out a few more mpgs with the maintainence.

[moonmonkey]

no aba but scangauge and tank mpg tells me my front airdam is not a good design,,, back to the drawing board.

[alohaspirit]

i always thought the lower flaps extend to shield the tires


maybe if your design was wider?

[moonmonkey]

aloha i think that my flaw was that the air dam had a slope, inward, and that made the stagnation point higher (more air under the car) and even though i have pans you still want to minimise air under the car, but you are also right the dam should have wrapped around the front a little more.scrap peice of lexan was too short.Dim looking at doing a radical front and rear mod on my car, not a total basjoos but id say 2/3 of the way,,, im going to build a front end extention peice out of wire frame and cardboard/tape and if it increases my fe i will build it out of fiberglass,, i will be trying hard to make it look factory -ish ( i am a hobbyest auto painter).as my daughter gets embarsed by my car, if it works i,ll do a simple step by step how to,and ill try to do it so most any body can build it, im studying car shapes now to try and design it. my goal is to make it look like it was made by the factory and not an add on. stay tuned.

[alohaspirit]

maybe you could stuff those long pool floaters in the grill



then reverse some mudflaps in front of the tires

[Tygen1]

Interesting work Mr. Monkey I've a complete grill block and an air dam that is just 3-4" above the road. My rad fan comes on all the time, however I spend enough time at speed on the highway, I've just let it go figuring it would be a net gain (no idea if it is, I need to test this but I only see a minor increase in gph readings when the fan kicks on) My cooling fan kicks on at 215 then off again at 200. I just let it cycle between these temps. In really hot summer traffic, I've seen 225 when the high speed fan kicks in. Doesn't worry me much because the fan keeps things under control.