Quote:
Originally Posted by redpoint5
Seems like the battery should be topped up well enough at that low resistance. Would be curious to throw some meters in there to see what's going on. I picked up a few for something like $10 each.
Similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/HTRC-Precisio...ne+power+meter |
Agreed, it should be pretty much symmetrical, but whatever. Most of my driving is less than 20 minutes, and I found it took a full day to charge the battery up to full with my 800ma trickle charger, so it looks like it still has most of its original capacity. I rewired it all today with heavier gauge and added some more 100A breakers, will see how it goes.
When I connected the caps and battery back together, the battery was at ~13.25v and the caps were at ~13.65v. It took several minutes for their charge to equalize when I reconnected them. It did not trip the 100A breaker, so presumably the battery has enough internal resistance to prevent huge rushes of current.
Normally when I start my car the DC-DC runs full tilt for around 15 seconds and then the caps are full, but it took the car a good 20 minutes to charge the battery up to the point that the DC-DC went into a low power mode. Hopefully the internal resistance of the battery will let the caps handle most of the transient loads and it won't be hammered too badly when it's cold. I believe cold increases the battery's resistance anyway?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksa8907
Do you have any relays involved?
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None. The smallest 100A relay I could find had an active power draw of ~12w, and most of the nicer ones are ~20-30w. To me that's pretty unacceptable.