Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r
Would you mind showing some data to back up this 3A claim? I am a bit skeptical of that because computer liquid cooling systems typically use ~1.5A pumps, and a 1.5A pump used for a relatively low restriction loop such as a car cooling system would be pumping something like 1.5 gallons per minute max. A 3A pump wouldn't be able to do much better.
|
There are some 20gpm pumps out there that draw about 5 or 6 amps and move 20gpm which is fine for one bank of 4 lightly worked cylinders.
Like this one:
20 GPM - Water Pumps, Electrical - Cooling & Heating - SummitRacing.com
(it draws 5 amps)
1 to 3 amps could work for cold start and low load driving on a small engine.
The pump I have now uses 7 amps, the low speed setting I made goes through a big "battery charge limiter" and slows it down drawing 5.5 amps.
I plan to up grade to a 55gpm 10amp pump put together 4 and 7 amp low speed settings and put together a 16volt emergency power battery pack for short bursts of high loads in very high ambiant temperatures.
Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r
A cooling pump uses a fair amount of power, I'm not sure alternator DELETE would be the best idea.
|
The alt delete and electric coolant pump dont really go together so well.
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
|