03-13-2012, 10:46 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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A few times per tank I really open it up, a nice WOT scream up to 7500rpm on a highway on-ramp. Last time I had my engine open it was spotless, at ~75,000 miles.
EDIT: I'm not recommending you redline your engine at WOT, but rev it up a little occasionally, push some air through it.
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03-14-2012, 01:14 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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More info - LittleGreenCar has 350,000+ miles. A lot of this was stop and go rush hour traffic.
So, I'll go after the idea of hard carbon first, and attack that with Seafoam.
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03-14-2012, 01:39 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew63
More info - LittleGreenCar has 350,000+ miles. A lot of this was stop and go rush hour traffic.
So, I'll go after the idea of hard carbon first, and attack that with Seafoam.
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After the seafoam treatment, I would also pull off the EGR and check for blockage. I don't think seafoam can get to the EGR circut and clean it and with 350k miles, it might need a cleaning. Not long ago I was in O'Reilly's and they had seafoam on sale for ~$6.66/ can (buy 2 get one free).
Make sure you perform the treatment late at night, and/or well away from the city and any other groups of people. It causes a HUGE cloud behind the car, and it is not good for your health!
Of how my dad described the treatment, you will need some vaccume hoses and a "T" adapter. Hook up a vaccume hose to one of the ports on the throttal body to the T adapter, then from the T adapter to the can. Start the car (check if warm/cold start is ideal in the manual), and let it idle. Every so often, plug off the T adapter to make it suck in extra seafoam. When the can is nearly empty, plug off the T adapter and flood the engine (make it die). Let it sit for atleast 30 mins. Make sure you could change the spark plugs since this treatment does not do any good on them. Plug wires never hurt to change, but that depends how old yours are.
Lastly, let us know the results!
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03-14-2012, 02:05 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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I don't recommend flooding the engine, that's one of the few ways (only way?) Seafoam can cause any damage to an engine. Suck up too much at once and you risk hydrolock.
My reading suggests the following method:
Add half a can to the gas tank, slowly suck up the other half using a vacuum line (being careful not to kill the engine), and then shut off the car and let it sit 10-20 minutes. Start the car again and rev it up for a few minutes, and then take it for a drive, being generous with the throttle. Some say to put Seafoam in your oil at the start too, but I don't trust it. An oil change is recommended after Seafoaming.
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03-14-2012, 04:17 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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AeroGuy
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Looking at your mileage log, I think you have a bit of tune-up work to do. Driving the car easy should get you much more than 30 mpg.
I concur on checking the EGR system and cleaning that. Also take a look at PCV valve and the ignition system, along with simple things like the air filter and fuel filter. And can you tell if the cat has ever been changed?
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03-14-2012, 05:37 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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The method I said (from memory) was the instructions of a "kit" with seafoam. As for hydro-locking the engine, the kit used a flow limiter on the line from the can, so I'm pretty sure they designed it so you couldn't have too much go in to hydro-lock the engine, but enough to foul out the plugs.
Right on the product it says it can be used in the gas to clean the injectors, oil to clean the inner part of the engine, and of couse the vaccume system to clean the intake and cylenders.
Some good images: Seafoam - Mechanical Database
According to the site above, doing the same with water should work well too.
With 350k miles, I would be really careful with anything that cleans the engine oil areas, mainly since 350k miles worth of junk is built up, it could block oil pathways and kill the engine if they are cleaned and therefore put into the oil. On the flip side, if it has been treated within 100-150k miles ago, or the engine has always had high quality oil in it, go for the cleaning. This might be a really good thing for engines with sludging problems (newer toyota engines).
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03-14-2012, 08:39 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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Seafoam is fun but the neighbors tend to complain or call the fire department..... So i have heard.
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03-14-2012, 10:45 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky
My reading suggests the following method:
Add half a can to the gas tank, slowly suck up the other half using a vacuum line (being careful not to kill the engine), and then shut off the car and let it sit 10-20 minutes. Start the car again and rev it up for a few minutes, and then take it for a drive, being generous with the throttle. Some say to put Seafoam in your oil at the start too, but I don't trust it. An oil change is recommended after Seafoaming.
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Ok, picked up a can of Seafoam today and mixed a dose into the gas tank at manufacturer's recommended 1 oz per gallon, sort of. I figure I have about 4 gallons left, so I put in about 4 oz (1/4 of a container) by eye ball measure.
According to the label, I can "drive the engine clean." Hmmm, we'll have to see about that! I've got the remaining 12 oz stowed in the trunk and will dump the rest in with the next fill (approx 12 gallons).
I will keep the forum informed as to the result. I'll also get after some of the other ideas recommended. She had new plugs, gapped at 1 mm (spec), about a week ago. (pinging was before plug change).
Air filter is recent and still 'clean.' The LGC probably does need a fuel filter because I don't recall when I last did that, same with PCV and EGR system. An oil change is due in a few hundred miles, so I may delay that pending seafoam in the tank result. That way if I decide to use the vacuum method, I won't be dumping a fresh oil change.
Last edited by Andrew63; 03-14-2012 at 10:52 PM..
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03-15-2012, 07:36 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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Regarding carbon deposit building I wanted to share a story with you. My friend used to drive Opel Astra 1.4L 16V, and he used to be a very genttle on the throttle. After about 6 months of driving he started to have trouble with the dying engine. Mostly when it was idling at the stops it just suddenly died. Since car was still under warranty he went to the dealer shop and they checked whole engine. There was an old mechanic who said to my friend "You're driving too gentle, and probably most of the time it's a city driving". My friend confirmed. After that mechanic took apart the engine and showed to my friend all valves covered with a carbon. Then everything was cleaned and put back together, mechanic just drilled a bit valve guides, to loosen valves a bit. Because that was the reason for engine to die, carbon was blocking valves within guides and valves just ocasionally stayed opened a bit. No compression, no power.
As you can see carbon can cause very strange engine behavior.
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Gerhard Plattner: "The best attitude is to consider fuel saving a kind of sport. Everybody who has enough money for a strong car, can drive fast and hit the pedal. But saving fuel requires concentration, self-control and cleverness. It's a challenge with the nice effect of saving you money that you can use for other more important things."
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03-15-2012, 09:19 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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Pinging
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew63
I installed a partial grill block on the Little Green Car. Now I notice that there is pinging. I don't know why, but I didn't think that a grillblock would cause a Warm Air Intake effect and require a timing adjustment.
Is this in line with your experience with grill blocks?
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Sorry Andrew63,
Who are you aiming yr question?
Oldbeaver
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Mercedes 300 D turbo 1993
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