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Old 02-17-2012, 11:27 AM   #215 (permalink)
COcyclist
Aero Wannabe
 
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: NW Colo
Posts: 738

TDi - '04 VW Golf
TEAM VW AUDI Group
90 day: 53.2 mpg (US)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arragonis View Post
OK - I have a diagram on how to wire it using a 5 point relay - is this correct ?



The idea will be they go on with the ignition and off with the sidelights - I've checked and the sidelights (position lights) stay on with the dipped and main beam. There is an ACC (accessory) wire in the underbonnet fusebox - Haynes manuals - thank you...

EDIT - ignore the connection between pin 30 and 87a - I copied this from a diagram...
Hello Mr. A, I have read over your into of George. I am sorry to see Helga leave but I applaud your latest experiment. Although, I am guessing you will miss the turbo-diesel kick in the pants sometimes.

I did an LED DRL mod to my Golf right after I got it. I disabled the factory LEDs that use the headlight bulbs and added LED "clearance lights" used for the cab of big trucks in the U.S. You can see them at the top of the grill in my avatar. If I may make a suggestion, I think you are getting way too involved in the wiring of your LEDs. I simply used a "fuse tap" to pull power from a fuse that comes on with the ignition switch. I ran one wire through the firewall to a harness I made behind the front grill. I powered both lights with a Y splice and added ground leads to an existing screw on the car sheetmetal. Easy. These lights draw very little power (that's the whole idea) so relays are unnecessary. Recently, I did go back and add some dielectric grease to the connections I made behind the grill. Over the years some corrosion had developed and I was not getting a good connection. Other than that they have worked flawlessly.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard View Post
The power needed to push an object through a fluid increases as the cube of the velocity. Mechanical friction increases as the square, so increasing speed requires progressively more power.
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