Trying to modify my grill block to be more aerodynamic.

[He-man]

So I had a full lower block but even on colder days I heard my radiator fans going a lot. So I am trying to design something that will get more air to my radiator but also be very aero dynamic at the same time. I have two designs and I currently am using type one of my two designs and it seems to be doing well with the cooling, I hardly ever hear my fans going, but I am afraid that is is causing unneeded drag.

I feel like type two would work more efficiently but I wanted to get the peoples perspective on the issue first. Thanks guys!

P.S. I know my car is super dirty and the paint is kinda ****ty, but I love this little fuel sipper regardless

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by He-man

So I had a full lower block but even on colder days I heard my radiator fans going a lot. So I am trying to design something that will get more air to my radiator but also be very aero dynamic at the same time. I have two designs and I currently am using type one of my two designs and it seems to be doing well with the cooling, I hardly ever hear my fans going, but I am afraid that is is causing unneeded drag.

I feel like type two would work more efficiently but I wanted to get the peoples perspective on the issue first. Thanks guys!

P.S. I know my car is super dirty and the paint is kinda ****ty, but I love this little fuel sipper regardless

What sucks about any 'fixed' design,is that the car is always operating in a transient environment:freezing/cold/warm/hot................... and that could be on the same day!
The automakers have hedged their bets by going to the hidden shutter system which takes it's cue from an array of sensors,which help to optimize its performance.
Some members have articulated 'doors' on their blocks,and with a thermocouple and temp display,can alter the cooling capacity of the car as they drive.OR,with a sensor pack,servo motor, and MPGuino-based logic,have an automatic system which does the same thing as the big dogs.
You might keep an assortment of block panels with you in the webbed storage behind the seats and change them around as weather conditions dictate.
Like the Insight!

[He-man]

Originally Posted by aerohead

What sucks about any 'fixed' design,is that the car is always operating in a transient environment:freezing/cold/warm/hot................... and that could be on the same day!
The automakers have hedged their bets by going to the hidden shutter system which takes it's cue from an array of sensors,which help to optimize its performance.
Some members have articulated 'doors' on their blocks,and with a thermocouple and temp display,can alter the cooling capacity of the car as they drive.OR,with a sensor pack,servo motor, and MPGuino-based logic,have an automatic system which does the same thing as the big dogs.
You might keep an assortment of block panels with you in the webbed storage behind the seats and change them around as weather conditions dictate.
Like the Insight!

Thanks for all the info, I will take your advice and have different sized blocks in the car. What style of block do you think would be more aerodynamic? Type 1 or type 2?

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by He-man

Thanks for all the info, I will take your advice and have different sized blocks in the car. What style of block do you think would be more aerodynamic? Type 1 or type 2?

I'd be inclined to go low and keep the inlet right at the stagnation point

[He-man]

So from my reading I just did the stagnation point will be in the middle of the vehicle probably centered in the grill?

[He-man]

Also, if it were to be centered would type 1 or type two be better. Would an abrupt entrance be best or would a sloped entrance be best for an inlet? I seen both on the vehicles that are posted. Thanks!

[freebeard]

The stagnation point is where air that lower goes under the car and air higher goes over. It depends on the overall shape of the nose.

Likewise the inlet depends on the path the air will take from there to the radiator, which should be in a sealed duct. Is you diagram looking from the top down or from the side? And which way is the radiator?

[He-man]

Originally Posted by freebeard

The stagnation point is where air that lower goes under the car and air higher goes over. It depends on the overall shape of the nose.

Likewise the inlet depends on the path the air will take from there to the radiator, which should be in a sealed duct. Is you diagram looking from the top down or from the side? And which way is the radiator?

Top down, with the nose facing up in all the drawings

[freebeard]

The drawing in the frame that is rotated left 90°? I confuse easily.

Let's try this: Is the radiator centered or offset left or right? The inlet duct should be longer than the height of the radiator and the opening should be 1/6th the area. A centered duct into a centered radiator is a very direct path. If the radiator is offset to the left (for instance) and the inlet is on the right, then a longer path is available. Then all you need is to make the duct evenly divergent ...maybe turning vanes in the corners.

[He-man]

Originally Posted by freebeard

The drawing in the frame that is rotated left 90°? I confuse easily.

Let's try this: Is the radiator centered or offset left or right? The inlet duct should be longer than the height of the radiator and the opening should be 1/6th the area. A centered duct into a centered radiator is a very direct path. If the radiator is offset to the left (for instance) and the inlet is on the right, then a longer path is available. Then all you need is to make the duct evenly divergent ...maybe turning vanes in the corners.

So the photo is sideways. So based on the photo as it is shown the front is to the right. all are drawn from top down.

The opening should be 1/6th the area of the area of the radiator? Awesome, that makes things pretty easy. I can remake this as many times as needed as Coroplast is pretty cheap in bulk.