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I would be surprised if you can't find somebody who would trade you straight across for an equivalent 2WD. I have a Ranger 4WD, and it gets somewhere around 16 mpg; I think the 4WD system is contributing to that. You'll also find parts to be more expensive and harder to find.
Your other option once business picks up is to buy another vehicle. My dad was getting killed by $4 gas in his GMC 2500HD with the utility bed, so he bought a used little 2WD Sonoma and put a toolbox in the back. Even with wider "sport" tires, he gets 23 mpg at 70-80 mph, or more than double the 2500HD. It paid for itself the first year, and now he only drives the 2500HD when he needs to tow something or carry stuff that needs the utility bed. You may not be able to do that now, but it's something to think about for the future.
I'd say a Scangauge or MPGuino should be your first choice. You're going to have to figure out the best gear and speed for both running empty and towing the trailer. With an auto, you may find that your torque converter can lock up in 3rd at a lower speed and give better mileage, or in 4th at a _higher_ speed and get better mileage. You won't be able to tell any other way.
Aero mods should be next. Sealing up bumper gaps, the bed-to-cab gap (maybe with a heavy metal tape, or that tailgate sealing tape), maybe a coroplast belly pan to clean up the huge cavern under the bed. I wouldn't tow with any kind of grill block without getting an accurate aftermarket tranny temp gauge and engine temp gauge. (A lot of Fords have an "idiot light gauge", so don't trust them.) When you replace tires, buy the stiffest highest-weight-rated tires you can. (I see a lot of trailers with car tires that bulge out the sides; not good for FE.)
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