Electric water pump

[Nerys]

he is talking about stock but I think the metro pump only HAS 3 fins (will have to check)

[ATaylorRacing]

Originally Posted by mans

A trick that a lot of drag racers use is to cut off every other fin inside the water pump. They have less drag, more power, more miles per gallon, and adequate cooling.

which pumps are you talking about cutting the fins off? the stock pumps or the electric ones? do you mean cutting every other fin off the electric pump for lower power consumption?[/QUOTE]

I was talking about cutting every other fin off the stock water pumps for the 2.2 and 2.5 Chrysler 4 cylinders that were built from 1981 through the 1990s and were replaced by the 2.0 and 2.4s that came out in the Mini-vans and Neons, & etc. A lot of V8 guys did this too, but the vast majority of low budget racers would simply remove the belt that turned the stock water pump, make a bracket to hold a heater electric motor, and use that to turn the stock pump.

I found that the electric pump that I used back in the 80s is still around. Makes me think about putting one on my current cars! Back then it was under $40. You could mount it anywhere. On the old 2.2/2.5 cars I would simply remove the water pump (3 bolt attachment) then get an extra thermostat housing and bolt it to the block in the place of the stock pump. The I simply used 3/4 hose to splice it inbetween the inlet/outlet of the stock pump and use a on/off switch to control it. It was great ffor cooling the motor between rounds when we were being run round-robbin due to time constraints. The motor pulls 8A. Now-a-days you can buy on/off switches that are temperature controlled with a sensor and you would not need to worry about remembering to shut it off...or turn it on.
Pump
http://www.amazon.com/Jabsco-18660-0.../dp/B000O8FBDE
Switch:
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CGEQ8wIwAA#

[ATaylorRacing]

I'm going to have to check how the water pump set up is on my near stock 46 mpg 95 2.0 SOHC Neon that I drag race now also. It would free up more power and mpgs if I can make ir work here too. This car picked up about 9hp, 3 mpg, and went quicker in the 1/4 mile 3/4 of a second when we totally removed the power steering. The wt of what was removed (under 15 lbs) should have equalled about .01 seconds. Here is the car and who I race against. You can go forwards and back through the album to see us. I was 2nd in pts in 2010 and won the Stick Shift Nationals while 2011 I was 3rd. The black low 12 second SRT4 that is my sig I still use on occasion, but this car is just soooo much easier to drive consistantly. I am the only guy that drives to and from every race and not trailer my cars in nearly all the pts series that I race in!
UMTR at Edgewater - October 8, 2011 - Hyper-Performance Motorsports Inc. Photography

[Piwoslaw]

Originally Posted by Nerys

he is talking about stock but I think the metro pump only HAS 3 fins (will have to check)

Then cutting off every other fin will leave only one Supposedly this is quite efficient, but may cause balance-related vibrations.

[Arragonis]

Airflow powered water pump



Well, its an idea.

[oil pan 4]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

Would you mind showing some data to back up this 3A claim? I am a bit skeptical of that because computer liquid cooling systems typically use ~1.5A pumps, and a 1.5A pump used for a relatively low restriction loop such as a car cooling system would be pumping something like 1.5 gallons per minute max. A 3A pump wouldn't be able to do much better.

There are some 20gpm pumps out there that draw about 5 or 6 amps and move 20gpm which is fine for one bank of 4 lightly worked cylinders.
Like this one:
20 GPM - Water Pumps, Electrical - Cooling & Heating - SummitRacing.com
(it draws 5 amps)
1 to 3 amps could work for cold start and low load driving on a small engine.

The pump I have now uses 7 amps, the low speed setting I made goes through a big "battery charge limiter" and slows it down drawing 5.5 amps.
I plan to up grade to a 55gpm 10amp pump put together 4 and 7 amp low speed settings and put together a 16volt emergency power battery pack for short bursts of high loads in very high ambiant temperatures.

Originally Posted by serialk11r

A cooling pump uses a fair amount of power, I'm not sure alternator DELETE would be the best idea.

The alt delete and electric coolant pump dont really go together so well.

[Nerys]

Normally I would agree. but in a car like a Geo Metro XFI the car itself even with electric pump uses SO little power that just installing 2 deep cycles will give you a WEEKS run time between charges. unlimited time in summer with just a couple decent solar panels.

now the engine does absolutely nothing but "move the car"

in something like my van or my pops towncar. well battery would not last an hour.

but the metro needs so little power. even my 5.1 surround sound only takes 30watts.

the problem with the air turbine power is that now your once again powering the water pump WITH YOUR ENGINE since your engine now has to work harder with higher drag.

by going pure electric and no alternator I transfer the power needs of that equipment to my multiple orders of magnitude cheaper HOUSE ELECTRIC power instead of my cars gas tank.

[3dplane]

Another possibility/advantage with the electric pump over conventional coolant pump is that if you engine off coast a lot ( I do) then perhaps the speed/power consumption of the pump could be further lowered due to the fact that one can continue to run the pump during EOC while getting the same amount of heat removed from the engine as when it is running!

And that is obviously because with a conventional pump when the engine is off,so is the pump and with no circulation the relatively small amount of coolant quickly cools off in the radiator (given there is air flow across it) but until circulation is restored,that cooler liquid will not make it to the engine block to do it's job.
And when it does make it there,that means you had to start the engine creating more heat.

Or if you ever have overheating trouble for any reason, your possibilities for a quick way to cool the engine using the electric pump are a lot greater than
with the conventional system.

Just some thoughts!

Barna

[mans]

Originally Posted by Nerys

Normally I would agree. but in a car like a Geo Metro XFI the car itself even with electric pump uses SO little power that just installing 2 deep cycles will give you a WEEKS run time between charges. unlimited time in summer with just a couple decent solar panels.

now the engine does absolutely nothing but "move the car"

in something like my van or my pops towncar. well battery would not last an hour.

but the metro needs so little power. even my 5.1 surround sound only takes 30watts.

by going pure electric and no alternator I transfer the power needs of that equipment to my multiple orders of magnitude cheaper HOUSE ELECTRIC power instead of my cars gas tank.

I'd love to remove all engine accessories, however I can only remove the alt and engine water pump...

I kinda need my power steering and a/c

(please understand this, although I'm not sure how people survived without a/c in their cars during those summers before car a/c became popular in the 70's-80's. hey they must have had a/c in those horse drawn carriages in the 1800's too cuz the summers were hot then as well and how can u survive without a/c.. ye we're spoiled today :-))

is it possible to convert the power steering and a/c to 12v electric as well?

[mans]

Originally Posted by Nerys

Normally I would agree. but in a car like a Geo Metro XFI the car itself even with electric pump uses SO little power that just installing 2 deep cycles will give you a WEEKS run time between charges. unlimited time in summer with just a couple decent solar panels.

now the engine does absolutely nothing but "move the car"

in something like my van or my pops towncar. well battery would not last an hour.

but the metro needs so little power. even my 5.1 surround sound only takes 30watts.

the problem with the air turbine power is that now your once again powering the water pump WITH YOUR ENGINE since your engine now has to work harder with higher drag.

by going pure electric and no alternator I transfer the power needs of that equipment to my multiple orders of magnitude cheaper HOUSE ELECTRIC power instead of my cars gas tank.

yes, I agree with you on that.
I'd say even if you installed a small 5-10 gpm ewp(yes, 5-10 gpm) with a teeny weeny amp draw you'd be fine on the metro cuz if the engine gets too hot during a period where additional cooling is required the engine cooling fan would run a little more then usual to make up for it and you'd be fine