help for a noob? 1/2 ton truck

[MetroMPG]

If your average MPG display is resettable on the fly, and it's easy to switch back and forth between the instant & average screens, there's no real reason you need to go to get another gauge.

Use your average display to start recording the "to work" and "to home" legs of your commute so you can start challenging yourself to beat your previous high score. Instant is best for when cruising, if you want to "target drive" at or above a certain MPG number.

Start working on those aero mods.

[baldyhunter]

Did a search on DWL and DWB. Great info. I'll be working on my foot and trying a chin spoiler next. Also still considering a scanguage. Thanks again to everyone

[baldyhunter]

Another question, anyone ever try Water Wetter in conjunction with a grill block? It's a coolant system additive that helps it perform more efficiently. I know many racers and mechanics that swear by it. Theoretically a person should be able to improve aerodynamics more thoroughly with its use and a grill block without compromising the cooling system.

[slowmover]

OP, I would recommend starting by taking a step back. How much money did your family spend on petroleum related to transit? The annual fuel budget. One cannot separate vehicles from one another (at this level) and it will put a poor FE truck into context. The context is the use by your family, no one elses. But it requires records. For purposes of fuel it is ALL GALLONS, ALL MILES/HOURS, (ALL ICE ENGINES).

The first purpose of this is to have a background with which to make comparisons. The DHS looked at American travel habits a couple of years ago and found that, essentially, 90% of Americans go to 90% of the same places 90% of the time.

Improving FE is the last step, not the first. Intelligent use is the first step. In between are the details of vehicle spec, climate terrain, vehicle use and driver skill.

Exert some discipline (is the ideal). It is most of the job, in fact. But where to focus effort is the first step. One must have records. Average mpg is nice, but average mph is where the action is. Percentage improvements to both is what matters.

Being willing to make changes means a broad, overall view to see where changes can first be made comfortably.

In short, cut the annual number of miles (engine hours) though accomplishing the same work. And drive the remaining miles at a higher skill level.

Without the first, the second is near-worthless.

Have a look at "Jevons' Paradox". Our unconscious programming about cars is what is at stake.

.

[stillsearching]

Aeromodding is definately the way to go to get substantial fuel efficiency improvements, since it sounds like you have to tow and need to run moderately hard to do it under those conditions. Consider the trailer as equally a target for aeromodding, as well as the gap between pickup and whatever you tow.

I'm similar - everyone keeps trying to sell me on smaller vehicles, but what i'm asking questions about will actually need to tow stuff which I can't do with a smaller vehicle, so i'm going to have to aero the crap out of it.

--

PS - I thanked slowmover for that post, because although i've read the similar multiple times before, that was the nicest most coherent summary i've heard - having a transportation strategy is almost more important, the sole figure being total cost per mile, possibly changing driving habits and similar in some situations, whether to have 2 vehicles or when does 4 make sense, etc.

[darcane]

Originally Posted by baldyhunter

Does anyone have an idea of what I could possibly expect from ditching the stock steel rims and getting lighter ones?

You can check out the thread in my signature regarding what I did with my '03 Silverado (sorry about all the dead links, trying to get that fixed). I saw a slight increase in fuel economy when I ditched the steelies in favor of a more aerodynamic aluminum wheel.

Some underbody panels may help, similar to this:

[redpoint5]

Originally Posted by baldyhunter

My problem is that I have a truck and a motorcycle now....then there's my wife's car. 3 vehicles and I'd really hate to take up the driveway space, extra insurance, and maintenance for a 4th vehicle.

I have a car, motorcycle, diesel truck, a Jeep, and no wife- until August anyhow. I'll be selling the Jeep and purchasing a fuel efficient car instead.

It's fairly easy to do the math and see if a 4th vehicle makes sense for you. Crunch the numbers and it will help you decide what to do.

Originally Posted by baldyhunter

I honestly wouldn't at all be opposed to a scanguage. Can someone please educate me on its advantages over what I already have?

Check out the Ultragauge because it's cheaper and fully featured. The advantage is the many gauges your car does not have. For instance, I use the engine coolant temperature gauge to make sure my grill blocking is not overheating the engine. There is an alarm that goes off if a temperature threshold is exceeded. It can also display OBD2 trouble codes so that you don't have to take your car into a shop to see why the check engine light came on.

If your truck has a distance to empty gauge, I guarantee it is way off. The Ultragauge can be calibrated to be very precise. There are so many other features that you are better off reading them from the scangauge and ultragauge websites.

[baldyhunter]

Originally Posted by slowmover

OP, I would recommend starting by taking a step back. How much money did your family spend on petroleum related to transit? The annual fuel budget. One cannot separate vehicles from one another (at this level) and it will put a poor FE truck into context. The context is the use by your family, no one elses. But it requires records. For purposes of fuel it is ALL GALLONS, ALL MILES/HOURS, (ALL ICE ENGINES).

The first purpose of this is to have a background with which to make comparisons. The DHS looked at American travel habits a couple of years ago and found that, essentially, 90% of Americans go to 90% of the same places 90% of the time.

Improving FE is the last step, not the first. Intelligent use is the first step. In between are the details of vehicle spec, climate terrain, vehicle use and driver skill.

Exert some discipline (is the ideal). It is most of the job, in fact. But where to focus effort is the first step. One must have records. Average mpg is nice, but average mph is where the action is. Percentage improvements to both is what matters.

Being willing to make changes means a broad, overall view to see where changes can first be made comfortably.

In short, cut the annual number of miles (engine hours) though accomplishing the same work. And drive the remaining miles at a higher skill level.

Without the first, the second is near-worthless.

Have a look at "Jevons' Paradox". Our unconscious programming about cars is what is at stake.

.

Ahh...the Hollistic approach. Very well said. Gets me thinking beyond the 1 vehicle.

[baldyhunter]

Originally Posted by stillsearching

Aeromodding is definately the way to go to get substantial fuel efficiency improvements, since it sounds like you have to tow and need to run moderately hard to do it under those conditions. Consider the trailer as equally a target for aeromodding, as well as the gap between pickup and whatever you tow.

I'm similar - everyone keeps trying to sell me on smaller vehicles, but what i'm asking questions about will actually need to tow stuff which I can't do with a smaller vehicle, so i'm going to have to aero the crap out of it.

--

PS - I thanked slowmover for that post, because although i've read the similar multiple times before, that was the nicest most coherent summary i've heard - having a transportation strategy is almost more important, the sole figure being total cost per mile, possibly changing driving habits and similar in some situations, whether to have 2 vehicles or when does 4 make sense, etc.

Very true, I'm getting ready to redo the trailer I use now so I'll be thinking about that as well.
Thanks

[baldyhunter]

Originally Posted by darcane

You can check out the thread in my signature regarding what I did with my '03 Silverado (sorry about all the dead links, trying to get that fixed). I saw a slight increase in fuel economy when I ditched the steelies in favor of a more aerodynamic aluminum wheel.

Some underbody panels may help, similar to this:

That's PERFECT. I build the Cruze for a living. We use very similar aero mods for the Eco model. I'll be doing all those very soon.