05-31-2009, 08:55 PM
|
#1 (permalink)
|
needs more cowbell
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: ÿ
Posts: 5,038
Thanks: 158
Thanked 269 Times in 212 Posts
|
diy $2 lower stress bar
Here is about $2 in 1" conduit that has been custom fit to the control arm mount ends. The mount ends are cantilevered so this adds quite a bit of stiffness to the lower control arms. It is so cost effective that it is hard to justify NOT doing it Just need to be able to hammer and drill and cut, and I bent it by foot (mostly while it was still long). If you were paying attention before installing this, you should notice a significant difference afterwards, at least that has been my experience.
The key things are identifying the low spot(s), making about the right bend, then cutting both ends (a little long at first) and flattening one end and getting one hole in the right place in relation to the bend/low spot, then using that hole over the bolt readjust the angle if needed, then flatten the other end and with the first hole around the bolt, mark the second hole. I wound up bludgeoning the holes in with a 5/8 carbide masonry bit, you may have something nicer around I also flattened the ends with a mallet and held it flat against the concrete with a piece of wood.
__________________
WINDMILLS DO NOT WORK THAT WAY!!!
Last edited by dcb; 06-01-2009 at 07:29 AM..
|
|
|
Today
|
|
|
Other popular topics in this forum...
|
|
|
06-01-2009, 12:22 AM
|
#2 (permalink)
|
Batman Junior
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: 1000 Islands, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22,527
Thanks: 4,078
Thanked 6,976 Times in 3,612 Posts
|
Thanks for reminding me about this, dcb.
I'd say it's particularly important if you're driving a Suzukiclone with previously weakened/repaired control arm mounts, as is the case with the ForkenSwift.
|
|
|
06-01-2009, 01:02 AM
|
#3 (permalink)
|
nut
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southen West Virginia
Posts: 654
Thanks: 0
Thanked 37 Times in 26 Posts
|
Another possibility maybe is to attach to the lower steering rack bolts. I can't remember if they are easy to get to or not but I think they would be a good place to brace from since it is part of the thicker firewall/crash protection area.
But connecting them together is probably as strong as it really needs considering how light the car is.
Good job on finding a cheap easy to find alternative to the really expensive commercial ones
|
|
|
06-01-2009, 05:53 AM
|
#4 (permalink)
|
needs more cowbell
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: ÿ
Posts: 5,038
Thanks: 158
Thanked 269 Times in 212 Posts
|
Thanks Guys
VW Rabbits/golfs/etc are also good candidates for a lower front stress bar/brace, and many other cars are too I'm sure. I had tried other braces on my old rabbit, front/rear upper shock tower, and the lower front one made the most difference by a wide margin.
Edit: I just went to jcwhitney to look for a rabbit bar, couldn't find the lower front bar, guess if your friends can't see it when you pop the hood then it doesn't sell .
Edit2: Here is a rabbit guy that just made one too:
http://forums.motivemag.com/zerothre...ostid=57787475
__________________
WINDMILLS DO NOT WORK THAT WAY!!!
Last edited by dcb; 06-01-2009 at 07:40 AM..
|
|
|
06-01-2009, 11:35 PM
|
#5 (permalink)
|
Batman Junior
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: 1000 Islands, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22,527
Thanks: 4,078
Thanked 6,976 Times in 3,612 Posts
|
That's funny - I had the braces in my Rabbit(s) too. I moved them from car to car as I progressed through my bunny fleet.
|
|
|
06-02-2009, 09:20 PM
|
#6 (permalink)
|
Moderate your Moderation.
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Troy, Pa.
Posts: 8,919
Pasta - '96 Volkswagen Passat TDi 90 day: 45.22 mpg (US)
Thanks: 1,369
Thanked 430 Times in 353 Posts
|
I had all 4 standard types of braces on my Civic, but not necessarily for anything MPG related
Front upper/lower, rear upper/lower normal bars... at some point, I had an interior C-Pillar bar, and a floor stiffener bar as well.... the added weight was only justified by the nearly 20MPH cornering increase before traction was an issue.
Good job on the DIY!
__________________
"¿ʞɐǝɹɟ ɐ ǝɹ,noʎ uǝɥʍ 'ʇı ʇ,usı 'ʎlǝuol s,ʇı"
|
|
|
06-02-2009, 09:55 PM
|
#7 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Norfolk, Va. USA
Posts: 869
Thanks: 14
Thanked 33 Times in 28 Posts
|
I like it!
I may have to look into making my own.
__________________
When you are courting a nice girl an hour seems like a second. When you sit on a red-hot cinder a second seems like an hour. That's relativity.
Albert Einstein
|
|
|
06-03-2009, 12:13 AM
|
#8 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Northwest Lower Michigan
Posts: 1,006
Thanks: 8
Thanked 17 Times in 16 Posts
|
I am surprised that a piece of EMT conduit that can be bent by foot can hold anything structural under a car, especially after being bent. But I believe you when you say it does make a difference. Great job!
__________________
Winter daily driver, parked most days right now
Summer daily driver
|
|
|
06-03-2009, 12:48 PM
|
#9 (permalink)
|
EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Eastent Massachusettes
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
Pardon my ignoance but what exactly does a lower stress bar do?
Last edited by cirwintech; 06-03-2009 at 07:10 PM..
|
|
|
06-03-2009, 12:48 PM
|
#10 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 1,096
Thanks: 0
Thanked 17 Times in 14 Posts
|
DCB, What do you mean by "stress bar"? Is this to take the place of a sway bar (reducing roll in a corner) or a brace (stiffening chassis, not affecting suspension)? Good hack
|
|
|
|