Electric water pump

[Daox]

I've heard a few times now that electric water pumps help the engine warm up faster. I really don't see why this is possible?

I guess the same goes for the engine temp. The engine temperature is controlled by the thermostat, how does the pump have anything to do with that?

[bs0u0155]

I've heard a few times now that electric water pumps help the engine warm up faster. I really don't see why this is possible?

I guess the same goes for the engine temp. The engine temperature is controlled by the thermostat, how does the pump have anything to do with that?

You can speed up the warm up times by simply circulating the coolant much more slowly while the engine is cold so you are simply not bringing the whole circuit into play as fast.

The electric water pump and controller allows you to ditch the thermostat completely and control your engine temp electronically. The obvious downside to this is that if you raise your normal engine operating temp to a level above that at which your cooling fan switch trips, then you would have the cooling fan on practically all the time. It's a simple fix to modify the fan switch however.

Also you could turn your engine temp down to say 75C, which should give slightly more power and headroom for tuning if you're into that kind of thing.

[jamesshaw89]

I'm still looking on EM since I haven't seen any hard numbers yet I did a google search and found on an LS7 Corvette it made a 13 HP difference accross the entire rpm range on the dyno run.

That has to be a really good amount when combined with the alternator delete?

someone has to have tested this out.

Forgot to add the link

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_08...s/viewall.html

another link stating up to 17hp on a 170 hp engine

http://www.torquecars.com/tuning/ele...ater-pumps.php

[Nerys]

as SOON as I have sufficient cash to buy a second deep cycle battery and the $130 pump I WILL find out.

I plan to leave the pump and alternator in place. this way if something "goes wrong" for any reason or I need to drive really far away etc.. I can just put the belt back on to return alternator power.

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by jamesshaw89

I'm still looking on EM since I haven't seen any hard numbers yet I did a google search and found on an LS7 Corvette it made a 13 HP difference accross the entire rpm range on the dyno run.

That has to be a really good amount when combined with the alternator delete?

someone has to have tested this out.

A cooling pump uses a fair amount of power, I'm not sure alternator DELETE would be the best idea.

But if you say, switch off the alternator EXCEPT when braking, then you are effectively running all electric items off recaptured waste energy, and an electric water pump would follow this rule as well. This would work especially well in racing and street driving where braking is relatively frequent.

[Nerys]

3amps. really not much power and I plan to run it at HALF that power since its really designed for the demands of a much larger engine. a metro engine really does not need all that much coolant flow to cool the engine. you could almost aircool the thing.

with 2 deepcycles I would only need to charge once a week in the summer taking the batts to 50% SOC. (I am also changing ALL lights to LED including the headlights as soon as I can figure out a practical safe legal way to do it IE get them certed)

You also have 2 more issues to content with.

1st amount of power is not really relevant (unless you don't have enough) your "cost per watt" is relevant. you see I plan to also remove the crank pulley (maybe leave it if i go with an aluminum underdrive.)

NO belts at all. the engine will have one function. move the car. USUALLY if i am using the brakes the engine is off so I won't be able to recover that waste energy in that manner.

electricity from my outlet is far far cheaper than even the meager amount of gas the alternator uses AND I thought someone estimated that a geo alternator consumes upwards of 10% of the engines power.

I plan later to add solar panels to the roof for daytime charging. in the summer the solar panels should over the period of a week replace more power than I "use" driving the car so I would never need to plug in. (this would not be the case in the winter where sun charging is reduced and power usage is increased (more headlight usage and more blower usage)

in mild winter weather when alone I can get away with forced air heat. IE just let the wind force the air through the heat ducts without using the blower at all.

I also want to play around with HT peltiers for waste power extraction. Was also thinking direct heat extraction from the exhaust to heat the car but this carries significant risks (gassing) that I am NOT willing to risk. so thinking of another solution around that. I am thinking floor heat like heated floors in a house using heat from the exhaust to heat copper piping with a coolant inside that then gets routed under the carpets and maybe even into the seats themselves for direct passenger heating (would be WELL below dangerous heat temps by the time it covered that much distance)

I am hoping to squeeze 70mpg out of this car WITHOUT serous EOC or serious hypermiling.

I am already hitting 60mpg pretty easily so I think all this combined with aero mods should get me their pretty easily.

I want to show that a CONSUMER CAR can in fact do this.

[serialk11r]

Would you mind showing some data to back up this 3A claim? I am a bit skeptical of that because computer liquid cooling systems typically use ~1.5A pumps, and a 1.5A pump used for a relatively low restriction loop such as a car cooling system would be pumping something like 1.5 gallons per minute max. A 3A pump wouldn't be able to do much better.

I'm not saying that a Metro engine needs the same cooling capacity as a 7L chevy V8, but I imagine flow rate is somewhat important in car engine cooling.

The reason I am concerned about the extra electrical load is the life of the battery is shortened if you're drawing more power from it. I think we all agree that it's best for as much of the engine's power as possible to be going into driving the car rather than accessories.

[Nerys]

I will try to find it the company mailed me the specs for the new "consumer" grade water pump they were making.

Their racing pumps pump 20gpm at 6amps I was planning to run it at half that. (20gpm is WAY more than a metro needs)

https://zekesengineering.com/pumps.html

I can only imagine a slower consumer model would consume even less.

I sent a reply back asking for specs on the new ZP20 $130 pump I want.

[serialk11r]

Oh wow that's somewhat of a surprise to me. Well, that makes me want to do an electric pump conversion when I get a car. The belt driven pump almost certainly is going to sap more than 100W. That's also a nice price for a solid looking pump. Perhaps PWM it down to 8V?

[mans]

A trick that a lot of drag racers use is to cut off every other fin inside the water pump. They have less drag, more power, more miles per gallon, and adequate cooling.[/QUOTE]

which pumps are you talking about cutting the fins off? the stock pumps or the electric ones? do you mean cutting every other fin off the electric pump for lower power consumption?