Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > EcoModding Central
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 06-27-2021, 04:33 PM   #31 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Memphis, Tn
Posts: 463
Thanks: 320
Thanked 107 Times in 81 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hersbird View Post
Just running your a/c is the least expensive solution by a factor of 100 I bet. What exactly do you mean kills your MPG? Going from say 40 to 35 isn't that big of a deal. Maybe $100-$200 a year. However you charge the battery will take some energy too. If you really want to get 40+ and run your A/C just buy a used Prius for probably less than any wierd conversion would cost. Plus I bet adding 300 pounds of battery might also hurt your MPG similar to running the A/C on the belt.
Good advice. My goal isn't necessarily to save fuel just for the purpose of saving money, it's also a game to me to see how many MPG I can get. The weight of the batteries is a great point too. Initially I was thinking I could maybe get away with 100 pounds of batteries, but it looks like that may not work out.

  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 06-27-2021, 07:29 PM   #32 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: United States
Posts: 1,756

spyder2 - '00 Toyota MR2 Spyder
Thanks: 104
Thanked 407 Times in 312 Posts
On my nearly brand new Scion FR-S I had a few years ago, I remember that the heater leaked heat through the blend door. I clearly remember some of my parents' new cars doing that when I was a kid too. I thought it was a normal feature of all cars, but I have since seen a few cars (including the one I have now) that don't blow warm air, which is SO nice. The sun puts enough heat into the cabin already, engine heat is very unwelcome :/

As far as I can tell, every single car that has the intake below the windshield will blow air at you with the fans not on unless you turn on recirculate, because the base of the windshield is a high pressure zone. If the seals or plastic panels blocking things off are missing or damaged, you can be sucking in engine bay air. Some cars tuck the intake elsewhere and won't have air blowing at you on the freeway.
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to serialk11r For This Useful Post:
EcoCivic (06-27-2021)
Old 06-27-2021, 07:44 PM   #33 (permalink)
It's all about Diesel
 
cRiPpLe_rOoStEr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil
Posts: 12,571
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1,627 Times in 1,452 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r View Post
every single car that has the intake below the windshield
Nowadays it's hard to find any car with the intake somewhere else. Even some classics had a retractible air intake at the cowl, right in front of the windshield, yet it didn't pull any warm air from the engine bay.
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2021, 07:49 PM   #34 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Memphis, Tn
Posts: 463
Thanks: 320
Thanked 107 Times in 81 Posts
Just got back from driving and heat intrusion is a LOT lower with the under hood part of the fresh air intake taped off even though I kept recirculate on the whole time. Shutting the AC off during acceleration is now much more tolerable. The vent air still feels somewhat warmer than cabin air when the AC isn't on, but it no longer feels like the heat is on.

One of my next projects will likely be removing the wiper cowl, maybe drilling small holes for additional air intake to compensate for the blocked off underhood portion of the vent, insulating the cowl portion of the firewall, and properly sealing the little gaps around the wiper cowl with foam strips or some other type of sealant material to reduce engine heat intrusion as much as possible.

Actually since I almost always use recirculate in the summer anyways I may try taping off the exterior air inlet also to prevent hot outside air from getting sucked/pushed into the cabin and see if I like the results. About the only time I use fresh air mode in the summer is for the first couple minutes after I get into the hot car when outside air is cooler than the air in the cabin. I would prefer for no outside air to enter with recirculate on while still retaining the option to use outside air mode with the press of a button, but I may be better off just blocking off the exterior inlet entirely during the summer since it likely lets a lot of heat in. If I don't like the result all I lost was a couple minutes of my time and a few cents of tape.
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2021, 07:56 PM   #35 (permalink)
It's all about Diesel
 
cRiPpLe_rOoStEr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil
Posts: 12,571
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1,627 Times in 1,452 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by EcoCivic View Post
About the only time I use fresh air mode in the summer is for the first couple minutes after I get into the hot car when outside air is cooler than the air in the cabin.
With the AC on or off?
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2021, 08:09 PM   #36 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Memphis, Tn
Posts: 463
Thanks: 320
Thanked 107 Times in 81 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr View Post
With the AC on or off?
Usually with the AC on. Initially I use fresh air mode when the interior of the car is very hot as it's easier for the AC to cool 100 degree ambient air than 120+ degree cabin air. Once the interior cools off to roughly outside temp, I switch to recirculate.
  Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2021, 02:49 PM   #37 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 360
Thanks: 275
Thanked 132 Times in 102 Posts
I live in hot-and-humid Louisiana and use the air conditioner for most of the year, always in recirculate because it's counterproductive to bring in un-conditioned-air.

I might lose a few MPGs because of the AC's load on the engine, but it's worth every one of them!

My Mazda3 has a button to press to disengage the AC compressor, leaving the fan to drain the ducts of cool and dry air until it warms up again, and I find myself occasionally pushing it on-and-off when the temperature and humidity aren't too bad in a bid to save a few drops of fuel. Probably not worth the effort, but hope reins eternal.

The 2.0L engine doesn't seem to be very affected by the extra load of the AC, as I can't feel the compressor cycling, although I sometimes can hear the "click" as it cycles on-and-off when idling.
__________________
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to MeteorGray For This Useful Post:
EcoCivic (07-10-2021)
Old 07-10-2021, 08:21 PM   #38 (permalink)
It's all about Diesel
 
cRiPpLe_rOoStEr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil
Posts: 12,571
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1,627 Times in 1,452 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MeteorGray View Post
I live in hot-and-humid Louisiana and use the air conditioner for most of the year, always in recirculate because it's counterproductive to bring in un-conditioned-air.
My grandparents who live in Amazon do it too, yet I'm not sure if they keep it always in recirculate. My grandmother used to smoke, so once in a while I would see her driving with the A/C on and windows down while smoking
  Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2021, 08:28 PM   #39 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Memphis, Tn
Posts: 463
Thanks: 320
Thanked 107 Times in 81 Posts
Just taped off the exterior HVAC air intake on the cowl as an attempt to prevent hot outside air from getting forced into the cabin and it didn't work. With the fan off, air still comes in through either the vents or the interior HVAC intake behind the glovebox depending on whether recirculate is on or off. The amount seems to have been somewhat reduced though. Trying to figure out where air could be entering.
  Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2021, 09:32 AM   #40 (permalink)
Cyborg ECU
 
California98Civic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Coastal Southern California
Posts: 6,299

Black and Green - '98 Honda Civic DX Coupe
Team Honda
90 day: 66.42 mpg (US)

Black and Red - '00 Nashbar Custom built eBike
90 day: 3671.43 mpg (US)
Thanks: 2,373
Thanked 2,172 Times in 1,469 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by EcoCivic View Post
Just taped off the exterior HVAC air intake on the cowl as an attempt to prevent hot outside air from getting forced into the cabin and it didn't work. With the fan off, air still comes in through either the vents or the interior HVAC intake behind the glovebox depending on whether recirculate is on or off. The amount seems to have been somewhat reduced though. Trying to figure out where air could be entering.
On my Civic that air is not hot if I have the HVAC temp setting on the "cold" side. On the 6th Gen Civic, the temp selector cuts off the hot coolant from circulating into the heater core.

__________________
See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.



  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to California98Civic For This Useful Post:
EcoCivic (07-11-2021)
Reply  Post New Thread






Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com