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Old 09-16-2012, 03:44 AM   #7 (permalink)
RH77
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kansas City Area
Posts: 1,761

Teggy - '98 Acura Integra LS
Sports Cars
90 day: 32.74 mpg (US)

IMA - '10 Honda Insight EX
Team Honda
90 day: 34.76 mpg (US)

Tessie - '06 Acura TSX Base
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Yes, I tend to ramble, so I highlighted key points. Feel free to read more if you have time/interest.

Bear in mind FE has significantly increased so I'm really interested if the problem is causing it and/or is detrimental.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ron View Post
is fuel pump in the tank? ever run the tank as low as possible to check max mileage? then with 165000 mi on the car and a problem (stalling) that kicks out a code you cant figure out , I suggest a new pump before it leaves you stranded . by the way dont spend a bunch of money on all the easy to change 20-50$ stuff, cut to the chase and change the pump(yourself if possible)
Another problem to mention is the fuel gauge. After 1/2-tank it sticks around the 5/8 mark, then drops rapidly. The vast majority of fills have been "below E", but now with the (assumed) unreliable sending unit, the "safe/panic" area was 300-325 miles based on the consumption history.

First, would it pay to borrow a fuel pump gauge to test the non-running pressure output, or with the intermittent problem, should I assume the pump is starting to fail completely? The FP is within the tank -- the manual mentions easy access from the spare tire area, some fiddly parts, but it looks to be within my DIY level. Plus, I don't need to get stranded on my 52-mile / each way commute. I take it that your recommendation would be to replace the pump regardless, or wait for another anomaly?

It doesn't have the "failing pump whine", but I'm sure it's not a universal sign. I'm curious (concerned) to know what crap is in the tank. If the pump is replaced, I would replace the filter again, for the downstream flow component. It's easy and cheap enough, being on the firewall. Maybe after the new pump runs for a tank or 2, in case there is debris churned-up. I'm assuming it's worth it?


Quote:
Originally Posted by some_other_dave View Post
The tach jumping around says to me that you have an ignition problem. I would suspect the ignitor module in the distributor; those are a known weakness in Civic and Integra models.-soD
The first under-hood items I checked were the wires and boot seat (too many times has a set of cheap wires arced and failed). The cap was replaced at 110K-ish and rotated to full advance for FE (premium fuel used since, plus the warm air intake needs higher octane). Referring to the manual, is this the Ignition Control Module? If it doesn't stall again, should I move on to other fixes?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ksa8907
could have a vacuum leak, if you feel like throwing time at it, pull the throttle body and clean it really well, don't forget the idle air controller.
Idle is a bit low when warm. The problem with TB and IAC cleaning, is calculating time vs. return on effort. I assume a quick fix would be to spray carb cleaner in the air ports TB and the IAC? (the manual states "not to damage" it, which concerns me a bit on how fragile it is -- shouldn't that statement apply to any part on the car? Kinda funny).

Since it's an automatic, it also has a "Fast Idle Thermo Valve" to check. But I'm just thinking that it would take a significant leak or clog to replicate the stall the way it did. I did learn something new -- engine coolant warms the throttle body through a passage.

Regarding the air's journey into the manifold and cylinder, an auto parts store had a special on SeaFoam this weekend, so I stocked up, and plan to smoke-up the neighborhood on the vac line draw method (considered my usual maintenance process on the family's cars -- except the Insight). It's added to the tank on occasion. Plus the crankcase, short idle time, then oil change. Lost of folks swear by AutoRX or plain water for vacuum line draw to clean the top end, but SF is easy to find and has worked for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bikin' Ed
Timing belt?
Oh geez, I hope not. It's in the "due" range since it (and the water pump) was replaced at 80K. That's about the limit of my DIY for replacement. Without the proper tool, that crank pulley is a bear to remove. The rest is careful placement.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions! It is all covered: air, spark, and fuel. With a new baby, "car-time" is pretty limited. I can sneak some weekend time when the fam comes over to visit/help, so we'll see what develops. The next couple of weeks, it will stay parked while I use a rental car for work -- right now: the Dodge Avenger Base, 2.4L, 4AT. The seats are great, but give the darn thing another gear for FE (and some interior personality! It's OK I suppose. I reviewed it here a while back. They're Daimler leftovers -- the Dart looks like an interesting replacement, but Eminem can keep the 200 (Sebring in new clothes). Did I mention I ramble?

Best FE,
-RH77
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