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This mode, where the deep discharge battery and charger provides the operating current provides a 'fail safe' with one risk ... over charging the existing AUX battery.
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I did think of this and have had the issue before. I was experimenting with alternator delete and supplying 14.5V to the system so I installed a battery isolating solenoid to take it out of the system. But that's a manual system. If the voltage was kept =or<13.5V then you would not have to worry about overcharging. Perhaps another big diode on the 12V battery?
Your idea is more elegant, simpler and provides some measure of automation. Would the voltage after the diode still be lower when the Prius converter takes over? I'm sure there is a way to design a circuit that would solve that problem automatically but I'm not the man for that design although I could build it, given a diagram. That could be done later when we get proof of concept. The math is good but the real world always has the final say. As the kids say..."Reality bites".
I think the People's Hybrid system used 4 x 50 amp DC-DC converters in parallel which might make the whole thing cheaper. I've tried to find high amp converters and they are $$$$$ but lower ones are $.
Now if we could find out where the ECU get's it's Voltage signal and leave the Prius converter hooked up to that then we don't need any $$$ converters.
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Hummmm, 290/745 ~= ~.39 hp, nominal savings.
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This is why I was hoping for efficiency numbers on the MGs and converter. In a standard stone age system, it's more than double.
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If you get a chance, see what the Graham scanner reports for the traction battery current with and without the inverter 20 A. (14.5 * 20 = 290 W.)
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Oh, right...(smacks forehead) Form the current draw on the traction battery I could figure the efficiency of the DC-DC. That's one down...
Terribly exciting. Not as sexy as a PHEV conversion but massively easier and cheaper.