Got me an Insight...

[Ecky]

I've seen that BSFC chart as well (have it in my Google Drive Insight folder, even) and I couldn't tell you which one is right, but the one I posted follows the more typical pattern for small engines.

Bear in mind that anything below 230-240 is more efficient than most other (non-diesel) engines you can buy.

The basic design of a grid charger is that you want an isolated fixed current power source of 300mw or less that can provide at least the maximum voltage that the battery will have (which is around 175v), a 12v source to run the cooling fan, and a diode to prevent current from flowing backward. Two cheap 90v eBay LED drivers in series works great for this, or three 60v.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...d-29288-8.html

I believe this would work:

2 Pcs AC85 265V 30 90V 300mA Power Supply Driver Adapter for 18 25X1W LED Light | eBay

"Meanwell" is also a fairly trusted brand, if you'd prefer.

[NoD~]

Took a while but I found my Neon liked shifting by 2.5K RPM. Sounds like this 1.0L half-ling isn't far from the same. So I'll give that a try!

Yeah sounds simple enough to make and install. Just wasn't sure if component choices have changed or been redefined over the years. I'll check out Amazon... 2 day shipping VS 2+ week shipping from some of those ebay auctions... I have plenty of 12v power supplies laying around I can use (wall warts, computer supplies, etc.) doesn't seem like that fan is gonna need many amps.

Thanks for all the help.

Edit: OK ebay ones it is... hard to find otherwise, unless one wants to throw out some serious bucks! ah well...

[Baltothewolf]

Originally Posted by NoD~

Here's my EGR plate...

I'm sure it will be frowned upon, but since I didn't have another gasket, I cleaned up the original one very well and used copper gasket spray on it. Seems to have worked OK, no noticeable vacuum leaks since reinstalling.

Not at all, I have cleaned probably 30 EGR plates and always cleaned up and re-used the old gasket, never had a problem.

[NoD~]

So, last night... driving this car past my 100 mile mark since ownership. I go to accelerate from a stop and notice my power is pretty lacking... Starting to get dark, so once I get to speed, I notice that my display went dim to the point where it wasn't even really on once I got the headlights on! Oh my... 12v not staying charged it seems. I limped it home and checked the voltage... 10.0v at the battery! Let it charge all night and did a bit of research. Turns out, no IMA charging, no 12v charging! Good to know!

So, I have 2 options: Bypass the BCM, or get the IMA going. I should have what I need to build a grid charger this weekend, hopefully will get to slap it on and start experimenting with that. If not, bypass for now and work on it another day.

In other news, I had all the tint pulled (as it was damaged and starting to bubble a bit) and had 38% ceramic tint applied all around (well, minus the drivers window. Can't roll it down until the switch comes in!) The very rear glass is factory tinted, so he did a clear ceramic film on it. It's not as dark as it was, but keeps the fuzz off my tail! (35% is darkest you can go around these parts)

I'll get pics of said tint when I get a chance.

[MetroMPG]

Oddly: the DC-DC in my Insight kept the 12v battery charged even with the IMA physically switched off (via the large switch on top of the pack)

But I've read other people experiencing the same thing as you.

[NoD~]

I'm guessing it depends on the year. Seems like a flaw that needed addressed, so probably fixed in later models! I guess I'm driving "Alternatorless" even more-so for now. Fuel savings, right?!

I ordered a 12v cig plug-in adapter for monitoring (plus, has 2 USB chargers on it, so... why not?)

http://www.amazon.com/HappyPrimeDay-...ilpage_o00_s00

[Baltothewolf]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

Oddly: the DC-DC in my Insight kept the 12v battery charged even with the IMA physically switched off (via the large switch on top of the pack)

But I've read other people experiencing the same thing as you.

Weird. Once the pack reaches 144v, it should have turned off 12v charging. There is no exceptions for this. Year/CVT or MT/color doesn't matter.

[NoD~]

Pile O parts came in!



Window switch comparison. Odd the color is different, but if it works, I really couldn't care less!



Here's after changing out the switches to the dash brightness, trip, and MPH/KPH buttons. It works now! Woot.



3D Printed hatch latch thing... got it replaced, now the trunk opens with only one hand! Ahhhh, what a feeling.


Cheap LED replacement on the left, original bulb on the right. Brightness is pretty comparable... LED may be a touch brigher. Regardless, consumes less power and should (hopefully) last a long time.

So, here's some updates...
-Drivers window still does not roll down, motor seems shot. Replacement ordered. (I'm around $460 now trying to get my drivers window to roll down... doh!)
-12v charging seems to happen for a bit on a first start when it's cold, reading 13.6v, but then a few miles down the road, battery and brake light come on and it drops 12.2v or lower.
-According to the gauge, this tank I bought the car with is nearly done at around 59MPG. I'm thinking I'm not getting into lean burn properly. Tires, belly pan issues... could be a few things. Will look into this more.
-Started some weight reduction...
--Steel plate and screw under the steering column (guessing it's there to prevent damage to the plastic column if hit hard enough)
--Engine cover and bolts
--2x trunk D ring things with bolts
--1x other hook looking thing in drunk with bolt and cover
--Rear carpet cover
Not a ton of weight, but losing 100 lbs is simply removing 1600 ounces!
-Starting on my grid charger. Just waiting for parts to come in. Hoping to get some life out of this battery.

About to go on vacation in the Red Neon. Once I get back, I'll start hammering away at this beast some more.

[MetroMPG]

Surprisingly (fortunately), my 2000 had none of the electrical switch/button gremlins.

[NoD~]

Went to a scale before my first fillup... with 2 bars on the tank left, stock everything, it weighed in at 1860lbs. Put 9.598 gallons from the gas station a few miles down the road right after.

Once you hit 1 bar and the gas light comes on, how much fuel do you have left? I read it's a 10 gallon tank, but seems like it might hold a bit more.

I also metered the LEDs I put in for the license plate light, map, dome, and front markers to compare to the stock bulbs. It's basically 5w vs 1.15w each.

So one weird issue I've found: The drivers power door lock always works fine. The passenger door and hatch, however, don't always lock or unlock. In fact, it seems to work only once after about 10-30 minutes. After that, they try, but have little power. I pulled the trunk latch all apart and checked out the motor to it. Spins all the way the first time, then each click gets worse. I checked all the connections back there and also redid the connection in the passenger B panel (1 pin was fairly corroded, 1 was mildly, so soldered new wire to both.)

Any ideas?